Discuss Cooker switch DIY in the Periodic Inspection Reporting & Certification area at ElectriciansForums.net

Welcome to ElectriciansForums.net - The American Electrical Advice Forum
Head straight to the main forums to chat by click here:   American Electrical Advice Forum

J.C.E

-
Arms
Reaction score
158
Have come across a 10mm t&e supplied from 45a 60898 installed a/c. This runs into back of cooker switch back box- terminated into 45a connector blocks- then they have down sized to 6mm and supplied the supply side of the cooker switch -but the supply side has been doubled up with another 6mm supplying a near by single socket ref method a/c again.

then a 6mm from the load side of the cooker switch to a cooker outlet below.

from the cooker outlet- 1x 6mm supplying 4.5kw cooker and 1x 2.5mm (looks like factory flex) supplying a 8kw hob

I have added the kw's of both the hob and cooker together - took the 1st 10amps and remaining 30%
then I added 5amps (although the single socket is not actually on the cooker switch- but same idea I guess?

i got 28.3amps after diversity- so no problems on the overload side I guess.

all done fairly well to be honest when it comes to terminations- I am just not sure if I should pull up the 10mm into 6mm and the 2x 6mm doubled up in the supply side of the cooker switch although no cores appear to have been cut?

or am I just over thinking things here? Move on?

joe
 
its the 2.5 flex that worries me i would lower 45a mcb to 32a then take 4mm from the connector blocks to socket then put plug on flex and plug it in then hob is protected to
 
BS1363 plug tops are designed for a max. cable size of 1.5mm. 2.5mm flex ( generally heat resistant tri-rated for cookers ) should be hard-wired into a FCU, D/P switch, or similar compliant device.
 
i taught it was said that the hob was supplyed from a 45a breaker(as well as cooker) on a 2.5 flex so the cable wouldnt take a fault so a plug and socket would fuse it down to make it safe or i read it wrong
 
i taught it was said that the hob was supplyed from a 45a breaker(as well as cooker) on a 2.5 flex so the cable wouldnt take a fault so a plug and socket would fuse it down to make it safe or i read it wrong

With an 8KW induction hob connected to it I think that your plug and socket will be far more dangerous! That's going to become a nice hot fire hazard pretty damned quickly!

What fault are you expecting that 2.5 flex to take? Obviously not an overload fault thanks to the nature of the load.
 

Reply to Cooker switch DIY in the Periodic Inspection Reporting & Certification area at ElectriciansForums.net

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Electrician Courses Green Electrical Goods PCB Way Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Pushfit Wire Connectors Electric Underfloor Heating Electrician Courses
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc
This website was designed, optimised and is hosted by Untold Media. Operating under the name Untold Media since 2001.
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock