• IMPORTANT: Please note that nobody on this forum should be seeking from or providing advice to those who are not competent and / or trained and qualified in their field (local laws permitting). There is a discussion thread on this global industry-wide matter HERE. This also has more information about the warning with regards to sharing electrical advice in some countries. By using this forum you do so in agreement to this.

Discuss Extending 2.5mm in a backbox in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

Welcome to ElectriciansForums.net - The American Electrical Advice Forum
Head straight to the main forums to chat by click here:   American Electrical Advice Forum

Reaction score
1
Hi,
Just replacing some kitchen sockets and the existing wiring wont reach the new sockets as the N & L are reversed. It's been a while since I did any of this as my qualifications are in industrial electronics. Firstly can I use 30A connector block? or Wago connectors? and if they wont fit in the back box would I be allowed a solder joint with heatshrink?
Many thanks
Ian
 
wagos OK, i prefer the ideal in line connectors as per sparkychick.
 
Hi,
Just replacing some kitchen sockets and the existing wiring wont reach the new sockets as the N & L are reversed. It's been a while since I did any of this as my qualifications are in industrial electronics. Firstly can I use 30A connector block? or Wago connectors? and if they wont fit in the back box would I be allowed a solder joint with heatshrink?
Many thanks
Ian
How many cables, not conductors are you looking to join in this box?
 
Personally I wouldn’t solder, melting point of solder is pretty low - this will melt first. Preference would be Wago (32A) connectors first and then inline crimped connectors where space is a premium. I would also consider using this box for connections only and use a blank faceplate. This allows inspection and identifies what you’ve done.
 
Personally I wouldn’t solder, melting point of solder is pretty low - this will melt first. Preference would be Wago (32A) connectors first and then inline crimped connectors where space is a premium. I would also consider using this box for connections only and use a blank faceplate. This allows inspection and identifies what you’ve done.
i think if the temperature behind the sockets got up to the melting point of solder (180 c ish) you would have other things to worry about
 
Agreed Kenny, lol, you would. This thought was based on seeing tests in the past on various connectors during an deliberate overload. The connectors; wago, crimps and the classic terminal block all did well despite melted insulation. The soldered connection faired badly because the mechanical connection fails asap the solder starts to melt - this demo just put me off the idea.
 
Agreed Kenny, lol, you would. This thought was based on seeing tests in the past on various connectors during an deliberate overload. The connectors; wago, crimps and the classic terminal block all did well despite melted insulation. The soldered connection faired badly because the mechanical connection fails asap the solder starts to melt - this demo just put me off the idea.
 
A soldered joint, if it is skilfully soldered and not just plastered with solder, is an excellent connection that will have better conductivity and durability than any of the others. Poor workmanship can let it down, however, and there is more to insulating a joint that sliding any old bit of heatshrink over it. Site-applied insulation should be as good as the original cable insulation and often one finds heatshrink of the wrong wall thickness, or rough surfaces on the joint that nearly puncture it, etc. Saying that solder joints are suspect due to the melting point of solder, is like advising not to use rubber tyres on your car because rubber is combustible!

Inline crimps used on solid conductors must be suitable for the purpose and made with the correct die set and tool. Many are not, and I would rank a generic red or blue crimp made with a.n. other tool as the least satisfactory choice.

Terminal block is OK again if of good quality and properly installed, but Wagos / equivalent would always be my first choice for general all-round suitability.
 
Last edited:
I’ll consider myself corrected regarding melting point of solder and will never mention it again without throwing myself naked into the nettle patch. I would still not advise someone to solder connections - Luciens remarks about skilled soldering stand but not everyone can solder and I would be nervous if someone unskilled read this forum thread and went away considering that soldering a good idea over a connector. I think that was the point I was trying to get across.
 
soldered joints were 100% using decent 7 strand cable, twisted neatly before soldering. now we're lumbered with this solid strand crap, makes it harder to get a sound connection.
 
Fair point l4urence, there are lots of people who can stick two wires together with a bit of solder, but fewer who can make a joint worthy of the name. Certainly for the jobbing spark a Wago is likely to do a better job than a so-so soldered effort.
 
Fair point l4urence, there are lots of people who can stick two wires together with a bit of solder, but fewer who can make a joint worthy of the name. Certainly for the jobbing spark a Wago is likely to do a better job than a so-so soldered effort.
You could always try this method.
 

Reply to Extending 2.5mm in a backbox in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

This website was designed, optimised and is hosted by Untold Media. Operating under the name Untold Media since 2001.
Back
Top