Discuss New build timber framed problem in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I once did a new build a quite a few years back,the architects name was Ian Goodenough
It is a genuine name for a guy that actually was good enough

As a bit of light hearted relief, I worked with a guy called Richard Cockhead, apparently it's pronounced 'Cohead', and for some reason, he insisted on being called Richard.

Also knew a cop called Police Constable Crook.
 
Those of us who remember Maxwell Smart - I have met his namesake who was in the non comedic branch of that endeavour. I told him to get a real alias as that one was taken. He was not amused :)
 
Hi.

If there is no chance of cross battening I would notch the joist and put plates across them.

There is slim downlights that would fit and give great light output. I'll post an image off them.
The ones I have fitted in the past are aura enlite

I think keff do some slim speakers too

Aurora-Enlite-18W-slim.jpg
 
Hi.

If there is no chance of cross battening I would notch the joist and put plates across them.

There is slim downlights that would fit and give great light output. I'll post an image off them.
The ones I have fitted in the past are aura enlite

I think keff do some slim speakers too

View attachment 36423

Cheers.

So, in case this battening idea didn't pan out is notching the joist and putting plates on acceptable with regs?
 
@Lee42 the plate gives some nice mechanical protection, so you can bury at less than 50mm, but the other reason is the steel shores up the weak spot in the joist. Support strength comes from the top and bottom surface of a joist, the center doesn't do much to hold the rest up, so the steel replaces the lost strength is how I understand it.

Like I said though, never used them and my ideas are based on the wet toilet paper between my ears, not fancy evidence or proof. :)
 
You will not need them to support the notch as looking at the picture they are not structurl joists. They look like 2 x 1 that have been nailed on over the top of the insulation so when plasterboarding they have something to screw to.
My main concern would be whoever is plasterboarding accidently screws through a cable. Which is why I would put plates over the notches.

Hope that helps
 
If they won't batten the ceiling down then they can't have recessed lights or speakers, it's pretty simple really

I agree on the speakers but there is recessed lights on the market that will fit in there.
The light in the picture i posted is only 25mm deep so once u add the depth of the plasterboard u will have enough room
 
I agree on the speakers but there is recessed lights on the market that will fit in there.
The light in the picture i posted is only 25mm deep so once u add the depth of the plasterboard u will have enough room
This light fitting is all well and good but the driver needs to go somewhere and not in contact/surrounded by insulation.
 
Hi everyone,

Thought I'd post here to see if any of you have wired new builds single storey, no loft with foil back insulation.

Its a high spec new build - downlights, data cables, speakers wires etc

I have attached a pic of the ceiling which has just been finished.

The problems i've got is there is barely a 40mm gap so drilling through will put me way out of regs. This stuff is stapled tight to ceiling so bit of a nightmare really.

Wondered what others have done to comply with regs.

Cheers, Jon

View attachment 36413
Before drilling any pre-fabricated roofing joists I'd talk to the manufacturer first because this might seriously weaken the structure. In my opinion there is always an opportunity to install cables at the lowest apex where no-one should be in a position to damage them and without drilling the structure.
 

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