16mm T&E

[Leesparkykent]

If using a metal switch fuse then one of these Wiska Sprint IP68 Plastic Cable Gland LSF 32mm 10-16mm² Flat Cable Kit | QVS Electrical Wholesalers - http://www.qvsdirect.com/wiska-sprint-ip68-plastic-cable-gland-lsf-32mm-10-16mm-flat-cable-kit

 

[Dave OCD]

That's the one Will. It must be raining and hence not much to do where you are as well.

 

[Dave OCD]

If using a metal switch fuse then one of these Wiska Sprint IP68 Plastic Cable Gland LSF 32mm 10-16mm² Flat Cable Kit | QVS Electrical Wholesalers - http://www.qvsdirect.com/wiska-sprint-ip68-plastic-cable-gland-lsf-32mm-10-16mm-flat-cable-kit

I also found out you can [just] get a 16mm T&E through a 25mm gland Lee, all I had on board at the time...

 

[Toneyz]

Generally with 16mm t&e a separate 10mm is run for bonding and the CPC of the 16mm T&E is just that..... A circuit protective conductor.

I used a bit of 16mm T&E as a distribution circuit on a new build the other day due to aesthetics. I've had a separate meter box installed to house the switch fuse next to the actual meter box. I've run the cable up the wall internally through joists and down to the consumer unit. I've used a metal capping that the manufacturer states provides adequate protection from nails, screws and the likes of.

Reason I chose to use 16mm T&E over 16mm SWA is the consumer unit is installed on show in a utility room and an SWA glanded in top or bottom would look rubbish IMO.

So what do you do if the consumer unit is shown on plans on a stud or metal stud wall .The reason it was opted as swa was for this reason being c.u hight should be at part m hights (yes I know it is not directly under part M but part P) on a stud wall and this type of capping was not readaly available.

 

[LankyWill]

That's the one Will. It must be raining and hence not much to do where you are as well.

I worked the night shift last night mate, been using it as an excuse for not finishing the garden project today

 

[LankyWill]

So what do you do if the consumer unit is shown on plans on a stud or metal stud wall .The reason it was opted as swa was for this reason being c.u hight should be at part m hights (yes I know it is not directly under part M but part P) on a stud wall and this type of capping was not readaly available.

on a stud wall(metal or wood) use metal copex and slap a bonding clamp just behind the fuseboard....

 

[Leesparkykent]

So what do you do if the consumer unit is shown on plans on a stud or metal stud wall .The reason it was opted as swa was for this reason being c.u hight should be at part m hights (yes I know it is not directly under part M but part P) on a stud wall and this type of capping was not readaly available.

If the stud wall is made of metal then you've got to satisfy the requirements of 522.6.203. IMO the easiest option would be then to use SWA. If the stud wall is made of wood and you can install the cable deeper than 50mm (if stud wall is thicker than 100mm to the revearse side) then T&E can be used without any additional protection. If you can't achieve a depth of more than 50mm then you've got to meet the requirements of 522.6.203 (i) or 522.6.204 and 522.6.202 .

 

[Midwest]

New houses have sub-dist circuits wired like this for years.

I suppose that would depend on the calculated or selected csa of the protective conductor. Although I note 543.2.1 says a protective conductor may consist of one or more of the following.....

Might be just one of those 'good or poor practise' myths, then?

 

[bigspark17]

If the stud wall is made of metal then you've got to satisfy the requirements of 522.6.203. IMO the easiest option would be then to use SWA. If the stud wall is made of wood and you can install the cable deeper than 50mm (if stud wall is thicker than 100mm to the revearse side) then T&E can be used without any additional protection. If you can't achieve a depth of more than 50mm then you've got to meet the requirements of 522.6.203 (i) or 522.6.204 and 522.6.202 .

Lee how would you feel about using swa and not mechanically terminating it into the db but float it into the back when coming down a stud wall, glanded at supply end and bangod at supply end? Not best practice maybe but i do like swa used in such instances rather than pvc 16mm t&e & tails.

 

[Midwest]

As an aside, I note that 16mm 6242y cable only has a ccc of 85amp only when clipped direct 'C' (Table 4D5).

Just wonder how that method is achieved in a modern built house? Not suggestion incorrect installation here, but for another thread I found the IET suggested installation above a ceiling was method A, so I thought in an in-insulated stud wall would be similar?

 

[mattg4321]

Generally with 16mm t&e a separate 10mm is run for bonding and the CPC of the 16mm T&E is just that..... A circuit protective conductor.

I used a bit of 16mm T&E as a distribution circuit on a new build the other day due to aesthetics. I've had a separate meter box installed to house the switch fuse next to the actual meter box. I've run the cable up the wall internally through joists and down to the consumer unit. I've used a metal capping that the manufacturer states provides adequate protection from nails, screws and the likes of.

Reason I chose to use 16mm T&E over 16mm SWA is the consumer unit is installed on show in a utility room and an SWA glanded in top or bottom would look rubbish IMO.

Any links to this metal capping Lee? Would it stop an sds drill in your opinion?

I generally prefer to use SWA, especially as the CCC is greater too. In your situation I have installed a galv adaptable box at first fix stage, fixed at a suitable depth into the wall so its roughly flush with the finished plaster surface. With the SWA glanded into this, at second fix all you have to do is take the lid off and screw the CU over the top.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Any links to this metal capping Lee? Would it stop an sds drill in your opinion?

I generally prefer to use SWA, especially as the CCC is greater too. In your situation I have installed a galv adaptable box at first fix stage, fixed at a suitable depth into the wall so its roughly flush with the finished plaster surface. With the SWA glanded into this, at second fix all you have to do is take the lid off and screw the CU over the top.

Just had full rewire done, cables very close to surface or coming through skim - http://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/threads/just-had-full-rewire-done-cables-very-close-to-surface-or-coming-through-skim.117855/page-4#post-1235074

 

[Toneyz]

Any links to this metal capping Lee? Would it stop an sds drill in your opinion?

I generally prefer to use SWA, especially as the CCC is greater too. In your situation I have installed a galv adaptable box at first fix stage, fixed at a suitable depth into the wall so its roughly flush with the finished plaster surface. With the SWA glanded into this, at second fix all you have to do is take the lid off and screw the CU over the top.

This is how we used to do it as I said in post before the capping was not readly available ( off shelf) at wholesalers