electrical installation on a floating dwelling

[pirate]

Like I said, double-double insulation, Andy. It's actually quite a good fun task.

 

[Andy78]

nice gun boat Andy ,are you making sh77 shape for going to pick up some passengers across the pond near Calais France.

That's a proper boat, Andy!

Yeah 'tis a proper boat isn't it ? Will be my brother's new home when finished. So much to do on it but will be great when finished.

We are currently busy ripping out the "renovation" done 15 years ago. What a bodge. Taped connections on all circuits, polystyrene used as insulation holding moisture against the steel hull, flammable materials used in the bedroom ceilings. It's a start again job.... for everything.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Yeah 'tis a proper boat isn't it ? Will be my brother's new home when finished. So much to do on it but will be great when finished.

We are currently busy ripping out the "renovation" done 15 years ago. What a bodge. Taped connections on all circuits, polystyrene used as insulation holding moisture against the steel hull, flammable materials used in the bedroom ceilings. It's a start again job.... for everything.

I will try a dig guy martins number out for you to give some tips .

 

[Andy78]

I will try a dig guy martins number out for you to give some tips .

It's the DIY sos lot I really need

 

[pirate]

Loving that project, Andy! Boats are such amazing renovation jobs.
Stay away from the fine-stranded cabling though...

 

[Sintra]

@Andy78 have a look at this thread as it mentions the required standards. Ship Wiring Regulations - https://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/threads/ship-wiring-regulations.102111/

 

[Andy78]

@Andy78 have a look at this thread as it mentions the required standards. Ship Wiring Regulations - https://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/threads/ship-wiring-regulations.102111/

Ah that's great ! did a search of the forum but missed this one.

 

[pirate]

Good shout there, but it's a boat, not a ship...wire it in 4mm singles for the 12v side and all will be well
(apart from the windlass and starter motors, obviously)

 

[Andy78]

Good shout there, but it's a boat, not a ship...wire it in 4mm singles for the 12v side and all will be well
(apart from the windlass and starter motors, obviously)

I'll not be touching the engine room wires or any of the 12V gubbins that runs up to the wheelhouse. That job can be for the professional tinkerers. It just about limped to it's current residence with the gear actuators blowing a boxful of relays in the process. It won't need to move for a year now so that's not a priority really.

It's a mess in the engine room. Two huge double decker bus engines live in there hibernating in a nest of diesel and oil. Water has stopped coming in though which is nice
My brother did make me laugh with his story about his leaky stern glands.

 

[telectrix]

are they gardiner diesels. about 10l each?

 

[haptism]

I would recommend hooking up a sacrificial (galvanic) annode to the hull if its steel and submerged, it prevents the hull from rusting. Its like the same principle as derusting stuff with electrolysis. Alot of boats in the water with electric running through can make the water more corrosive. Think of the boat without a galvanic annode like, i dunno, a car with a badly rusted whhel arch, !

 

[Andy78]

are they gardiner diesels. about 10l each?

Not sure really, but can try and find out next week.

EDIT: Just found out, they are Leyland AJ6 engines

 

[telectrix]

if they are the LXB as on a bus, they're a belting engine.i had 1 on a double decker bus converted to live in. started 1st time after standing 2 years. don't forget. on a boat you run them on red diesel. less than half the price. in summer they will run on chip oil,

 

[Andy78]

if they are the LXB as on a bus, they're a belting engine.i had 1 on a double decker bus converted to live in. started 1st time after standing 2 years. don't forget. on a boat you run them on red diesel. less than half the price. in summer they will run on chip oil,

Here they are.

 

[pirate]

Nice enough, but not real Gardners!

Also, factor in some windpower chargers for the batteries...they ain't pretty, but they do work!

 

[pirate]

and you still have to pay tax on red diesel...you only get a tax break if the fuel is for heating/cooking, typically 10 or 20 percent, if you are lucky...unless it is a commercial vessel.

 

[pirate]

 

[davesparks]

I've just started exploring this world myself as my new girlfriend owns and lives on a narrowboat.

 

[buzzlightyear]

I've just started exploring this world myself as my new boyfriend owns and lives on a. Banana boat

 

[happysteve]

BS EN 10133 is what you need for the 12V (or 24V) DC side of things, and BS EN 13297 for the 230V bits. I'll try to summarise the main bits of the former.

Blue Sea Systems do good quality panels and switchgear (at least, their DC stuff is good, don't know about their AC stuff). I upgraded the wiring on the last boat I owned.



I lived on narrowboats (prior to getting the Zeeschouw) for about 10 years.

Some random bits from BS EN 10133 (that's different from BS7671):

- hull can be grounded (usually is, at the engine) but obviously you can't use the hull as a conductor. Only grounding the negative conductor in this way is permitted.

- 10% voltage drop permitted, however, some circuits will "typically require" 3% or less: panel boards, nav lights, bilge blowers, bilge pumps, other equipment where specified by manufacturer

- batteries shouldn't be able to move more than 10mm (horizontally or vertically). You need to supply leaking electrolyte containment for tilts up to 45 deg.

- need a battery-disconnector switch on positive conductor, easily reachable, as close as practicable to the batteries (exceptions for things like solar panels, bilge pumps etc as long as they have a protective device close to the battery).

- flexible or stranded insulated conductors, fire-retardant material, e.g. not supporting combustion in absence of flames

- conductors in engine room at least 70C and rated oil resistant, or protected by insulating conduit or sleeving

- minimum support distance 450mm, or 300mm on cable to battery switch.

- minimum size for singles = 1mm, for multi-core flex 0.75mm (except for panel boards, where 0.75mm singles can be used)

- not in same containment as AC wiring. If not separated by partition etc, then minimum distance in free space = 100mm

- DC negative conductors should be black, or yellow (unless you're using black in AC, in which case, use yellow). Black or yellow must not be used for DC positive. Avoid use of brown, white or light blue in DC system, if AC is present on boat.

- terminate appropriately, e.g. "no bare wires to stud or screw connections"

- socket outlets should not be interchangeable AC and DC

The usual restrictions about IP ratings etc apply.

In practice, invest in lots of flexible PVC conduit. Run your DC singles through it (generally red and black), and (generally) AC flex through it (separate ones, obviously) too, for getting it around the boat.

Hope that's helpful