Discuss Do you lock off? in the Industrial Electricians' Talk area at ElectriciansForums.net

Do you lock off?

  • Always

    Votes: 14 21.9%
  • Usually

    Votes: 8 12.5%
  • Sometimes

    Votes: 16 25.0%
  • Rarely

    Votes: 14 21.9%
  • Never

    Votes: 12 18.8%

  • Total voters
    64
I see the point about being able to replace a fuse into the slot.
Is not the barrier requirement for both live parts and the front of an enclosure IP2X ? This would be afforded by the fuse base surely, therefore not leaving exposed live parts ?

It is indeed.
 
Indeed. And the poll is about what you actually do rather than what you think you should do! :wink:


True, but I would like to think we are discussing the use of safe isolation rather than what we may do. Because as strange as it sounds I am sure there will be some who read this and think that we as competent sparks don't need to safely isolate so they don't need to neither.

I suppose one way of covering our backsides would be to say we have carried out a dynamic risk assessment.
 
I took the meaning as "do we practice what we preach." The degree of safe isolation (in a domestic) is proportional to the circumstances . You have to know that the circuit cannot be energized except by you.
 
I always attach a 'do not switch on' sign in front of the DB, and keep the fuse in my pocket or lock the mcb off if there is anyone else in the building. Unless I am in a position to see anyone approach the DB
 
I'll echo what's been said already. I work in commercial/industrial and we have been provided with the very fetching bumbag lock off kit. If it's seen or found out we have not applied the rams set out and not used a lock off kit its gross misconduct and up the road you go minus the van keys!! I have however been guilty in the past of not locking off whilst doing homers or working in my own house. It's very easy to get relaxed around the potential killer of electricity because we work with it every day and getting a "belt" somehow comes as part of the job! It shouldn't and no ones life is worth taking chances.
 
Domestic !!
Remove cover, disconnect circuit cables from breaker, replace cover.
Started in the trade 1970, still here and going strong.
Works for me.
Commercial different ball game, but your after the same end result.
Working on an electrical circuit without causing harm to yourself, another person, or the installation.
 
I know you're always supposed to lock off, but as others have said you do your own risk assessment - if everyone in the house knows you're working on the electrics, you've told them you're going to knock the power off for a bit, even put a bit of tape and maybe a note on the MCB, what's the likelihood of someone coming along and turning it back on without you noticing?
 
I know you're always supposed to lock off, but as others have said you do your own risk assessment - if everyone in the house knows you're working on the electrics, you've told them you're going to knock the power off for a bit, even put a bit of tape and maybe a note on the MCB, what's the likelihood of someone coming along and turning it back on without you noticing?

When its physically as easy as flicking a switch, very likely.
Treat all around you as if there idiots, because one day, one will be.
Notices and tape over breakers stop nobody.
I take the cables out of the breaker cover back on.
Its never let me down.
 
When its physically as easy as flicking a switch, very likely.
Treat all around you as if there idiots, because one day, one will be.
Notices and tape over breakers stop nobody.
I take the cables out of the breaker cover back on.
Its never let me down.
It isn't just 'flicking a switch' though, it's resetting an MCB, which most people know turns off if something has gone wrong, is generally not used for functional switching, and is likely to be out of the way in a cupboard, often with a cover over the switches.

In a commercial or industrial environment then yes if the lights are off you can almost guarantee some helpful such and such will come along, make disappointed noises and blindly start trying all the light switches without giving the matter any thought whatsoever, but in someone's house it's easier to tell everyone not to turn anything on for a bit.

As I've already said it depends on the individual situation - if you've got plasterers wanting to use their paddle and chippies wanting to use their jigsaw they probably won't think twice about fiddling around in the CU to get what they want and to hell with everyone else, but if you're the only one in the house, you can hear if the front door opens, and anyone has to go past you to get to the CU, you can be pretty certain the cct isn't going to get re-energised accidentally.
 
As you say its all part and parcel to risk assessment.
I guess its down to how much of a risk your going to take.
All I can say is my tickers almost 62 years old, and its served me well in the industry up to now.
That's my reasoning for isolating the circuit in such a way that its not a 5 second flip the breaker back on scenario.
We all take our choices in this game. :biggrin:
 
Changed that for you.

I have (read, had) a pair of sidecutters that would disagree with your original quote. I once let myself be cajoled into using a voltstick mid cable on a job that was not my own. One of the very few times I have neglected to safely isolate, but one of the biggest reminders. Also the first time I ever used a voltstick, and one has not been in my hand since.

They have their place. Twice in one week just before christmas i was working on wood pile mounted streetlights. I had to replace some burnt out components and my fluke voltage tester showed the circuit to be dead, but voltage indicator indicated voltage there.

I followed the overhead supply back to the lines and visually discovered a burnt out neutral giving me no reference point on the fluke.

I also use one to quickly check polarity, or fuses without pulling the bullet and doing a continuity check.

It's all about knowing their uses and limitations.
 
I have said it before on this forum and will say it again, a voltstick is only useful for stirring your brew, Why anyone would feel confidence with one is beyond me.
Also while on the subject of safe isolation, less than 2 weeks ago we tested a couple of offices/ cabins for a regular customer which threw up some remedial work one of the jobs was to replace 25 socket fronts that due to being painted had started causing issues when trying to switch the sockets off on the faceplate.
So in we go saturday morning ( only time we could shut it down ) anyway in the board there are 4 mcb's 3 x 20 for sockets 1 x 6a for lights I switched off all 3 socket mcbs but my socket tester still indicated power so even turned off the lighting with no luck.
The long and short of it was the mcb for my required cicruit had gone faulty so still allowed voltage through. I bet a lot of guys would have not tested the socket if they had all circuits isolated, that's why it's crucial to test, test, test.
 
I have said it before on this forum and will say it again, a voltstick is only useful for stirring your brew, Why anyone would feel confidence with one is beyond me.
Also while on the subject of safe isolation, less than 2 weeks ago we tested a couple of offices/ cabins for a regular customer which threw up some remedial work one of the jobs was to replace 25 socket fronts that due to being painted had started causing issues when trying to switch the sockets off on the faceplate.
So in we go saturday morning ( only time we could shut it down ) anyway in the board there are 4 mcb's 3 x 20 for sockets 1 x 6a for lights I switched off all 3 socket mcbs but my socket tester still indicated power so even turned off the lighting with no luck.
The long and short of it was the mcb for my required cicruit had gone faulty so still allowed voltage through. I bet a lot of guys would have not tested the socket if they had all circuits isolated, that's why it's crucial to test, test, test.

If you mean a neon tester, I agree. BUT i stand by my 'considered' use of a non contact voltage indicator for the reasons stated in my post.

Voltz (stick). lol.
 
Don't forget safe isolation can also help uncover nasty surprises like this.

image.jpg

Yes that is a shared neutral taken from a socket, as the light switch only had a permanent live at it. The socket was just beneath the switch.
 
If you mean a neon tester, I agree. BUT i stand by my 'considered' use of a non contact voltage indicator for the reasons stated in my post.

Voltz (stick). lol.

Shut up ya baby ---- ha ha
 

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