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David Prosser

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I just need something clearing up as I have not done domestic wiring for a good few years now.

If I fit LED down lights that have no replaceable bulbs so can’t be over loaded, do I need to fit the in intumescent hoods for lights going into the loft or just some sort of device to keep the insulation a decent distance away from them ? Also what about fitting the same lights in to a kitchen ceiling with rooms above ?

Also if you fit a particular brand and think they represent good value/easy to fit then can you put a link up.

Thanks
 
The intumescent hoods are nothing to do with the lights themselves, they are maintaining the fire barrier that the hole in the ceiling may have caused. Generally modern ceilings are not affected in their fire resistance by downlight holes so the fire rated ones are only required if the ceiling is a fire compartment e.g. there is another flat above the room. but fitting fire rated ones I feel should be the default as the cost difference is minimal now.
A lot of LED downlights are fire rated anyway so would not need the hoods (if they are not fire rated then get some that are rather than fitting hoods!)

The insulation still needs to be kept away from the lights (unless they are the ones that can be covered with insulation) as LEDs tend to fail if they get above 70°C so there must be good ventilation.
 
The plasterboard ceiling is not deemed a fire compartment ceiling, however it should provide 30 minutes protection of the upper floor in the event of a fire. Tests have been carried out as to the effect of downlights fitted in these ceilings and the result was that the 30 minutes protection was not compromised whether they were fire rated fittings or not. It is recommended the downlights should be sensibly spaced and it is not necessary to fit fire protection, however due to their cost now in relation to non fire rated fittings I would opt for the fire rated version.
 
Thanks for the replies. Insulation cowboys are coming back after I have rewired and want to charge a £10 per hood for every light they see ("can't fit it without them mate") !! Think I will make some spacers to protect them from the insulation and over heating. the ones in Screwfix don't look good for my job as too high for my ceiling joists. Any one made any or bought some good ones. I was thinking of using 300mm cable try as that is roughly the width between my roof joists.

On the fire rating for down-lights can't even seem to find any not rated (no need for links thanks I'm sure they are out there).
 
Thanks for the replies. Insulation cowboys are coming back after I have rewired and want to charge a £10 per hood for every light they see ("can't fit it without them mate") !! Think I will make some spacers to protect them from the insulation and over heating. the ones in Screwfix don't look good for my job as too high for my ceiling joists. Any one made any or bought some good ones. I was thinking of using 300mm cable try as that is roughly the width between my roof joists.

On the fire rating for down-lights can't even seem to find any not rated (no need for links thanks I'm sure they are out there).
 
just tell the insulation monkeys to keep their itchy snot away from your lights. the lights were there first. tell them to live with it or do one.
 
Thanks for the replies. Insulation cowboys are coming back after I have rewired and want to charge a £10 per hood for every light they see ("can't fit it without them mate") !! Think I will make some spacers to protect them from the insulation and over heating. the ones in Screwfix don't look good for my job as too high for my ceiling joists. Any one made any or bought some good ones. I was thinking of using 300mm cable try as that is roughly the width between my roof joists.

On the fire rating for down-lights can't even seem to find any not rated (no need for links thanks I'm sure they are out there).
There are loads of fire rated down lights that can be loosely covered with insulation. JCC Lighting, Robus, Aurora are just a couple of manufacturers.
 
 

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