Best tester for new electrician

[Pat H]

Just finishing training and about to take exams. Have years of experience but formalising for part P.

So whats the best low cost starting out it.
I'd love a megger 1720 but can't stretch to that. So what do people suggest?

 

[telectrix]

1552 or 1553.

 

[ruston]

Or a good set of Megger second hand separates until you get on your feet.
The older one are just about bullet proof. And very cheap.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

Metrel.
Can get a new one for the price of a second hand Megger.

 

[The Ghost]

You could look at kewtech KT63 very nifty. And if you can get someone to buy it thats VAT registered you can get 20% off. Plus on here you can get a further 5% off.

 

[haptism]

Find a decent second hand one thats easy to use, I got a Megger 1552

 

[telectrix]

Find a decent second hand one thats easy to use, I got a Megger 1552

how are you getting on with it?

 

[haptism]

how are you getting on with it?

I had to get the switch repaired so probably paid a little bit more than what I should have, but its a great tester although the megger carry cases are **ite

 

[telectrix]

mine lives in an aluminium camera case. as you say, the megger cases are pants.my megger case has been relegated to housing my multimaster tool.

 

[haptism]

If you go for a megger, the Kewtech leads are better imo because you can use on Kewtech accessories !

 

[LectriCare Ian]

Hi Pat H. I'm an independent 'repair and calibration person' and my view is that the Fluke 1650 series is the best modern multifunction tester of those I've seen. The service manual is in the public domain so they should be repairable by any competent provider. All the electronic components can be bought from suppliers such as RS, Farnell and CPC. Only a broken LCD or severe battery corrosion should right-off a Fluke. The microprocessor(s) can be replaced if damaged and the firmware reloaded. This is not true of the Megger 1500 series and I have a box full of MFT1502, 1502/2's, 1552's and even a 1553 that have faulty microprocessors. These testers can only be repaired by Megger and for what they charge it is simply not worthwhile. Even approved service centres do not have the firmware and unlike the Flukes it cannot be copied from a working unit. Early Flukes got a bad reputation due to being supplied with flimsy test leads - I fit replacement high quality cables and 4mm plugs to the older probes in this case. There is also a problem with them losing their calibration settings but a backup copy can be made and easily reloaded. This problem can be avoided by not allowing the batteries to leak and replacing the holder if they do, plus always using good quality batteries in the first place. Most multifunction testers will measure Voltage and perform Insulation, Continuity and RCD tests ok, it's the performance of the Loop Test function that, for me, determines a good or bad tester. Low current (No trip) Loop readings are often not 'repeatable', with successive readings varying wildly and making full use of the accuracy percentage given in the specification. Flukes give reasonably repeatable readings if the terminals, test leads (and the socket being tested) are in good, clean, tight condition. I've worked on some of the older Metrels and just one of the newer ones. They're ok but difficult to adjust if out of spec. The push buttons sometimes need to be replaced on the older models. I hope this helps.

 

[ruston]

A lot of food for thought there . Thanks.

 

[Dan]

Have a word with @Test-Meter

You get a forum discount.

 

[LectriCare Ian]

A lot of food for thought there . Thanks.

You're welcome. I know that some other members will disagree because Flukes' after sales service seems to vary, with some buyers being given new test leads and having their problems sorted for a reasonable calibration charge whereas others have been quoted hundreds of Pounds (and even a £90 fee to return a tester unrepaired when a quote for repair was not accepted!). I also have opinions on 'separates' and PAT testers etc. I've not seen and worked on every possible tester of course and I realise that whether a particular tester is likely to be easy or tricky to repair may not be a major influence on users' purchasing choices. However, repair is always followed by calibration and this process of taking measurements is very similar to the way a tester is used on site - except of course that I know what the correct reading should be and the process is usually much more straightforward for a particular make and model of tester that is known to produce consistently repeatable and accurate results. For those meters that don't perform in this ideal way but aren't actually faulty because 'they're all like that sir' calibration becomes more complicated. Sometimes it is necessary to take 10 or more readings at the same test value, verify that they're all within spec. and then take an average or choose the most commonly seen result to put onto the certificate.

 

[Pat H]

Thanks. I'd heard good things about the Fluke but its as expensive as a megger.
So I'll keep looking for a decent used unit.

 

[LectriCare Ian]

Here's a tip, look for a nice Fluke 1651.The 1651 is the cheaper 'entry level' model often bought 'just to pass the exams' so there are some really nice ones out there. It does not have the 'Auto' function or 'Rising Ramp' test found on the mid range 1652. Both of these are part of the RCD testing section and are well worth having. 'Auto mode' means that you can work through the 6 RCD tests (1/2I,I and 5I each at 0 and 180 degrees) without having to return to the tester each time. You stay at the distribution board and reset the RCD each time it trips. The test results are stored and can be scrolled through once the test is complete. The rising ramp test is useful for fault finding since it shows the actual current flowing when the RCD tripped. A 1651 can very easily be upgraded to 1652 spec.

 

[Pat H]

Thanks the 1651 looks ok and are going for a few hundred pounds. Seems a good place to start.

 

[PEG]

The difference,in cost, between some second hand units,and some of the higher end older models,is a lot less than it was.

The 1720 cost has been displaced by the new model range,and i wouldn't mind betting,the difference between one of these,and what you would spend on a lesser,older model,is only a portion of the value of the mobile device you own!

Admittedly,i would sooner spend on kit,than owt else,other than family...but my missus has a pal that give £600 for a handbag,and no one threw fruit at her...

Save a bit more,and get what you want.

You will be happier,and more inclined to "love" your device,and learn it's every function.

One enjoys one's food more,with one's favourite spoon...as against the spoon you borrowed off a tramp...

 

[ruston]

The difference,in cost, between some second hand units,and some of the higher end older models,is a lot less than it was.

The 1720 cost has been displaced by the new model range,and i wouldn't mind betting,the difference between one of these,and what you would spend on a lesser,older model,is only a portion of the value of the mobile device you own!

Admittedly,i would sooner spend on kit,than owt else,other than family...but my missus has a pal that give £600 for a handbag,and no one threw fruit at her...

Save a bit more,and get what you want.

You will be happier,and more inclined to "love" your device,and learn it's every function.

One enjoys one's food more,with one's favourite spoon...as against the spoon you borrowed off a tramp...

As eloquent as ever . You have made a good point though.
Respecting kit is the mark of a good workman.

 

[Pat H]

Normally I'd agree but doing without kit while you save isn't always best.
Sometimes its better to buy once loved older kit while you build up wirk and funds. Then invest in a newer more modern model and keep the older one as a spare.