Discuss Drilling down stud wall in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Richard Burns

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Totally fed up with this one.
Any thoughts on hole drilling to run cable down a stud wall, I cannot get a straight line through.
I am trying to run cable from the loft down to the CU in the hall.
I have drilled down 1.7m and can take the drill bit up 1.7m and the total height is about 3m.
I have run cable rod up 6m! and should be out through the roof, but I cannot see the rod at the top.
Rodding down I hit something just below the last down drilled hole.
What am I doing wrong (apart from not drilling the holes by taking out the plasterboard at noggins)?
Any thoughts on wall construction, etc.
Thank you!
drilling stud wall.jpg
 
cut a section of board out from top down to CU, across 2 studs. after cables are in, re board and skim.
 
In that case, you might have to contact a surgeon and borrow one of those pieces of apparatus with a camera and light on the end. And you'll still probably have to find a drilling attachment.lol.
 
One of these would possibly make it easier,not that I own one because its use would be once in a blue moon
CS-AMG2 - HELLERMANN TYTON - CABLE ROD, STRONG MAGNET | Farnell United Kingdom

I would tape a flexible band wire on the rod ,send the 2 down as far as possible (enough to hook out at the bottom )get the coat hanger out and woe and behold,yet another awkward route that hasn't beaten me :drool5:

Ipf yes just looking at drilling attachments, perhaps two 1.3 m flexible drive shafts linked together!! Should be easy!

Des, interestingly the magnets stick to a lot of the nails in the wall and make it a nightmare, however I still can't find the rod, can't even find the 19mm auger bit lost in the wall!
 
Customer does not want to damage the decorations!!
However, they need that cable run?
Sometimes damage to decor can only be avoided by a long and laborious cable run which may have a detrimental effect on the Zs of the circuit in question. I'd be having a talk to the client mate and telling them what the options are but maybe, just maybe you can carefully cut out the plasterboard where the noggins are to give you the route you want without too much damage
 
Always give the customer 2 options...

1) There will be damage to decor, but the cable will be hidden.

2) No damage to decor using surface mount trunking.

If they want you to spend ages trying every trick in the book to achieve internal wall surgery, then make sure they are willing to pay.
 
I remember being on a job were we were trying to get a cable through stud walling. The old boy had put his bit of steel wire, bent at the end in one hole and I was at the other trying to catch it.

I was getting wild as I couldn't thread it through, He came up and put a bit of underlay fluff around the hole making it look like pubic hair. It was blooming amazing, I got it first time after that! It still makes me chuckle whenever I have to get cable through stud walls.
 
you are trying to attempt the impossible its very rare this being succeded without cutting the pasterboard, you could have another noggin in the way etc
just thinking which is cheaper for your customer, your time trying to achieve this OR cutting holes and plaster patch
 
Well went back today and finished that job now, ripped out the plasterboard in the loft. Found it goes straight down to CU, also found out the wall is not terminated at the end and could go round the end of the wall and then in and down.
Cable run, shower working.

Thanks for your help and advice, glad that one is out of the way!

Probably should put this in faults as well since the 9.5kW shower had been installed using 4mm from shower to isolator, 6mm from isolator to a cooker control unit(with socket)?, 2.5mm to spur into the immersion heater 16A radial.
Oddly the shower kept tripping!
 
Balls to the customer, be a man, tell em how it is..."If ya want the frickin cable you gotta paint the frickin wall" personally I just smash a little bit of plasterboard out over each stud and loop the cable over, clip it, bit of filler, Daves yer uncle.

Biggest mistake my old gaffer used to make (3rd post Ive mentioned him in in the last 5 mins) was tell clients that anything could be done and spend hours trying to live up to it, and not making any money and going bankrupt....but thats another story....
 
I often use a 4" holesaw to make a hole, they normally fix back in on a batten very well and easy to fill and repair.
 
I had to do this today...get an extra pair of sockets installed onto an internal wall on a vapour membrane construction. So that's 80mm of plaster/foam board, then batten, then the (not to be touched) membrane.... and it was holesaw to the rescue!
 

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