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R

RickJ

Hi,

Please go easy on me, I'm not an electrician. I'm making an industrial pipe lamp using plumbing parts. The flex is 3 core, 0.75mm. It came with inline switch and molded plug. Because the flex wasn't long enough before the switch to go through the lamp I'm having to splice it at the base of the lamp. I've used heat shrink crimps (see photo attached)Wiring a lamp - advice please DSC01874.JPG - EletriciansForums.net Do you think this will suffice? Or should I use an alternative method? I've run conduit through the metal pipe so the flex won't be in contact with the metal. Also all the parts are CE marked and the lamp(bulb) holder is earthed. I'm obviously keen for it to be safe.

Any advice gratefully received.

Cheers, Rick
 
The crimp connections should be enclosed.

Providing they are secure, I would pop a layer of good quality adhesive lined heatshrink over the top of them and try and pull/push them up into the tube so they are not accessible from the base. Unfortunately looking at it, that may be tricky because you've not staggered the connections so the whole lot may be too bulky to fit.

In terms of earthing, is the lamp holder metal? Do you have access to any test equipment? You should test for continuity (with the lamp unplugged and not connected to the mains) between the earth pin and the metal of the outside of the lamp holder and then, to the main metallic body (the pipework I guess) of the lamp itself.

The chaps may have more to add, but those are a couple of pointers to get you started.
 
Rick Hi. That is a very coy picture. Can you show the whole thing? It might have been better to get a whole new piece of cable the right size rather than piddle around with a fairly chancey method of connection. Make sure you earth the fitting. Should possibly be done through the brass bayonet cap bulb holder.
 
Hi SparkyChick

Would you heatshrink all of them together or individually? They do just about fit in the actual tube of the lamp. The lampholder is Bakelite/plastic, I figured it was safer than metal. So I should test continuity using a multimeter? When you say earth pin I assume you mean of the plug.

Forgive the simplistic questions. For obvious reasons I'd like to get it right. Thanks for helping.
 
Hi Vortigem. Sorry for the picture. I think I may well just rewire without having to join the wires. A single run must surely reduce chances of mishaps. It's certainly got to be a more elegant solution. If the landholder itself is earthed do I have to do anything about actually earthing the body of the lamp. I'll post a photo later if that helps.
 
The brass lampholder should have a brass bush to connect directly to the metal I guess. I would still be inclined to earth the metal work with a crimped round lug though. Do you have an RCD in your "fuse box" If you have that will be better for you. You may have to get a bush adaptor to make sure metal is continuous. If that is imperial thread you may be hard put to bush up to the metal pipework size. But yeh a picture would help of the whole thang!
 
Thanks to all for your replies. Sorry if I wasn't clear with my description. Probably best if I start again and with photos.

I'm making a table lamp out of plumbing pipe. It's 3/4" bsp malleable iron.

The flex is entering through the bottom of the lamp (3 core x 0.75mm). I was initially going to use a lamp flex kit that had a molded plug and inline switch already connected. But because of the distance that the flex has to run through the pipework this probably won't be possible because the switch is too close to the actual lamp etc. This was why I was initially trying to extend/splice the cable

I have lined the iron pipe with corrugated plastic conduit for added safety. The actual lampholder is plastic and has an earth terminal in the cap. I'm wondering if I make the connection to the earth terminal in the lampholder will this be enough or will I need to earth the pipe body as well? If I do what would I use to do this? (Please bare in my mind I'm fairly new to such things).

Thanks for your help guys, really appreciate it.

Wiring a lamp - advice please DSC01871.JPG - EletriciansForums.net Wiring a lamp - advice please DSC01876.JPG - EletriciansForums.net Wiring a lamp - advice please DSC01879.JPG - EletriciansForums.net Wiring a lamp - advice please DSC01880.JPG - EletriciansForums.net
 
Westward, I haven't screwed down the chord grip but it's on the picture of the base of the lamp. Is this what you meant?
 
I like it! are you using LED lamp? might consider heatproof cable. I think I would drill though the pipework close to the lampholder thread it and put a small nut and bolt of the right size and clamp a crimped lug/earth lead to it and attach other end to the earth terminal in the lampholder. The earth lead going internally to the nut. As the metal would be bare inside I presume?
 
I'm using Edison style filament bulbs. I think on reflection I will try and attach an earth lug to the pipework like you suggest. Could I use any small nut and bolt for this? Is there a specific name for heatproof cable? If I'm redoing the wire I may as well make it uber safe.

Glad you like it. Thanks again.
 
Yes you have done a good job, how are you fixing the lamp holder to the pipework. If you can put in place a thread it will earth the pipe through the thread with the earth to the earth terminal of the lamp holder. I am impressed.
 
The lampholder external thread screws exactly into the pipe socket on the lamp head, a happy coincidence. I'm not quite sure if I follow. I'm probably being dense
 
Just connect the earth to the lamp holder earth terminal job done no need for anything else as this will earth the pipework as well.
 
I like what you've done, great idea.
I think you may need a pressure gauge that is rated up to 30bar though as it is electricity and safety is always first!
Post a photo of the finished product.
Did you have bits lying around or did you buy it all, what's the bill so far?
 
The pressure gauge is only for show and isn't connected to anything. I'll certainly post pictures of the finished article. Got more elaborate ones planned.

All new parts. Probably runs to about £50+, especially allowing for my adventures in wiring
 

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