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dnjr

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Dear All
Have to terminate 2 x 10mm t&e cables in a back box and isolator switch ( for a shower )
Gone for a double 46mm box and cooker switch but can’t find a tidy way to dress the cables into the box
So. What do people do. Cut them shorter and pre bend etc or leave them longer and curl them around the box
Don’t have popeye hands and am struggling
Advise appreciated
Ta
 
Hi westward
That was my thinking but don’t have the finger strength any more to dress the properly
What are you calling Short and what length would you suggest leaving
( got 10 of these yo do !!!!)
Cheers
tort
Do not cut them short, dress them around the bacck box
 
easy peasy, unless its the smokeless cable

leave a little spare above the box for you to work with, connect the cables as normal, slide the cables back into the wall above the backbox, like a glove.
 
easy peasy, unless its the smokeless cable

leave a little spare above the box for you to work with, connect the cables as normal, slide the cables back into the wall above the backbox, like a glove.
No room behind the back box unfortunately
 
Hi westward
That was my thinking but don’t have the finger strength any more to dress the properly
What are you calling Short and what length would you suggest leaving
( got 10 of these yo do !!!!)
Cheers
tort
When I say short do not cut them so you cannot pull the front plate forward a sensible distance. I would have a bit of practice by screwing a back box to a board with a couple of bits of 10mm.
 
Corner to corner of the box ( so it can reach the furthest point as a rule of thumb then fold it round to where it's got to go. As mentioned above a nice deep box helps
 
Perhaps short side entry, run length of box, gentle u turn, return half way and 90 bend to face plate. Length approx 2 x box and trim to fit. Do a practice one ?
 
Terminating 10.0mm at domestic grade accessories has never been ideal and this is why you see so many burnt out conductors at pull cord isolators, inadequate space placing undue stress on conductor connections which nine times out of ten have exposed conductors pushed through back boxes and exposed in the ceiling cavity.
 
Terminating 10.0mm at domestic grade accessories has never been ideal and this is why you see so many burnt out conductors at pull cord isolators, inadequate space placing undue stress on conductor connections which nine times out of ten have exposed conductors pushed through back boxes and exposed in the ceiling cavity.
Agree. 10 can be a bugger to get in right without then later coming loose when you screw it. I sometimes warm it up a little first by giving it a good rub. Hold it with one hand and have a good cloth or glove on the other hand to rub with. Hasnt dissapointed me yet and the cold weather dont help either. A bit like conduit.
All too often i have come across 10mm with strands either purposely cut off or snapped leaving just 2 or 3 strands in the terminal. Some people are lazy
 
All good advice,but two additional things to assist,are warming things up,by using a fan heater,or similar,can ease tight bends.
Also,leave final insulation stripping,until after cables are curled in position,so cores remain even and exposed correctly.
 
10mm is a pain in this instance. Agree with much that has been said, and I would also make sure that the cables were coming into the back-box correctly. By that I mean decide on what switch is being used, and bring the cables in accordingly - i.e. neutrals on the left, lives on the right, or vice versa. A nice deep 2G pattress as you have decided on will help a lot. Also try to get as much as the grey sheath off as possible. Finally, I think it would be easier also if the supply and feed cables came in from top and bottom, rather than both cables entering together through the top or bottom.
 
Shower switch outside the bathroom in a 47mm double metal backbox buried if possible is the best looking solution in my opinion.
Pull switches are outdated but if you have no choice then Crabtree’s is the one you want.
Nice and round so you don’t have to worry about lining it up as well.
Go either side of the joist if in the loft area with the cable entries into the switch ,fix with a couple of 2” 10 screws to joist, job done.
 
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