Crimping 10mm2 Cable

[charlie76]

I need to extend a supply to and oven and the customer has had all the kitchen tiled recently so I didnt really want to suggest chopping it all out and running in new.

I feel a little bit uncomfortable about crimping it but i don't see much other option. Looking at using through crimp lugs and sleeving it, perhaps double sleeving it.

Is this satisfactory or does anyone have other tips they could offer.

 

[Andy78]

Copper crimp double heatshrinked up. You could put the finished joint in an enclosure, finish with SA tape, or even a resin torpedo if you fancied

 

[amlu]

solder if you have suitable soldering iron.

 

[LankyWill]

andys suggestions is the best option i reckon. Self amalgamating tape is seriously underrated, dont be tempted to use black tape.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Crimping and heatshrinking is easy and produces excellent robust connections, provided that you use good quality materials correctly fitted. Don't be tempted by wholesalers' bargain bucket crimps or no-name items bought at an autojumble. Use a proper recognised brand like Klauke or AMP with a matching tool or at the very least the exact hexagon size specified. Same with the heatshrink, don't use the crapola they sell for colour identing cables. Go for Raychem / 3M / Hellermann etc, preferably medium or heavy-wall, sized so that it shrinks significantly but isn't fully recovered by the time it hits the joint. Adhesive lined 3:1 is a good option. Check the joint for burrs, preheat it so that the sleeving doesn't stop shrinking when it hits cold metal, work along from one end so that there are no bubbles. The result should be tougher than the original cable insulation.

 

[Rpa07]

Great advice Lucien - as usual. That's the kind of advice that you only need to hear once to change your working practice. That's why it's good to have a forum. Thanks

 

[HandySparks]

How much space is there for a cable joint? If loads of space, and accessible, I just use an ordinary 60A junction box.

 

[charlie76]

Thanks Lucien, some food for thought there.

HandySparks, not a lot, there is literally 2 inch from the feed and 2 inch on the load side coming out the wall, plastered in, its ridiculous. Just to add insult to injury its inside a 300mm wide wall cupboard down the bottom left hand side of it so its an absolute pig to work on. I'm thinking a nice deep surface box, crimp and shrink wrap the joints into the back box and new oven switch on the front. I was hoping Wago had a solution but they seem to stop at 4mm 24A rated connectors.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Wago actually go up to 6mm² rated for 41A - only in a 3-way - stock No. 773-173.
Where the cables are really short or difficult to pull into a workable position, provided there is enough for the two to overlap by about 15mm, Legrand line-taps e.g. 0-340-42 can offer a solution. The benefit is the open slot like the terminals in a traditional round bakelite junction box, but it's a much more substantial affair where the cap screws onto a large thread on the outside of the cup using a socket set or spanner, and there is a proper clamping bar that does not rotate as you screw it shut. See http://docdif.fr.grpleg.com/general/legrand-exp/CEXP2012-13/ex212001_617.pdf

 

[Midwest]

Thanks Lucien, some food for thought there.

HandySparks, not a lot, there is literally 2 inch from the feed and 2 inch on the load side coming out the wall, plastered in, its ridiculous. Just to add insult to injury its inside a 300mm wide wall cupboard down the bottom left hand side of it so its an absolute pig to work on. I'm thinking a nice deep surface box, crimp and shrink wrap the joints into the back box and new oven switch on the front. I was hoping Wago had a solution but they seem to stop at 4mm 24A rated connectors.

If twas me, not withstanding the good advice re crimping; I would be getting the wall unit removed. This would probably give more slack cable and better access to use a 60amp joint box (the in-line one). Fix JB to wall, replace wall unit with a section of rear panel removed to allow access to the joint for inspection & testing. Just a thought.

PS, just reread the bit about 'oven switch', are you not able to replace part of damaged cable?