Discuss Best way to cut 40mm diameter holes in metal clad boards in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi folks,

Will be fitting first AMD3 board later this week. Using the Wiska spring tails kit on it. What is best way to drill a 40mm hole through the casing? I have cone drill bits up to 30mm and also have Bosch power change holesaws.

I found the cone drills much better in the past when drilling through Wylex switchfuse casings. I struggled with the holesaws in the past; found the teeth wear away quickly and it is harder to stop the holesaw wandering about a bit and knacking the case.

Opinions please!

Thanks, Neil
 
Hi folks,

Will be fitting first AMD3 board later this week. Using the Wiska spring tails kit on it. What is best way to drill a 40mm hole through the casing? I have cone drill bits up to 30mm and also have Bosch power change holesaws.

I found the cone drills much better in the past when drilling through Wylex switchfuse casings. I struggled with the holesaws in the past; found the teeth wear away quickly and it is harder to stop the holesaw wandering about a bit and knacking the case.

Opinions please!

Thanks, Neil
ive seen some 51mm step cutters which might work if punching it is impractical
 
Holesaws most definately, there is a learning curve to using them and the issues you have all come down to incorrect technique, my holesaws last many years becasue I treat them good and ensure they are well lubed, when your centre bit breaks through its good to learn the feel and sound of the drill to ease off slightly ready for the drill to break through, this stops you crashing the teeth into the solid surface with either damages them or snags of you have a slight angle then you end up with the pilot bit been wrenched into a nice kink.

Try judging for yourself on standard speed bit into metal when they are just about to break through then control it without your bit crahing through with all your body pressure against it... you'll pick it up quickly then you can use the holesaws and make them last.
 
or use a 6.5mm pilot bit like everyone else

What do you mean? I was following on from darkwoods post (the post above mine) where he mentions "crashing the teeth into the solid surface with either damages them or snags of you have a slight angle then you end up with the pilot bit been wrenched into a nice kink".
 
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What do you mean? I was following on from darkwoods post (the post above mine) where he mentions "crashing the teeth into the solid surface with either damages them or snags of you have a slight angle then you end up with the pilot bit been wrenched into a nice kink".
what i meant is you shouldn't really be drilling the pilot hole with the arbor, its only a grub screw holding it in place
 
problem is that by using the pilot bit all the time, it goes blunt and then more force is needed to get it through the metal. i find using a 5mm tungsten bit first saves the pilot bit from wearing.
 
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