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Discuss IKEA bathroom light issues! in the Lighting Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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MR CHRISTOPHER P CONAGHAN

Hi all,

Looking for a little advice on hooking this IKEA bathroom light up to the connections in the picture. As shown, the IKEA light has just a live and neutral input. I need to take the rose off so assume I'll need to connect some of the wires up in a block.

If anyone can provide a step by step, I'd really appreciate it.

I've numbered the picture of the rose.

Many thanks!IKEA bathroom light issues! 20170601_181617 - EletriciansForums.net

IKEA bathroom light issues! 20170601_180801 - EletriciansForums.net
 
Is the Ikea light fitting (the bit in the photo) metal or plastic? At first glance it looks metal, but I could be wrong, it could be a dark plastic?

If it is metal, then I would question is this really suitable to be called Class II, there are singly insulated wires that could become trapped against the fitting, and perhaps it really ought to be Class I and earthed?
 
Join 2+3 together in a choc block, join the earths together in a choc block. If you want to be really professional get some insulation tape out to! 1+4 go to the L+N on the new light fitting. They could go either way unless the new fitting has screw thread 'bulbs'. If it did have screw threads then correct polarity should be observed. As SJD says, be careful not to trap any cables when screwing the fitting to the ceiling bracket.
I would always advocate getting an electrician in to do the work though. I would carry out a quick loop test, that is beneficial as it could point to issues on that circuit or the installation.
 
Is the Ikea light fitting (the bit in the photo) metal or plastic? At first glance it looks metal, but I could be wrong, it could be a dark plastic?

If it is metal, then I would question is this really suitable to be called Class II, there are singly insulated wires that could become trapped against the fitting, and perhaps it really ought to be Class I and earthed?

looking at picture it shows double insulated fitting
 
The picture shows a Class II symbol, if that is what you mean, but that does not necessarily mean the fitting actually would pass for Class II.
manufactures have classed as double insulated, that would be good enough for me, look at the fitting outside looks metal & the plastic part in the middle where the cables would go would then make this double insulated.
I am no expert but I would go with the manufacturers instructions.
 
manufactures have classed as double insulated, that would be good enough for me, look at the fitting outside looks metal & the plastic part in the middle where the cables would go would then make this double insulated.
I am no expert but I would go with the manufacturers instructions.
The picture shows a Class II symbol, if that is what you mean, but that does not necessarily mean the fitting actually would pass for Class II.
looks like it has a CE mark also behind the white flex
 
It does have a CE mark as well, so hopefully someone competent has examined it and deemed it worth of this and the Class II mark.

It is quite possible there is an internal cover over the plastic inner, to contain any single insulated wires, but otherwise I see scope for wires trapped against the metal outer if fitted carelessly.

Sometimes I have to wonder why not just make the fitting Class I, unless of course it is aimed at older properties with no earth in the lighting circuits.
 
OT slightly but never understood why people rave about IKEA and travel for miles to get to the few stores that they have.
We've had some Ikea furniture which lasted a long time until the dog tried to eat it. A lot of their basic home stuff like cutlery and crockery are cheap.

But their light fittings have been designed by a blind hamster...
 

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