Discuss Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views! in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

A fan 'isolator' found during a periodic inspection. It switched the fan on and off but left it live. Perhaps it was some attempt to wire the timer fan into a circuit with no switched supply.
View attachment 42462
Carrying out some alterations in a new office building, found during testing, the terminals had been seriously overtightened, I assume with an impact driver.
View attachment 42463
Was it done by someone who was deemed Competent, or by a proper Electrician?
 
Hi Wilko, thanks for that clarification. I understand that a proper, correctly tightened joint with full pressure on the whole of the intended connection is clearly the best situation. I guess either of the scenarios I mentioned will indeed eventually lead to failure in some way or another.
I was also thinking of Wago vs chockbloc...I love Wagos, but I get the feeling that the actual contact area might, depending on conductor size, be quite small on the lever ones, compared with a correctly sized chockbloc where the surface area in contact with the connector might be greater, if properly tightened. Just a thought...
 
Yes, understood. I think I'll have to dismantle a Wago to see what the contact area is like. I'm sure they're fine btw - just out of curiosity :)
 
Was it done by someone who was deemed Competent, or by a proper Electrician?
I'm not sure, I guess I could ask them, but as they don't speak English I don't think they would understand the question...
To be fair the installation was OK for the most part. The design of the installation is certainly good.
 
same with bollards, is it really above 90% of "electricians" to drill a drainage hole at the bottom of the stem?

i had to fault find on some bollards once after several companies had looked at it, i took off all the covers and jackpot, bollard connections immersed in about 2ft of water, duct had filled with water also so i opted for a re-wire of the 3 bollards

dont know what the other guys had done as far as testing but they couldnt have missed the water in the bollard if they had bothered to inspect them

a small drainage hole and some forethought would have saved the installation, it wasnt even 5 years old
 
This light looked OK, but with low IR on the supply.
IMG_2421 - Copy.JPG

Although I did notice an odd dribble of water on the outside.
IMG_2420 - Copy.JPG

So I started to investigate and found that the installer had filled the base with expanding foam.
IMG_2425 - Copy.JPG

Causing the whole post to fill with water.
IMG_2428 - Copy.JPG

Including the junction box half way up.
IMG_2433 - Copy.JPG

Yes, it's a connection to SWA. And none of the cable armour in the garden was earthed.
 
This light looked OK, but with low IR on the supply.
View attachment 42483

Although I did notice an odd dribble of water on the outside.
View attachment 42487

So I started to investigate and found that the installer had filled the base with expanding foam.
View attachment 42484

Causing the whole post to fill with water.
View attachment 42485

Including the junction box half way up.
View attachment 42486

Yes, it's a connection to SWA. And none of the cable armour in the garden was earthed.
Never known filling the base with expanding foam, what was the reasoning for that? The lamp post shouldn't be letting in water.
 
Never known filling the base with expanding foam, what was the reasoning for that? The lamp post shouldn't be letting in water.

No idea why it was filled. Maybe to stop ants, etc., making a nest inside?
My policy with any outdoor stuff is to assume that water will get inside and always drill one or two drain holes (usually a 4.5mm drill) whether the manufacturer's instructions say to or not. With outdoor bulkhead lights, I'll sometimes cut out a small section of the rubber gasket at the bottom edge.
 
No idea why it was filled. Maybe to stop ants, etc., making a nest inside?
My policy with any outdoor stuff is to assume that water will get inside and always drill one or two drain holes (usually a 4.5mm drill) whether the manufacturer's instructions say to or not. With outdoor bulkhead lights, I'll sometimes cut out a small section of the rubber gasket at the bottom edge.

The problem with that though is ants. I investigated a clients swimming pool area where 3 sets of lights were tripping the RCDs. Each and every bollard (12 in all) was full to the top with an ants nest and damp soil and I had to replace the lot.

Manufacturers instructions take priority and if they don't say to drill a drain hole, then they've designed and made the fitting so it should not need one so I don't.
 
For outdoor panels we regularly use a small container with mothballs in it to keep the ants, spiders and even snakes out. Not sure if they're still in favour from an H&S point of view though or whether they've been found to cause cancer or kill dolphins....
 
The problem with that though is ants. I investigated a clients swimming pool area where 3 sets of lights were tripping the RCDs. Each and every bollard (12 in all) was full to the top with an ants nest and damp soil and I had to replace the lot.

Manufacturers instructions take priority and if they don't say to drill a drain hole, then they've designed and made the fitting so it should not need one so I don't.

Usual forum posting issue.
 
The problem with that though is ants. I investigated a clients swimming pool area where 3 sets of lights were tripping the RCDs. Each and every bollard (12 in all) was full to the top with an ants nest and damp soil and I had to replace the lot.

Manufacturers instructions take priority and if they don't say to drill a drain hole, then they've designed and made the fitting so it should not need one so I don't.

Agree about the ant problem.

I regard manufacturer's instructions as a guide only.
The water seals on equipment may be OK when new, but after they've started to harden and deteriorate, and especially if disturbed, they'll no longer work as designed. So I think that adding drain holes is a sensible move unless there's planned programme of seal replacement, which usually there isn't.
 
A new standard has been set with live action and a fire !
This shouldn't be read as a challenge @Wilko - not everything is a challenge!

For outdoor panels we regularly use a small container with mothballs in it to keep the ants, spiders and even snakes out. Not sure if they're still in favour from an H&S point of view though or whether they've been found to cause cancer or kill dolphins....
The dolphins shouldn't be messing with your outdoor panels if they don't want to get hurt - seriously, get back in the sea!
 
Agree about the ant problem.

I regard manufacturer's instructions as a guide only.
The water seals on equipment may be OK when new, but after they've started to harden and deteriorate, and especially if disturbed, they'll no longer work as designed. So I think that adding drain holes is a sensible move unless there's planned programme of seal replacement, which usually there isn't.
Some of the cheaper end of the range of floods don't have the seal around the edge always seated correctly leading to condensation or ingress of water.
It shouldn't be down to the installer to check the manufacturers workmanship. looks bad on us that have to return to site and replace.
 
They were probably going for 'bad spelling" and hit "old" instead - could be worse, could be "dumb" - that would have you cussing!
"Old! is it? Well pardon me for breathing...
I must do better, obviously!
 

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