Discuss Attaching 13A plug on 20A appliance safety in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

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What exactly about it would be unsafe, if the 13A fuse would be the first thing to go wouldn’t this ensure that the garage wiring and everything else would be intact?

Marginal overloads do not usually blow the fuse, but experience shows that they can stress the contacts and connections in sockets etc. Prolonged load just over 13A is a known cause of burnt electrical accessories. The fuse is primarily there to protect against fault conditions, not incorrect usage, although it acts as a backstop to avoid wiring overheating if the plug is overloaded. In the case of the welder, because the load is intermittent, damage is unlikely, but you can't assume that modern accessories made down to a price with withstand even 13A for long.

As it is an inverter welder, you might find that the current is comfortably within 13A on lower output settings. Plugging it into an energy monitor that has a current display mode might confirm, if you can keep the current steady enough. But if the flex is 2.5 sqmm, it may not be possible to make a safe termination into a 13A plug anyway.
 
I am pretty sure BS1363 restricts the maximum size of cord to 1.5 so I would not suggest the OP attempts connecting a 2.5
 
Indeed - if the current were within 13A I would terminate it to a 16A and use a jumper.
 
Instead of rating all of my posts "dumb" in retaliation, perhaps you should accept that your post actually is dumb.
Strange how I’ve posted the same advice on the Screwfix Forum and the IET Forum, yet it’s only you who thinks it dumb?
Like, I’ve said, I’ve been using the same 13A plug with the same fuse for over 20 years on my mig welder.
Unlike a tig welder, the mig also has a wire feed motor.
 
as spin says. should be OK.try the bugger on a 13A plug. worst thing is the 13A fuse will blow.
 
as spin says. should be OK.try the bugger on a 13A plug. worst thing is the 13A fuse will blow.
The worst that will happen is that it won't blow with a small overload of long duration.
 
The worst that will happen is that it won't blow with a small overload of long duration.
Sorry, but that is rubbish.
The very nature of welding, means that there is no long duration.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry, but that is rubbish.
The very nature of welding, means that there is no long duration.
No point trying to dress it up - it's very poor advice to give that this could be an appropriate way of connecting it up. It's wholly inappropriate. There's a reason it doesn't have a BS 1363 plug (aka plug top) on it.
 
Strange how I’ve posted the same advice on the Screwfix Forum
LOL. And you think that enhances your argument? Let's be honest - that forum is largely inhabited by the clueless and the clinically insane.
 
No point trying to dress it up - it's very poor advice to give that this could be an appropriate way of connecting it up. It's wholly inappropriate. There's a reason it doesn't have a BS 1363 plug (aka plug top) on it.
I and many others disagree.
This is not an oven or tumble dryer that will be on for hours at a time, often at full load.
This is something that while it may be on for a long periods, will rarely (if ever) be at full load.
The only constant load will be for the fan and perhaps a neon to indicate the machine is on.
There will only be high load for short durations, the magnitude of the load depending on the thickness of the material being welded.
The duration of the load is restricted to the length of the filler rods being used and the duty cycle, which on higher loads can be as little as 30%.
 
the IET Forum
"LoL - Diversity in action - or possible small overloads of long duration, depending on your viewpoint

Regards

OMS"

So the small overloads of long duration scenario has actually been raised to you before, ergo I am not the only one to ever question the practice.
 
No, that was just a comment made by OMS, not a response to anyone in particular, and not even a factual statement.
 
I have used a similar welder (with c. 2.5 mm^2 stranded wire) with an old strong MK 13A plug on it since the mid-1970s in a variety of places, thin and thick welding rods, and sockets. It has always worked and neever blown the (correct 13A) fuse in the plug. The high-current loads do not last for long. I would just do that - BUT - I would also weld for say 10 minutes and the unplug it and feel the plug legs to see how warm they have got. You need a solid plug and a quality socket or they could easily overheat.
 
If the 13A plug will fit the cable, then there should be no problem.
It’s only when you start welding thicker material that you’ll find the fuse blowing.

Give me enough time and incentive, I’d just about squeeze a 4mm2 into a plug top.

It’s not the rule of thumb I would recommend personally.
 
I also have a welder that can draw up to 30Amps. As it was only required for thin (vehicle) welding I fitted a 13A plug, and have used it without a problem for several years. It is always used on a long extension so there will be lower voltage and subsequently higher current than a direct feed.
I have been a qualified spark for 10 years, but prior to that I had experience in electronics / medical sciences / tinkering for 2 decades. I also did a welding course 30 years ago, which is something you probably haven't considered. Provided you don't try welding angle iron, I doubt you'll have a problem with the electrical supply. But please do remember to clear the area of any combustible material, and preferably have a fire extinguisher (CO2) handy, or at very least an old towel in a bucket of water!
 

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