Cooker Hood Problem

[Derek Morrison]

Hi Guys...I'm new to the forum so Hello all.
I have a Lamona cooker hood problem. Let me explain... Cooker hood fan not working. Fuse had blown in plug suggesting a problem with the actual motor but further investigation (bench test). Found capacitor to be ok. Wasn't sure about motor. Tried new controller, which customer had already bought, still nada, although all switches working.
Ordered new motor and wired up as per previous wiring. I did think of the possibility of a hidden micro switch but can't see any extra wiring so I would say no to a micro switch unless anyone else can suggest otherwise. Still nothing. Capacitor is ok also. I have looked over wiring and when I connect the Motor Brown into mains as it was before, there seems to be voltage on the Motor Red, Black and Blue. This would mean it back feeding to the controller I think.
The wiring I have is....
Motor(M) Brown - Live - Controller(C) Purple
Neutral - (C) White , (also hooked into lights)
(M) Black - (C) Black
(M) Red - (C) Red
(M) Blue - (C) Blue
(C) Brown - Lights live
Capacitor - comes hooked up from manufacturer.
All windings of new motor seem intact between red, black and blue.
Anyone help me on this. Would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[bigspark17]

Yes youve missed a very simple way to rectify this problem which is very common... buy a new cooker hood!!

 

[Derek Morrison]

Yes youve missed a very simple way to rectify this problem which is very common... buy a new cooker hood!!

Hi....Agreed, I did suggest that at the time but the customer had already went and bought controller and had it out of packaging so he had started going down the path which has led to this. Controller was £45 and Motor was £70. New cooker hood...£250-£300 I think. I am sure I will get it to work....with a little help from my friends. lol

 

[mattg4321]

Lamona is absolute garbage IMO.

 

[Derek Morrison]

Lamona is absolute garbage IMO.

Not had much to do with cooker hoods but as I can see, when problems start better off with a new one. Cheers

 

[hightower]

Hi....Agreed, I did suggest that at the time but the customer had already went and bought controller and had it out of packaging so he had started going down the path which has led to this. Controller was £45 and Motor was £70. New cooker hood...£250-£300 I think. I am sure I will get it to work....with a little help from my friends. lol

I hope you can get it to work, but isn't it a false economy? So you spend a day fault finding/fixing it which might cost an average of £150-£200. Or you can spend £300 on a new hood and have a brand new product with warranty.

I think I'd have strongly advised the customer to buy new before walking away. Now even if you do fix it, you're going to have a guarantee to honour too - sounds more trouble than it's worth.

 

[Derek Morrison]

I hope you can get it to work, but isn't it a false economy? So you spend a day fault finding/fixing it which might cost an average of £150-£200. Or you can spend £300 on a new hood and have a brand new product with warranty.

I think I'd have strongly advised the customer to buy new before walking away. Now even if you do fix it, you're going to have a guarantee to honour too - sounds more trouble than it's worth.

Yes totally correct. Can't agree more. The customer is a friend so he knows the score. If he had only asked first before he'd bought new controller but I think he had asked someone and they had said "ah that must be a controller issue... we have one for £45". Along those lines anyway. Never mind, every day's a school day.

 

[westward10]

You need to eliminate the reason for the fuse blowing, overload or fault current. Are there any other internal fuses.

 

[Derek Morrison]

You need to eliminate the reason for the fuse blowing, overload or fault current. Are there any other internal fuses.

Hi Westward. I had power to controller ....not connected to motor, and all switches fire there outputs which suggest no internal fuse problems with the controller. It's a new motor and controller so can't think of anywhere else that would have a fuse blown. The original problem was a blown fuse at the Fuse spur outlet but now with new components cant think of anything other than wiring but I just replaced it the way the original was.

 

[westward10]

Have you tried a bench run with the new motor.

 

[Derek Morrison]

Have you tried a bench run with the new motor.

Yes...tried bench run with new motor and new controller.

 

[westward10]

Yes...tried bench run with new motor and new controller.

And does it run.

 

[bigspark17]

Im guessing not :/

 

[Derek Morrison]

Im guessing not :/

....Hence the thread

 

[Wilko]

Hi Derek and Welcome to the Forum !
Can I ask what size was the fuse that blew? Was it replaced and blew again? Sorry, just starter dumb questions. Do the lights still work? Probably it's in a million pieces just now I guess.
Edit - just reread OP so modified q.

 

[westward10]

Delete.

 

[PEG]

Hi,has the motor got speed control,and is this achieved via the controller itself?

 

[Derek Morrison]

Hi Derek and Welcome to the Forum !
Can I ask what size was the fuse that blew? Was it replaced and blew again? Sorry, just starter dumb questions. Do the lights still work? Probably it's in a million pieces just now I guess.
Edit - just reread OP so modified q.

Hi - The fuse which blew was a 3A. I said earlier it was a Fused spur but it was a plug and socket so the 3A fuse was in plug. I replaced and this never blew again. The lights work via the controller. The controller also provides speed control. 3 output speeds. The windings of the motor seem intact as I have measured between what I think to be the windings. The readings pretty much double then treble.Capacitor is healthy(tested). Tried testing separately motor and controller. When switching each output speed, a voltage 240Vac could be seen at each output wire of controller (red, black, blue to neutral). When connecting brown of motor to mains L, which is where I believe it has to be wired to, the other windings (wires from motor, Red, Black, Blue) all seem to have a voltage on them when separate from controller. Would this be backfeeding to the outputs of the controller? If so then the brown wire which I believed to be permanently live may not be the case. I just wired it as it had been before so assumed this to be correct.

 

[Wilko]

Ok, got it
With the fuse now not blowing, it may be the short(ish) circuit has removed itself, possibly by a track somewhere melting and leaving on open circuit? All of that stuff is likely in the controller and speed switch and that's now new, I think. That leaves the motor as a suspect perhaps?
Edit : another dumb one, sorry, have you confirmed the fuse in the spur still intact?

 

[Derek Morrison]

Hi Wilko
The controller and motor are both new now. The fuse is in a plug which plugs into a socket in the roof space directly above cooker hood, which has not blown. At present its in bits where I can bench test. Just doesnt work. The only thing which works via the controller is the lights. When I push button for lights, that works. When I push button for speed 1 - controller light latches on, speed 2 - same, speed 3 same.....just motor no turning. Wiring is easy, colour to colour apart from purple which goes to controller is the main live. Capcitor is ok. There doesn't seem to be a micro. The windings of the motor still seem intact. Just doesn't want to turn. Doesn't even make a sound.