Advice on PAT testing of old lights

[john777]

Hello everyone this is my first post
I have recently acquired some old lights which were marked "pat test failed", so I want to get them to the stage where they can pass a PAT test.
The lights date to around the thirties they have double coil wire with a single sheath (not double insulated). The bulb holders are plastic in the inside but the bit that holds the bulbs are brass
So firstly would it be these old elements that caused the PAT test to fail. If so I would like to try and replace these and then get it re-PAT tested by a qualified electrician.
So what I was thinking was to replace the wiring with modern double insulated wire and the bulb holders with modern wholly plastic ones (unless it is possible to get metal ones which meet the appropriate safety standards)
Secondly would it need to be three coil wire with an earth and if so where does the light end of the earth terminate - does it need to be connected to the metal body of the lamp.
Thirdly one of the lights is a three arm chandelier. So there is one set of wires going in and three coming out. This must mean there is a join somewhere so what is the correct way to form the join so it is safe.
I know would be easier to take to electrician for re-wiring but as I make much of my living selling old stuff I have to keep costs down.
All advice greatly apprecialted

 

[Marvo]

Welcome to the forum John.

It would help enormously if we could see a few phots of the fittings, maybe you could take some and attach the here for us. I've given you full user permissions should you should be able to add photos to your next post as long as the filesize isn't too large.

 

[TJ Anderson]

Hello everyone this is my first post
I have recently acquired some old lights which were marked "pat test failed", so I want to get them to the stage where they can pass a PAT test.
The lights date to around the thirties they have double coil wire with a single sheath (not double insulated). The bulb holders are plastic in the inside but the bit that holds the bulbs are brass
So firstly would it be these old elements that caused the PAT test to fail. If so I would like to try and replace these and then get it re-PAT tested by a qualified electrician.
So what I was thinking was to replace the wiring with modern double insulated wire and the bulb holders with modern wholly plastic ones (unless it is possible to get metal ones which meet the appropriate safety standards)
Secondly would it need to be three coil wire with an earth and if so where does the light end of the earth terminate - does it need to be connected to the metal body of the lamp.
Thirdly one of the lights is a three arm chandelier. So there is one set of wires going in and three coming out. This must mean there is a join somewhere so what is the correct way to form the join so it is safe.
I know would be easier to take to electrician for re-wiring but as I make much of my living selling old stuff I have to keep costs down.
All advice greatly apprecialted

The PAT is a simple safety insp / test. It consists of visual inspection for damage, correct fuse etc, earth continuity test (only if Class 1, not applicable if Class 2) and an insulation resistance test. You could just rewire them yourself and get it PAT again.

 

[john777]

Hi all
I have posted some pictures of the lights below as per last request
They are part metal and part bakelite which I believe is a good insulator.
So to reiterate
Should I change the wire or the wire and tbe bulb holders
If I change the wire should it be earth neutral and live or can it be neutral and live only but double insulated
Also how do I deal with the join in the chandelier which has three arms coming off of a single wire
Many thanks for reading

 

[leroy989]

They don't need pat testing, they are a fixed appliance, ie hanging from the ceiling/wall. You could wire the middle one to a plug but I would use a supply from a fixed wire source.
as for rewire, the connection is probably in the bottom part where the lamps are attached to the pole.

 

[Adam W]

They don't need pat testing, they are a fixed appliance, ie hanging from the ceiling/wall. You could wire the middle one to a plug but I would use a supply from a fixed wire source.
as for rewire, the connection is probably in the bottom part where the lamps are attached to the pole.

Where in the In Service Inspection & Testing of Electrical Equipment code of practice does it say that?

 

[leroy989]

Would you disconnect your lights and pat test them?

 

[ruston]

And he is selling them, so they aren't hanging anywhere. If this was hanging you would still give it a similar test for earth continuity etc.

 

[leroy989]

Yes I agree but that's under periodic testing.

 

[Adam W]

Would you disconnect your lights and pat test them?

That isn't what's happening here.
Some lights which were originally made in the 1930s have been reconditioned with a view to selling them. If I bought a light fitting I would expect it to have been tested.

 

[leroy989]

Fair point. I see what your saying.

 

[kenuk]

The PAT is a simple safety insp / test. It consists of visual inspection for damage, correct fuse etc, earth continuity test (only if Class 1, not applicable if Class 2) and an insulation resistance test. You could just rewire them yourself and get it PAT again.

If you do that, you become a manufacturer surely and have to run production tests etc.

 

[kenuk]

And he is selling them, so they aren't hanging anywhere. If this was hanging you would still give it a similar test for earth continuity etc.

Selling items imposes lots of problems, you are putting the item on the market, so you have to ensure it is safe and complies with all legislation where applicable.