Bathroom Extractor Fan Problem...

[Billy Whizz]

I am aware of the principle of earthing and that all earth's require Yellow/Green sleeving but how do I go about that when there is no provision on the fittings to connect such an earth?

Best regards,

BW

 

[westward10]

Any chance you can show how the downlights are connected.

 

[telectrix]

I am aware of the principle of earthing and that all earth's require Yellow/Green sleeving but how do I go about that when there is no provision on the fittings to connect such an earth?

Best regards,

BW

each cable should have it's cpc connected to it's feeder circuit and hence back to earth at the Consumer Unit. for class II fittings that don't require earthing, the cpc should just be terminated in a single connector or more usually, sleeved and folded back.at each fitting.

 

[Octopus]

Whether or not the CPC goes to the fitting, the CPC needs to be continuous to the end of the circuit.... that also applies to the cable to the fan.......

 

[Billy Whizz]

Telectrix,

Thank you for the explanations. Regarding CPC: None of the downlights have provision to connect a CPC/earth to them and neither does the fan. None of the diagrams supplied with the units showed it either.
Single insulation: The 3-core you refer in the picture is my temporary testing connection cable while trying to figure out how this problem. Once solved they will be shortened appropriately as I have done with the other wire in the J-Box.
Identification: Again, I am temporarily troubleshooting and will sleeve when the problem is successfully solved.

Westward10,

Standby, downlights photo coming...

Best regards,

BW

 

[Billy Whizz]

Westward10,

While I get a photo, this was diagram I used to wire the downlights.

Note: no CPC to the lights.

 

[telectrix]

why a push to break switch?

 

[westward10]

0.75 flex is inadequate for the purpose of fixed wiring.

 

[Billy Whizz]

Telectrix,

That's just a diagrammatic representation by whoever put it on the Internet. Rest assured I have a pull-cord switch like normal people... ;-)

Westward10,

Here are the pics, four downlighters connected in a J-Box, supplied by a switched live.

Telectrix,

As you can see, my single insulation is much better here... ;-) LOL!!

 

[Billy Whizz]

Pics...

 

[Billy Whizz]

Westward10,

Rest assured I used the diagram for layout purposes only, not for material guidance...

 

[telectrix]

Pics...

View attachment 37486

View attachment 37487

definitely an improvement. personally i'prefer wago boxes and connectors.so much more versatile. the connectors are push in, no screws to fart about with.

Wagobox-XL Junction Box in GREY for use with Wago 2273 and 221 terminals - https://www.connexbox.com/shop/wagobox-and-din-rail-enclosures/wagobox-xl-junction-box.html

 

[Billy Whizz]

Niiiice!! Do they do them small enough to mount on a joist? Kinda restricted on space which is why I used the J-Boxes in the pics.

 

[westward10]

Agreed it is an improvement.

 

[telectrix]

they do smaller ones, but you need to consider how many cables/joints are going in it. the one i linked is only 120 x 115 ( milli thingies, not inches which is what i understand). don't matter if it overhangs a bit if you'r e not boarding.

Wagobox Junction Boxes in WHITE for use with Wago 773 and 222 terminals - https://www.connexbox.com/shop/wagobox-and-din-rail-enclosures/wagobox-junction-box-white.html

 

[Billy Whizz]

Anyway, pulling the thread back on target... ;-)

So, in summary:
1. Wired as per fan terminal labels it runs constantly, no switch control.
2. Reversing L & SL gives switch control but no timer.
3. My J-Box husbandry requires attention.
4. CPC has no effect on my fan defect.

If so, I therefore need to call the manufacturer and ask them:
1. Why is the L/SL labelled incorrectly?
2. How exactly do you activate the timer on the fan (as the instructions do not say).

Best regards,

BW

 

[Billy Whizz]

Thanks Telectrix.

 

[Lee42]

If you have a multimeter test between the line (brown) and neutral (grey) with the light switch on and switch line (black) and neutral at the fan. You should get 230v with both of them. Turn the light switch off. The switch line will be dead and you should still have 230v between the brown and neutral.
If that is the case then it has to be a faulty fan.

 

[Billy Whizz]

Thanks Lee42.

Kids are in bed now so stumbling around in the loft will have to wait until the morning.

However, even before I put a multimeter on it have I not already proved both line and switched line voltages? If wired as per the installation diagram and fan labels, the fan runs constantly as soon as the CU is turned on, regardless of light switch position and/or if I operate the light switch (so line voltage must be present). But at the same time the lights turn on and off as commanded with the same light switch (therefore switched line voltage must also be available).

The more I look at it the more it seems like a fault with the fan. But for it to be happening with both supplied fans seems rather strange...

 

[telectrix]

didn't realise they had bathrooms in Luton. thought it were outside bog and a tin tub hanging on a nail between saturdays.