Advice needed on cooker circuit cable selection

[James Boyle]

scenario: old kitchen being replaced

cooker circuit protected by (i think) a 30A rewirable fuse

6mm T&E going from DB the the 45A dp cooker switch

2.5mm T&E cable then goes from cooker switch to a double socket plugged into which will be the plug for the cooker and plug for the gas hob's starter.

new cooker says to use a 13A plug, however the manufacturers flex on the cooker is 3x1.5mm cable which is bigger than expected.

the question is ... is the 2.5mm T&E from the cooker switch to the socket big enough or does it need to be 6mm?

[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]wasn't able to ascertain the max kW the new oven will use however if the manufacturer is happy with a 13A fuse in the plug then i guess its not going to draw any current higher than 13A so the 2.5mm T&E will be fine?[/FONT]

thanks

 

[snowhead]

new cooker says to use a 13A plug, however the manufacturers flex on the cooker is 3x1.5mm cable which is bigger than expected.

I believe the answer is there.

 

[jpaul]

13 a is fine, just remember to down grade the fuse

 

[James Boyle]

13 a is fine, just remember to down grade the fuse

that fine just wanted to know if the 2.5mm T&E from switch to socket was suitable

im an electrical engineer in a different aspect, as opposed to a domestic spark but obviously ive done the odd job here and there, but never had to deal with cable selection so wanted a bit of advice on it.

as for downgrading the fuse - so i need to change the 30A rewirable fuse at the DB for a smaller one? is there a quick formula to work that out or should i be consulting the regs book?

 

[telectrix]

think what he meant was that the 30A fuse is too high a rating to adequately protect the 2.5mm, although it's fine for the 6mm. a 20A fuse would probably be more appropriate.

 

[James Boyle]

think what he meant was that the 30A fuse is too high a rating to adequately protect the 2.5mm, although it's fine for the 6mm. a 20A fuse would probably be more appropriate.

thought it'd be that, nice one thanks puts my mind at rest, thought the wall would have to ripped into to change the cable to a 6mm T&E!

think most of these new cookers have 13A plus and run fine on 2.5mm now from what ive seen recently mind.

 

[Paul.M]

If the spur for the socket is less than 3m you dont have the fuse it down BUT most of us on here would reduce the main MCB to a 20A for a 13A plug in cooker with a spurred socket. Thats what I/we would do. Very simple resolve to your question but if you dont deal with this type of thing you just dont know.

 

[Richard Burns]

If the only thing connected by that 2.5 is a double socket then it is the same as a spur off a ring, you can only pull 26A from the double socket so the 2.5mm on a 32A is OK.

 

[James Boyle]

If the spur for the socket is less than 3m you dont have the fuse it down BUT most of us on here would reduce the main MCB to a 20A for a 13A plug in cooker with a spurred socket. Thats what I/we would do. Very simple resolve to your question but if you dont deal with this type of thing you just dont know.

right nice one. my mate who is a spark mentioned the 45A cooker switch might effect my cable selection but i didnt know what he was on about as that just means the switch can handle that load correct? not as if its a trip switch. the main issues are MCB size(going to be 20A) , cable size (2.5mm), and plug fuse size(13A as per manufacturer). so the 45A cooker switch doesnt effect anything.

cheers for the advice, i know people dont like giving advice to non sparks but as i say im an electrical engineer, got my 17th edition, PAT and 2395 inspection & testing certs aswell, so im not just a bus driver trying my hand with electricity! just doing a job as a favour always good to get a bit of help from the pros.

 

[Paul.M]

right nice one. my mate who is a spark mentioned the 45A cooker switch might effect my cable selection but i didnt know what he was on about (yep, he dose not know what he is on about) as that just means the switch can handle that load correct? (correct) not as if its a trip switch. the main issues are MCB size(going to be 20A) , cable size (2.5mm), and plug fuse size(13A as per manufacturer). so the 45A cooker switch doesnt effect anything. (the cooker switch dose not effect anything unless you apply another 2 phases to it and switch it on and off 5 times in a row at which stage you can transport yourself in time........... ok the time travel is B.S. and so is your mates advice.)

cheers for the advice, (thank you) i know people dont like giving advice to non sparks but as i say im an electrical engineer, got my 17th edition, PAT and 2395 inspection & testing certs aswell, so im not just a bus driver trying my hand with electricity! just doing a job as a favour always good to get a bit of help from the pros.

Who the hell is the Pro that you have had advice from?????? Good luck with it and any problems gt back to us.

 

[Guitarist]

Do you have the test gear and are happy with the certification needed if you go down the route of changing the OCPD?

 

[guest119]

Ovens usually 2.7kw.

Boydy

 

[Engineer54]

We seem to be getting at least one nonsense cooker connection thread per day now!!

 

[Des 56]

We seem to be getting at least one nonsense cooker connection thread per day now!!

It must be a forum theme of the week subject
I remember a few weeks back,we could easily substitute nonsense cooker week for nonsense shed week

 

[Amp David]

13 a is fine, just remember to down grade the fuse

Quality!

Best downrate all the RFCs i've ever put a spur onto then:crazy:

 

[richy3333]

I best not ask the question about putting a cooker in my shed then

 

[telectrix]

i put my cooker in the shed, but she kept banging on the door till i let her out.

 

[guest119]

i put my cooker in the shed, but she kept banging on the door till i let her out.

I like to bang my cooker against the door :smug: :wink5: :devil2:

 

[Bobster]

cheers for the advice, i know people dont like giving advice to non sparks but as i say im an electrical engineer, got my 17th edition, PAT and 2395 inspection & testing certs aswell, so im not just a bus driver trying my hand with electricity! just doing a job as a favour always good to get a bit of help from the pros.

So you an electrical engineer who can't design a very basic circuit.

FFS!

 

[Guitarist]

So you an electrical engineer who can't design a very basic circuit.

FFS!

The term "Electrical engineer" is used these days for most roles involving anything in industry which is electrical related. If you hold any qualification in electrical engineering however, you will have covered simple things such as cable selection, even if you don't "do domestic".