50W LED floodlight problems

[Rajen]

2 floodlights (50W and 30W) have been installed on the same circuit at my property. They are JCC units and both with PIRs, (LAP brand). However, the 50W has also had a manual override switch.

The 30W operates normally but the 50W unit has an unpredictable behaviour of switching on either very dimly or normal brightness. The abnormal dim mode occurs both if triggered by the PIR or with the manual override. The 50W unit has been replaced with the same brand and also the brand of the PIR changed (previously Knightsbridge). However, after all this the problem still persists! Voltage dropped across the 50W unit is normal.

Any ideas on what could be causing this? I don't any electrical knowledge, but read something about inrush current ... could this be related?

The alternative would be to try replace 50W unit with 30W of the same brand or change the 50W unit to a different brand

 

[Wilko]

When you say the 50W is dim, do you mean it's not fully off (when it should be) or it's not fully on ?

 

[Specialist]

When you say the voltage drop across the unit is normal, please explain.
Do you mean that the voltage across the terminals dips when the lamp comes on ? If so then by how much ?
I wouldn't expect the replacement light to exhibit the same problems unless there was a supply fault.

 

[Rajen]

@Wilko. Sorry, I meant that it's not fully on when it should be
@Specialist. Sorry, wrong use of "dropped" here. I meant that the electrician measured the voltage across the unit and it was fine.

 

[Specialist]

@Wilko. Sorry, I meant that it's not fully on when it should be
@Specialist. Sorry, wrong use of "dropped" here. I meant that the electrician measured the voltage across the unit and it was fine.

Hi: Thanks for replying, no need to apologise.
Silly questions maybe, but did the electrician measure the voltage with the lamp on dim or bright ? Also do you know if he used a meter or led test lamp ( 2 pole tester) ?.

A quick way to either prove or disprove the lamp is the problem would be to remove the lamp & connect it via a length of flex & plug into a socket or extension lead. If you still have the light coming on dim then you know its the light.

 

[Rajen]

@Specialist. I *think* the voltage was measured when the floodlight was dim. Not sure if it was measured using a meter or led test lamp (2 pole test).

The first unit was sent back to the supplier and he did what you said ... attached a plug to it and plugged direct to the power supply and apparently it was dim. Puzzling why it sometimes comes on with full brightness.

@Specialist and @Wilko. Will send links to you directly showing the problem in action.

 

[Specialist]

Hi Rajen: I suppose it is possible for supplier to have had a bad batch of lamps or for there to be a design flaw in the 50 watt units. Will take a look online & see if I can discover anything.

 

[Specialist]

So far I'm not seeing any complaints about problems with JCC floods, have you contacted them for advice ?.

 

[Rajen]

Yes. Contacted their technical support and they have not seen this problem. They sent a third unit directly from their stock. This will be installed later this week, which will at least show if the first two were bad batch from the other supplier or otherwise.

BTW. New to this forum ... did you get those links I sent directly to you?

 

[Specialist]

Hi Rajen: No sorry not had anything yet, as a new member you may not have sending privileges yet.
Not to worry, your explanations have been clear & understandable so that's not a problem.
Please keep us informed of what happens, sounds an unusual fault.

 

[Specialist]

Hi Rajen: Just had the video from you. Thanks, good job. It's hard to tell for sure but it looks like the led bank isn't getting the full drive voltage. Looks like it's lit all across but at low power.
If the new one is the same then your electrician needs to take a bit more of an in depth look at the supply to the lamp flex itself.

 

[Marvo]

Did the lights come with the PIR's built-in or were the PIR's separate items?

 

[telectrix]

a possibility is that a switched L connection has been made as a N. seen this happen before now where a supply has been taken from a switch where there is no N present.

 

[Rajen]

@Specialist. Thanks for looking and your comments. Initially, I thought the 50W unit was lit dimly when the 30W unit (side access) was also lit, but this wasn't the case. Strange how it works one moment and then not. It's difficult to re-produce the steps to demonstrate the problem (or even find a pattern!). Will report back later this week hopefully.

 

[Rajen]

@Marvo. The PIRs are separate. Tried Knightbridge and LAP brands. Made no difference.

 

[Specialist]

A normal 25w incandescent lamp in a lampholder, attached to a short length of flex would prove whether the supply was good or not.

 

[Rajen]

@telectrix. Apologies, is the "switch" you are talking about the manual switch override to keep the power onto the 50W unit, without the PIR triggering the floodlight

 

[telectrix]

@telectrix. Apologies, is the "switch" you are talking about the manual switch override to keep the power onto the 50W unit, without the PIR triggering the floodlight

what i meant was that the supply could have been taken from a light switch where the was no neutral, i.e. the N to the light and /or sensor could be a switched L.

 

[Specialist]

I must be losing my edge tel, didn't even consider that as the OP said an Electrician was doing the job

 

[Marvo]

@Marvo. The PIRs are separate. Tried Knightbridge and LAP brands. Made no difference.

I still wouldn't rule out incompatibility between the floodlights and the PIR's. Do you know if the PIR's have a relay contact output or are they a solid state switch like a triac?