Abs and glow plug light errors,blowing 80 amp fuse.

[PEG]

Fully agree with the Euro analysis,in the past,i have had alleged genuine Bosch parts,from them,which were snide,and in snide packaging, Heaven knows what the provenance of the cheap option,is.

As for the testing of glowplugs,remember readings will differ,from cold to operating temp. Your vehicle will as likely have,"post operation" of the glowplugs. This is continued operation,after starting,to enable steady,low rpm running.

The fact that the engine is running,dissipates the heat,and allows extended functioning. If you just apply a feed to the glowplug,without this,it will burn out,or at least become damaged.

You can test this,with a spare,unwanted plug,and watch it melt

They are usually Volt rated,too,so can be designed to operate under load,at anything from 5V to 11.5V.

If that yoke has a similar glowplug control unit,to the Sprinters,etc,it may have failed,and be allowing the plugs to stay on too long,thus burning them out,maybe till they short. The controller will have an input from an engine temperature sender,which may be faulty.

Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up

 

[Bozwell2201]

Lmao quality that peg dont tempt me,ive got more 80 amp fuses due tomorrow,so cant play till then,could a dodgy glow plug cause that much ampage to blow an 80 amp fuse,its crazy to me ya could run a house on a fuse like that then all that it takes is one turn of a little key and bang please feed me with another fuse now.

 

[telectrix]

don't forget that 80A on a house is 20,000watts.
80A @ 12V is 960watts.

change the plugs, then get a clamp meter on each lead on switch on.

 

[ruston]

[QUOTE="

Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up [/QUOTE]

Reminds me of the old Massey 65 ,turn the heater lever on with other thumb on the plug on the dash till your brain told you it was hot enough to start in the prevailing conditions lol.

 

[Bozwell2201]

Hey guys,ive just found a glow plug loom a guys selling 30 english pounds,do think its worth the risk and get it ir better to do my tests first when my fuses come.

 

[ruston]

Do your tests first,take the plugs out and try the circuit for an easy start ,even attach a lamp to the plug live if you want

 

[Bozwell2201]

Im sorry ruston,im a thicko bear with me so i take all the plugs out attach 1 at a time to harness and test,thicko bit do i test with multi meter,black cable on negative red in plug,please say yes my head hurts lol,now what do you mean by test circuit do you mean the loom itself without plugs in if yes negative again red on cable end where plugs attach,told you im thick.sorry to peck your head so much.

 

[ruston]

No either take them out (test them to make sure they are ok , your problem maybe there) or disconnect the leads from the plugs.
Isolate the bare ends from earth to stop them shorting.
If you want to you could connect a lamp or multimer to them securely , turn the ignition on and see if you get a reading or lamp lit, normally this would switch off when max temp and time has been satisfied , but as has been said they may have a cold engine run on to prevent lumpy cold running. If this does not blow a fuse then it may prove the harness is sound.
The best way is to test each live feed in the harnesss to ground, after testing for end to end continuity with your meter to see if any are shorted.
While you have the plugs out test them properly.
I take it the fuse is blowing instantly.

PS , if the lamp does not go out it may be the way the temp is read or as PEG alluded to earlier.

 

[Bozwell2201]

Yes fuse pops straight away,or smokes first but then pops on next turn of key,ive not tried it myself since the mechanic straightened out the no3 cable because i ran out of fuses.

 

[PEG]

Hi,the fuse should definitely not,be smoking first...
You may have a high resistance issue,at the fuse holder. Check this first

 

[Bozwell2201]

Cheers peg will do,yeh smokes quite badly,even when it worked for a couple of days it smoked but didnt blow,theres 3 fuses in this box attached to positive on battery 80 amp abs 80 amp alternator and 30 amp its got comp on box lid i presume compressor?? The abs fuse as also got something else written on box but cant make out what it says,i have seen a schematic and it says abd but doesnt look like that on box two wires go into this one fuse though a red and a white.

 

[Bozwell2201]

Hi all,i just want,to say a massive thank you to the guys who,ve been giving loads of excellent advice over the last few days thank you,oh and just a quick update,i recieved my new fuses this morning,i began to do the tests u was advised to do,it never rains hey,dont buy cheap glow plugs is the message here,tws6s ate cancelled,the 1st plug i tried the nut holding it wont undo the the top of glow plug the cables attached too its all turning the top is nurled and push fitted in cheapo crappio,so ive stopped,put new fuse in and car does all it should again but no smoke from fuse this time,i will say i paid double for these fuses,company called durite miles better made im waiting for engine to cool then try again its started a dozen times upto now but watch this space.cheers again guys.

 

[telectrix]

old scouser proverb. "buy cheap, seller's a manc".