Discuss GU10 LED downlighters in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi guys.

Got a client that wants to change their 'low voltage' MR16 35W lamps to mains GU10 5W LED.

The apartment is in a multi-storey block and above the plasterboard ceiling is a concrete ceiling so the floor to the upstairs flat.

They currently don't have fire rated fittings and don't want to go with the added expense of fire rated cans. I see the Part P regs doesn't required fire rated fittings in a house but not sure where I stand on the Part P in this particular situation.

Can I get away with just changing lamp holders to GU10 LED and not use fire rated fittings in this instance without breaking any regs?

Best to check.

Cheers
 
Exactly my thoughts and a LED lamp is hardly giving off any kind of heat. Just want to follow regs as close as I can. I don't have a picture but there a void of approx 10 inches between the plasterboard and concrete - without insulation
 
Exactly my thoughts and a LED lamp is hardly giving off any kind of heat. Just want to follow regs as close as I can. I don't have a picture but there a void of approx 10 inches between the plasterboard and concrete - without insulation
no need for pic as your info states you are well qualified for what you are doing for changing E.L.V. to mains LED GU10
 
as murdoch says, the concreteis the fire barrier and, as the lights don't penetrate it, then you're fine .
 
I think you have the incorrect conception of a fire rated down lights, the fittings ability to not give off heat has nothing to do with it, the fact your cutting a large hole in a fire barrier between floors is what you need to be concerned about, this is why you need to fit a fire rated fitting. Fit fire rated fittings or walk away, the cost diference is minimal
 
as murdoch says, the concreteis the fire barrier and, as the lights don't penetrate it, then you're fine .
Each dwelling in a block of flats is a fire compartment hence the layer of concrete.
he concrete also helps to hold the upstairs on top of the downstairs. :mad:
 
I think you have the incorrect conception of a fire rated down lights, the fittings ability to not give off heat has nothing to do with it, the fact your cutting a large hole in a fire barrier between floors is what you need to be concerned about, this is why you need to fit a fire rated fitting. Fit fire rated fittings or walk away, the cost diference is minimal
rubbish. the concrete is the fire barrier, not the plasterboard ceiling.
 
I agree in this scenario.. it was the OP stating about heat from the lamp which made me think he didnt know what the purpoe of a fire rated fitting was for, which is how i started my reply to him if u read it properly.
 
once you start to drilling holes in a ceiling, you are braking the integrity of that ceiling
if a room is above it e.g. wooden floor, fire risk how ever if solid concrete floor above no fire will get through .
 
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As Bigsparks says, the difference in cost between non fire rate and fire rated down lights is minimal. In fact, I go further to say you'll be hard pushed to find a decent non fire rated DL. Even reasonable quality LED DL are manufactured to comply with Part B, but some also Part C & Part E.

Cheapest DL at Screwfix for example, non rated with lamp is about £4. Cheapest fire rated, with lamp is £7. But then your client might start moaning, when the cheap LED lamps start failing. There's decent DL now for sub £20.
 
Whilst the concrete floor is the actual fire barrier, and the choice of downlight will actually make no difference in the real world, I would still fit fire rated as my first choice, simply because I have gotten so used to fitting them, and the price difference isn't huge. In this case though, if the customer insisted on saving a few quid, then I would fit regular ones rather than not do the job.
 
i think the OP has been asked to replace the MR16 s with GU10 s in the existing non- fire rated fittings.
 

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