Discuss manufacturer's instructions vs common sense! in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

E

Eddiesparks

Ok I know this is dragged up time and time again regarding the 3a fuse on a fan debate but i had an interesting one today.

i am installing a belling 100dft range cooker, the manufacturer's instructions are tight lipped about the actual wattage of the bleeding thing but the info I got was that it needs to be protected by a 32a mcb and also in the manufacturer's data it says that you need to install in 6mm t&e.

The cable run is relatively short, voltage drop is ok and reference method is C - clipped direct - IE clipped direct to a joist with no insulation around it and also chased in for a short run down to the cooker isolator (correct me if i am wrong but this is my understanding of the reference method C), for this reason I decided to go for 4mm t&e protected by a 32a mcb - CCC is 37a so ok for a 32a mcb. Now technically this is against the manufacturer's data but I would claim common sense on this one - the manufactirer's data probably assumes that the person installing may have no idea about cable calculations and could be installing in loads of insulation etc so to save the job of calculating they over spec with the cable size. Would you agree??

Ignoring the "best practice to use 6mm for the future" aspect do you think i was right or wrong
in this instance???

Thanks a lot peoples
 
I have done exactly the same myself.

From the manual it states to use a minimum 30A DP switch and 6mm cable. It also states the load of the oven on page 38 ....doh !!..... 6870W.
So you are well in even before you apply diversity....
 
M.I's can dictate appliance location, clearance for maintenance etc but couldn't possibly dictate something with variables like cable size.
Even if they said cable had to be 16mm, it could still be undersized.
 
Ok I know this is dragged up time and time again regarding the 3a fuse on a fan debate but i had an interesting one today.

i am installing a belling 100dft range cooker, the manufacturer's instructions are tight lipped about the actual wattage of the bleeding thing but the info I got was that it needs to be protected by a 32a mcb and also in the manufacturer's data it says that you need to install in 6mm t&e.

The cable run is relatively short, voltage drop is ok and reference method is C - clipped direct - IE clipped direct to a joist with no insulation around it and also chased in for a short run down to the cooker isolator (correct me if i am wrong but this is my understanding of the reference method C), for this reason I decided to go for 4mm t&e protected by a 32a mcb - CCC is 37a so ok for a 32a mcb. Now technically this is against the manufacturer's data but I would claim common sense on this one - the manufactirer's data probably assumes that the person installing may have no idea about cable calculations and could be installing in loads of insulation etc so to save the job of calculating they over spec with the cable size. Would you agree??

Ignoring the "best practice to use 6mm for the future" aspect do you think i was right or wrong
in this instance???

Thanks a lot peoples
what is the rating of the cooker in KWs?
 
Think the rule would be;

Consult M.I's then sprinkle lightly with common sense,
Not, Use common sense and resort to M.I's as a last resort.
 
yes. and buried in masonry wall . both C.
 
Think the rule would be;

Consult M.I's then sprinkle lightly with common sense,
Not, Use common sense and resort to M.I's as a last resort.

Or in the case of homebase and B&Q light fittings... open box, discard leaflet, discard fixings pack, proceed to install light properly.
I jest not, one leaflet said of the looped line conductor "secure wires in the connector block provided, wrap in AT LEAST 2 layers of electrical tape, push connector back into ceiling behind the light fitting"
 
Or in the case of homebase and B&Q light fittings... open box, discard leaflet, discard fixings pack, proceed to install light properly.
I jest not, one leaflet said of the looped line conductor "secure wires in the connector block provided, wrap in AT LEAST 2 layers of electrical tape, push connector back into ceiling behind the light fitting"

seen that. what's electrical tape. does it come with a fitted plug?
 

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