At the moment I have a stand alone cooker – it is an electric oven with gas hobs.
I want to get rid of this and extend my kitchen worktop to put a new ‘built in’ electric oven underneath in a new oven cabinet and a surface mounted electric Induction Hob on top. (I shall be getting a Gas Safe Engineer out to disconnect the gas part of the cooker and cap off the gas feed.)
With the current electrical set up, I only have one power feed cable from my distribution board/box (which is in another room - hallway 10m away). I have been told that this is a 6mm2 Twin and Earth cable and runs from a 32A MCB in the distribution board/box over to a 45A Cooker switch on the kitchen wall. The cable then runs directly down to a single power output connection plate where the existing cooker connects into.
The new built in oven I want to get has an electrical connection rating of 3,450W (the spec also says Current 16A and Voltage 220-240V) and the Hob has an electrical connection rating of 7,400W (the spec says Current 32A and Voltage 220-240V). These are two separate units.
My logic says that putting the two together would mean an electrical connection rating of 10,850W with a Current requirement of 48A but I don’t think it actually works like that with the current rating, and this is where I am lost.
Before I ask an electrician to come out and give me quote for the work:-
Would I be able to use this existing cable and changing the existing single output plate to a 45A Dual Appliance Connection Plate so that both the Oven and Hob can be connected up to the same cable/cooker circuit? (i.e. the existing 6mm2 cable with the 45A Cooker Switch and 32A MCB)
Another option would be to run a second 6mm2 power cable over to a new 45A switch recessed in the kitchen wall and then running down to a new 45A single output plate for the Hob to connect into. This would mean that I have two 6mm2 cables, two 45A switches and two output plates – one for the Hob and one for the Cooker. Or would I need another cable?
The problem with this is that I don’t have any more spare positions on the distribution board/box for a new MCB trip fuse which would mean a new larger consumer unit and complete re-wiring. Also I don’t know which way the existing cable runs (up into the ceiling, or down into the floor). Either way I would need to dig up the laminate floor or break into the ceiling which is all very costly.
The last option is to get an Induction Hob that will run off a 13A socket, which is available, but I have heard that you cannot run all hobs on full power at the same time (i.e. they all run at about 50%)
I would really like to do the first method if possible and have both running off the same dual feed.
Can anyone help me on this?
I want to get rid of this and extend my kitchen worktop to put a new ‘built in’ electric oven underneath in a new oven cabinet and a surface mounted electric Induction Hob on top. (I shall be getting a Gas Safe Engineer out to disconnect the gas part of the cooker and cap off the gas feed.)
With the current electrical set up, I only have one power feed cable from my distribution board/box (which is in another room - hallway 10m away). I have been told that this is a 6mm2 Twin and Earth cable and runs from a 32A MCB in the distribution board/box over to a 45A Cooker switch on the kitchen wall. The cable then runs directly down to a single power output connection plate where the existing cooker connects into.
The new built in oven I want to get has an electrical connection rating of 3,450W (the spec also says Current 16A and Voltage 220-240V) and the Hob has an electrical connection rating of 7,400W (the spec says Current 32A and Voltage 220-240V). These are two separate units.
My logic says that putting the two together would mean an electrical connection rating of 10,850W with a Current requirement of 48A but I don’t think it actually works like that with the current rating, and this is where I am lost.
Before I ask an electrician to come out and give me quote for the work:-
Would I be able to use this existing cable and changing the existing single output plate to a 45A Dual Appliance Connection Plate so that both the Oven and Hob can be connected up to the same cable/cooker circuit? (i.e. the existing 6mm2 cable with the 45A Cooker Switch and 32A MCB)
Another option would be to run a second 6mm2 power cable over to a new 45A switch recessed in the kitchen wall and then running down to a new 45A single output plate for the Hob to connect into. This would mean that I have two 6mm2 cables, two 45A switches and two output plates – one for the Hob and one for the Cooker. Or would I need another cable?
The problem with this is that I don’t have any more spare positions on the distribution board/box for a new MCB trip fuse which would mean a new larger consumer unit and complete re-wiring. Also I don’t know which way the existing cable runs (up into the ceiling, or down into the floor). Either way I would need to dig up the laminate floor or break into the ceiling which is all very costly.
The last option is to get an Induction Hob that will run off a 13A socket, which is available, but I have heard that you cannot run all hobs on full power at the same time (i.e. they all run at about 50%)
I would really like to do the first method if possible and have both running off the same dual feed.
Can anyone help me on this?
