Discuss 3rd Amendment Metal Consumer Unit Product review in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

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I know that there are quite a few members still fitting plastic, but I thought it might be useful to have some reviews on 3rd Amendment CU's from the different manufacturers, only time will tell I suppose.

I'll kick it off. I fitted a couple of Wylex's offerings. Not the most prettiest of things, very 80's square in a magnolia finish. Had the semi fixed bus bar which stopped the twisting of mcb's etc when tightening connections. Seemed to be more room inside, for wiring & RCBO's. The issue I found was cable entry. 32mm knock outs for tails, but only 20mm for circuits. The 20mm are so close, that enlarging them to 25mm, would prevent you from using the adjacent knock out, although you could go bigger, but just adds time to the install. Rear cable entry is not much better, with two oblong knock outs, which I jigsaw'd together, and they're offering a CU pattress to facilitate rear cable enty. Wylex at the moment aren't selling 'fully populated' models, so that puts up the price. Sort of 7/10 from me!
 
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Yes read yours, just thought it would be a good idea to put these all in one place, for members to read & post. Good if we could have one of those poll things, I don't know how that's done?
 
Crabtree.
Overall pretty good lots of room and the 32mm knock out is perfect for tails. Main problem is when swapping old for new all the knock outs are only 20mm across the top (apart from far left and right) resulting in 9/10 the need to drill new/bigger ones. The knock outs generally stay if you are careful enough when drilling but there is a risk they will pop out leaving a gaping hole! Ideally top entry minus the manufacturers knock outs would be perfect.
 
Crabtree.
Overall pretty good lots of room and the 32mm knock out is perfect for tails. Main problem is when swapping old for new all the knock outs are only 20mm across the top (apart from far left and right) resulting in 9/10 the need to drill new/bigger ones. The knock outs generally stay if you are careful enough when drilling but there is a risk they will pop out leaving a gaping hole! Ideally top entry minus the manufacturers knock outs would be perfect.
why can't they make them the same as control panels or smooth.

if they did then we could bush a trunking header in and job done.
 
Fitted a fully populated MK dual RCD last week, ÂŁ63 + VAT from Neweys. Knockouts werent really in the right places so had to very carefully drill out a 40mm for the Wiska tails gland I used (grey plastic) and the 32mm blind grommets (grey rubber)I used for circuit cables. Only one 32mm knockout in the right place so would have been better & quicker if enclosure had been smooth. The colour was greyish off white so didnt look too bad once installed. Wall was slightly off plumb so gravity device cover hung very slightly open and had no means of securing closed . Quality was better than recent plastic MK boards which I stopped using as they were just too flimsy. Customer seemed happy enough with job. Overall will defo use again esp if they remain at that price.
 
The position of the knock outs seem to be an issue with most manufacturers. Only fitted four AMD3 boards so far, all Hager. Tails knockout is the main issue I have found as started using the Wiska tail glands whether it's TT or not. I think some manufacturers do offer enclosures with no knockouts at all. I read it somewhere on here I think and don't know for certain whether it's true though.

I sort of liked the look of the MK amd3 boards at first (with a curvy flap), but think they look dated already! Never liked MK CUs as a whole.
 
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The daft positioning of knockouts has always been present in metalclad CUs, right back to the Wylex standard range boards. None of them are in the right place to run conduits straight in.

But it's never been whinged about quite so much as I guess the only people using metal boards in recent years are those who are capable of drilling a few holes themselves without making a song and dance of it.
 
The daft positioning of knockouts has always been present in metalclad CUs, right back to the Wylex standard range boards. None of them are in the right place to run conduits straight in.

But it's never been whinged about quite so much as I guess the only people using metal boards in recent years are those who are capable of drilling a few holes themselves without making a song and dance of it.
the last hager tpn board i fitted didnt have any knockouts, i used 2" bushes
 
The position of the knock outs seem to be an issue with most manufacturers....I think some manufacturers do offer enclosures with no knockouts at all. I read it somewhere on here I think and don't know for certain whether it's true though.
The Hager Design 30 comes with optional square knockouts I believe.

Drilled holes in metal enclosures for years, never had a problem. But if the manufacturers are selling them with knockouts, they could at least put them in the right place, and larger enough to accommodate the amount of cables that are likely to be installed.
 
watchout for the schneider easy9. not enough room above Din rail for RCBOs if you want to dress the cables neatly, but a huge void below.. no room for cable loom coming from below on left, i had 10 T/E cables crammed into a 20mm wide gap between the end MCB and the casing. the RCDs are incomers at bottom instead of the top, and the main switch is arse about face.
 
Eaton boards are quite nice , the large hinged door is a good idea and theres good room inside for RCBOs , I would like to see square knock outs that could accept clip in plastic trunking adapters , that would be a great advantage on these boards
 
I have been getting the 10 way dual Rcd high Integrity Eaton boards at denmans , ÂŁ75 + vat loaded with 10 breakers of your choice or slightly more for 14 way ...
 
watchout for the schneider easy9. not enough room above Din rail for RCBOs if you want to dress the cables neatly, but a huge void below.. no room for cable loom coming from below on left, i had 10 T/E cables crammed into a 20mm wide gap between the end MCB and the casing. the RCDs are incomers at bottom instead of the top, and the main switch is arse about face.
thats your mistake easy9 are nasty acti9 are better
 

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