Downlights

[StevieTee]

Folks,

Sunday afternoon chilling and having a little thought to myself about the jobs ahead this week. I got thinking, I have a job this week invloving downlights. Simple job really, but thought I would see how everyone else does it.

When I do downlights, it's a 1.5mm T+E to the lighting points, then from each point I install 20A 3 pin push junction box with a 1mm flex comming from the juction box to the downlight itself.

I do it like this because I think it looks good. But curiosity got the better of me, how do you guys install downlights? I get fed up of turning up to jobs and seeing two 1.5mm stuffed straight into the horrble connector blocks that come with the downlights. Never really seen any other methods that I can think of the now.

 

[stevethesparks]

I like to pre wire mine at floor level then attach them using Wago Lite boxes along with their 224 light connectors

 

[NDG Elecs]

I do similar with the wago or line enclosures. Depends on the fittings, as some of the more expensive do have a loop out on them. And yeah, I don't like the technique of stuffing two T&E in to the crappy connectors often attached. Other than that if it's just say four lights I would probably use five terminal Wagos and fan out from there.

Edit: and as Steve says above, can sit down and prewire in comfort with a cuppa!

 

[Leesparkykent]

Click flow connectors. So you can lamp them up etc, carry out testing then plug them in and push them up.

 

[StevieTee]

Started using the Wago's more and more now.

Lee thats my method too.

Was a curiosity question lads. Hate seeing the 2 cables stuffed into those connectors blocks. They are terrible. Sitting down and prewiring first always goes better with a cuppa....when I get offered one. Seem to have hit a stretch of customers that think I am out there to rob them.

 

[Vitesse]

I've used click flow connectors in the past on new installs, as others have said its nice to prewire everything whilst sitting down and having a cuppa.

When I do halogen to GU10 LED conversions, I use what Steve says, the Wago light box and 224 connectors. It so much easier, quicker and less fiddly when up a ladder. Good little boxes and plenty of room for two T&E's in the cable grips.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Folks,

Sunday afternoon chilling and having a little thought to myself about the jobs ahead this week. I got thinking, I have a job this week invloving downlights. Simple job really, but thought I would see how everyone else does it.

When I do downlights, it's a 1.5mm T+E to the lighting points, then from each point I install 20A 3 pin push junction box with a 1mm flex comming from the juction box to the downlight itself.

I do it like this because I think it looks good. But curiosity got the better of me, how do you guys install downlights? I get fed up of turning up to jobs and seeing two 1.5mm stuffed straight into the horrble connector blocks that come with the downlights. Never really seen any other methods that I can think of the now.

I would do it in a very similar fashion to you. The only difference is that I use 1mm as I think 6A is plenty for a lighting circuit (usually) and I use heat resistant flex rather than standard, for that one in a thousand time when the cable ends up resting on the halogen lamp that has been used to replace the LED.

I use wagoboxes with a 3 way lever terminal as it's MF, however I've just started to use the line boxes (the ones that look like grenades) sometimes if they are located in the loft. I'm not sure if they have been tested or approved as MF yet so haven't used them for under floorboards.

I have to admit I have sometimes (when rushed) terminated the last one in T&E as its only one cable entering the enclosure on the downlight. Always feel a bit bad though!!

 

[Andy78]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with taking 2 twin and earth cables into a downlight that has been designed for this purpose. It's only the poor quality ones where this becomes a possibly unsafe issue as they tend to be designed to take a 0.75mm flex and not much more.

I also use line boxes and have used click flows in the past, only when it's been needed though.

 

[StevieTee]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with taking 2 twin and earth cables into a downlight that has been designed for this purpose. It's only the poor quality ones where this becomes a possibly unsafe issue as they tend to be designed to take a 0.75mm flex and not much more.

I also use line boxes and have used click flows in the past, only when it's been needed though.

I think if you read over my initial post again you will see I never once said there was anything wrong with. What I did say was I hate seeing it, because the connector block is rubbish and only made for smaller flex.

 

[Leesparkykent]

The flow connectors is how we usually do it on new builds. Recently completed a block of 19 flats of exactly the same layout, so 1st fix, mid fix which consists of cutting out for dry line boxes, mounting CCU and glanding SWA, cutting out down lights and terminating them in to the flow connectors. Makes second fix an absolute doddle as get the apprentice flexing the down lights up and putting the connectors on before hand.

 

[Andy78]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with taking 2 twin and earth cables into a downlight that has been designed for this purpose. It's only the poor quality ones where this becomes a possibly unsafe issue as they tend to be designed to take a 0.75mm flex and not much more.

I also use line boxes and have used click flows in the past, only when it's been needed though.

I think if you read over my initial post again you will see I never once said there was anything wrong with. What I did say was I hate seeing it, because the connector block is rubbish and only made for smaller flex.

Yep I appreciate that. I was just saying that not all downlights have rubbish connector blocks and connection enclosures, just the rubbish ones.

 

[StevieTee]

Yep I appreciate that. I was just saying that not all downlights have rubbish connector blocks and connection enclosures, just the rubbish ones.

I totally agree with you. The rubbish cheap ones are nasty.

Lee, I don't have an apprentice working for me, so I have the privilege of flexing up myself. Could do with geting one I suppose.

 

[Leesparkykent]

I totally agree with you. The rubbish cheap ones are nasty.

Lee, I don't have an apprentice working for me, so I have the privilege of flexing up myself. Could do with geting one I suppose.

I might even try the wago lite boxes and 224-112 connectors next as I imagine these would even save more time.

 

[StevieTee]

I might even try the wago lite boxes and 224-112 connectors next as I imagine these would even save more time.

I was thinking the exact same thing. Might give it a bash on the job I've got this week.

 

[Andy78]

I can vouch for the wagobox lite being a really good product for this application amongst others. Almost as good as the line box.

It's a whole load better than the large wagobox which is awkward in most situations due to the single entry point.

 

[murray2707]

2x 1.5 t&e in and out of ansell Icage works fine for me, if you have a joint with feeds etc then it's a hager501

 

[Dave OCD]

95% of the time I use Ansell Orbio 360 downlights now which are supplied with a connector pretty much identical to the 2 part Click flow connectors so it makes for a straightforward install. When extending from a loop in circuit in a loft space I like to use the small 65mm square Schneider grey boxes with Ideal 'in sure' connectors inside. Those boxes are very handy as IP55 rated which is also good for connecting pre-flexed LED floods outside. As someone else said though it's daft to use 1.5 for LED installations, just a waste of money and makes the job that much more fiddly IMO.

 

[Welchyboy1]

Why on earth would anybody use 1.5mm for domestic lighting circuits nowadays, what a waste of money, like using 4mm standard for ring mains

my pet hate!

 

[GETWIRED]

Why on earth would anybody use 1.5mm for domestic lighting circuits nowadays, what a waste of money, like using 4mm standard for ring mains

my pet hate!

1.5mm is my personal preference just because i prefere how it terminates, got me thinking now though...

 

[Dave OCD]

1.5mm is my personal preference just because i prefere how it terminates, got me thinking now though...

If you want a really sound connection on a single 1mm termination just double the end over.