oven with 13amp socket

[westlondont]

I have an electric oven with a fused 13amp plug connected.
If I remove the plug would it be ok to change the wire from the cooker to a 4 or 6mm t and e and wire it straight into the cooker outlet plate?

 

[Spudnik]

I would say not, as for one thing, it may invalidate your warranty.

 

[sedgy34]

I have an electric oven with a fused 13amp socket connected.
If I remove the socket would it be ok to change the wire from the cooker to a 4 or 6mm t and e and wire it straight into the cooker outlet plate?

best if you can post a picture but sounds like the 13 amp socket could be for ignition.

 

[ipf]

Do you mean a 13amp plug ?

 

[westlondont]

Thanks for the response guys, its a standard oven gril that fits under the work top, but it came with a 13amp fused plug on there, and the cooker socket is 45amp rated, so I dont want to wire it straight into the cooker outlet plate with the 3 core flex thats with it without some sort of fused protection, which is why i figured on changing the cable to a 4 or 6mm t and e.

 

[westlondont]

Yeah sorry its been a long day my brain is frazzeled.
edited it.

 

[oldtimer]

Oh Oh we have had this conversation and it got a bit heated the way I look at it is that if the oven is rated and comes with a 13A plug top then this should be left on if i have to connect a hob and oven I advise fitting a 13A socket off the cooker outlet so that that oven can be plugged into it and when it needs replaced or repaired it can safely be disconnected . I have seen a lot of ovens with the plug cut off and it wired straight into the cooker outlet only thing is the oven that was protected by a 13A fuse is now protected by a 32 or 40 amp circuit breaker or fuse or worse the oven and hob are wired straight into the cooker outlet and if I had a pound for everytime I have seen a loose earth or neutral well.

Also just to highlight I was called to to a 20 year old flat last week where the fridge ,dishwasher,washing machine that were all connected straight into a FCU I never understood this and again advised the customer to change it to a 13A socket she then said why and I said next time you get another fridge or move you wont need me to disconnect and connect "put a single socket in she said"

 

[ipf]

Thought so. Not OK. You need the 13 amp protection. If possible, change the cooker outlet to one with a socket. Easiest of various methods.

 

[sedgy34]

Do you mean a 13amp plug ?

smart arse!!!!

 

[ipf]

Yeah sorry its been a long day my brain is frazzeled.
edited it.

Why edit. It makes my question look a bit stupid now.lol.

 

[ipf]

smart arse!!!!

Thanks.....smell that!!!!

 

[westlondont]

I have seen a lot of ovens with the plug cut off and it wired straight into the cooker outlet only thing is the oven that was protected by a 13A fuse is now protected by a 32 or 40 amp circuit breaker

Thats what was worrying me
The easiest and cheapest way I could think of was to change the cable on the oven, as I dont fancy pulling the whole thing out if a fuse blows.

 

[ipf]

Thats what was worrying me
The easiest and cheapest way I could think of was to change the cable on the oven, as I dont fancy pulling the whole thing out if a fuse blows.

Suggest you get an electrician in to sort it. What you plan is not safe. Plug in to a local socket if need be.

 

[westlondont]

Suggest you get an electrician in to sort it. What you plan is not safe. Plug in to a local socket if need be.

The problem is getting to a socket where the cooker is, its not feasible without some major work, I think im just going with changing the cable on the cooker to a 6 mm t and e.

 

[ipf]

You need fused protection for the cooker. It came with 13 amp fused plug fitted for a reason. Qualified help required.

 

[westlondont]

You need fused protection for the cooker. It came with 13 amp fused plug fitted for a reason.

I agree
The cooker is on its own radial with a 32amp mcb

Im going to change it to 16amp mcb and change the wire on the oven to 6mm.

Cant see a problem with that.
The Oven is rated at 2500w.

 

[Spazz]

Don't forget the fuse protects the cable nothing more.

If a fault occurs then the RCD isolates the supply.

The reason for the 13A plug is the cooker does not draw much current - hence no need for a large cable - hence the correct size fuse for the cable = 13A.

There is no harm in putting 2.5mm T&E Flex on it at that rated oven (prob what they used).

You can wire it straight into the cooker connection plate - again no harm in it but check the warranty - if anything goes wrong put the 13A plug back on.

You can leave the 32A MCB as it is as that is protecting the 6mm or 10mm cable from the CU to the cooker connection plate - changing i wont make any difference unless you change it to a bigger cooker.
As standard I always put 10mm cable from the CU to the shower and cooker when Im installing a new circuit - you never know who will upgrade the appliances and not check the cable!

 

[westlondont]

Don't forget the fuse protects the cable nothing more.

If a fault occurs then the RCD isolates the supply.

The reason for the 13A plug is the cooker does not draw much current - hence no need for a large cable - hence the correct size fuse for the cable = 13A.

There is no harm in putting 2.5mm T&E Flex on it at that rated oven (prob what they used).

You can wire it straight into the cooker port - again no harm in it but check the warranty - if anything goes wrong put the 13A plug back on.

Thanks Nicholas.

I wasnt sure about 2.5mm but thats because the mcb was a 32amp with a 16amp breaker I think it should be ok with the 2.5mm.
I just had one ****ty day today, and ended up with brain freeze.

Im gonna sink a few pints and it will all be clearer in the morning I think.

 

[huntos33]

Can you not change the cooker outlet plate to a single socket and plug it straight in ? or do you have a electric hob using the outlets as well ?

 

[westlondont]

Can you not change the cooker outlet plate to a single socket and plug it straight in ? or do you have a electric hob using the outlets as well ?

Its a gas hob, the cooker outlet is behind the cooker so if the fuse blows because the oven light goes or something I would have to pull the whole lot out if I needed to change it, and to try to run the plug on the cooker to a reachable socket is a real pain in the a*se.

Changing the cable on the cooker is simple, and now I know its on its own radial, Im gonna change the mcb to a 16amp.