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M

MikeGT729

Hi

Firstly I don't have any electrical qualifications, but I am undertaking an installation which will be certified by the local council, however I have to get it to first fix before they will come out, so want to ensure I get it right first time.

Installation is in a utility building, with its own mini consumer unit, 63a main fuse, with a 32a and 6a breakers (if I remember right, I'll update this if I've remembered wrong). I've already installed all of the conduit, 20mm pvc. Wanting to use conduit cable, as T+E would be too tight of a squeeze in places.

Load will be minimal, going for 1.5mm for lighting (LED), however not sure what to use for main wire in from house and for the sockets circuit. Fuse where I'll be connecting to in the house consumer unit is 32a.

2 main loads on circuits will be tumble dryer and an electric heater, both around 2kw. Also considering a solar battery storage at some point in future if that impacts. What size cable would be required?

To summarize, need to know

Cable size for house to mini consumer unit

Cable size for sockets circuit.

Let me know if you need more info.

Much appreciated in advance

Mike
 
I will come straight out and say I am sceptical and think you might be a DIY'er doing a notifiable job and just saying you have told building control and come on here looking for step by step guidance.
Not being funny but the cost of getting a qualified electrician in to do the job properly and the cost of notifying building control won't be much different. a non qualified person going via the council building control will typically pay around £400+ in fees. then you have materials on top.
its probably no more expensive to get a electrician in they will do it properly, certify and notify it for you.
So don't go working beyond your abilities and call a professional in.
 
Hi

Firstly I don't have any electrical qualifications, but I am undertaking an installation which will be certified by the local council, however I have to get it to first fix before they will come out, so want to ensure I get it right first time.

Installation is in a utility building, with its own mini consumer unit, 63a main fuse, with a 32a and 6a breakers (if I remember right, I'll update this if I've remembered wrong). I've already installed all of the conduit, 20mm pvc. Wanting to use conduit cable, as T+E would be too tight of a squeeze in places.

Load will be minimal, going for 1.5mm for lighting (LED), however not sure what to use for main wire in from house and for the sockets circuit. Fuse where I'll be connecting to in the house consumer unit is 32a.

2 main loads on circuits will be tumble dryer and an electric heater, both around 2kw. Also considering a solar battery storage at some point in future if that impacts. What size cable would be required?

To summarize, need to know

Cable size for house to mini consumer unit

Cable size for sockets circuit.

Let me know if you need more info.

Much appreciated in advance

Mike
from the questions you are asking, i very much doubt that you are proficient enough to undertake this work. it's a lot more than installing a few cables and fixtures. there's calculations involving maths, cable ratings dependant on the installation method, and a lot more. this is why it takes 5 -7 years to train as a sparks.
 
Hi Mike, if you are attempting an electrical installation you should get a copy of BS7671 and have a read. This will answer some of your questions and get you thinking about things.
Not sure that will help someone with no qualifications come to think of it the same can be said of people with qualifications :eek:
 
This isn't a complicated install, and it's being checked and signed off by a part p certified person, so I don't see the issue?

I just need to know what size cable to use for the 2 elements I've noted, and that should be all I'll need.
 
This isn't a complicated install, and it's being checked and signed off by a part p certified person, so I don't see the issue?

I thought you said it was a building control signing it off? normally they are more than just part p. part p means bugger all when you break it down., my local council insist on using known and experienced electricians with nvq3 2394/2395 etc etc for building control ordered inspections. the electrician working for the council is in effect a temp. building inspector and is covered by the council and not his own business liability.

Also, I sure as heck wouldnt sign off on other peoples work. only stroma and i think napit allow certain assessed sparks to do 3rd party sign offs.

Also maybe I am wrong but i think as part of 3rd party sign offs you are meant to get the design and plans approved by the 3rd party electrician before starting, then at first fix and finally 2nd fix and initial verification for certs to be issued.
 
I rang BCO and asked whether I could do the install myself, they knew I wasn't qualified, and they said yes, but I would have to have the electrician who works for the council come out and certify, which costs £360, which seemed fine given the few prices I'd had for other jobs.
 
I rang BCO and asked whether I could do the install myself, they knew I wasn't qualified, and they said yes, but I would have to have the electrician who works for the council come out and certify, which costs £360, which seemed fine given the few prices I'd had for other jobs.

You are not comparing apples with Apple's. £360 plus VAT is for them just coming to inspect..... No advice, nothing else
 
I think you may be forgetting the extra visits when they have to come back after not signing it off. As you say it shouldn't be an issue as it is only two circuits. That rather flies in the face of the information you have been given if you read carefully. You have been told that it is more than two circuits there are other background factors which are too complex to lay out here. For instance do you have a TN-C-S system or a TNS or possibly (rarely) a TT? Are you aware of the implications of exporting PME to other locations? Can you calculate the volt drop for the run? As stated there is more to it the a "couple of circuits" Now... I am not decrying the DIY attempt and personally I am all for you doing this and applaud your sense of adventure for want of a better word. If I were to do the work for you I would have to check with ESF whether your tumble dryer is subject to recall, have you done that? Tumble dryers have a terrible safety record and quite often burn out cabling. Anyway to answer your question, usually SWA is used to supply outbuildings. Terminating SWA is a skill you would have to master to install it. It would need to be buried circa 18 inches underground and properly marked and the correct gradient of stone laid around it. You could use 2.5mm² or 4 mm ² on a 32a MCB. You have not asked about RCD which is rather worrying as it may indicate you are starting from a point of knowledge which is inadequate. Where are you going to use the conduit just in the utility room? because outside you need to use the right colour. Now, again I am all for you doing this, but this is what it involves. Quite apart from BC signing it off all these points will have to be addressed and of course you are the person who will rely on the safety of the design and of course your family. Now...do you want to call an electrician? or are you going to brave it?
 
OK, like I said, I'll give BCO a ring Monday and double check.
I think you may be forgetting the extra visits when they have to come back after not signing it off. As you say it shouldn't be an issue as it is only two circuits. That rather flies in the face of the information you have been given if you read carefully. You have been told that it is more than two circuits there are other background factors which are too complex to lay out here. For instance do you have a TN-C-S system or a TNS or possibly (rarely) a TT? Are you aware of the implications of exporting PME to other locations? Can you calculate the volt drop for the run? As stated there is more to it the a "couple of circuits" Now... I am not decrying the DIY attempt and personally I am all for you doing this and applaud your sense of adventure for want of a better word. If I were to do the work for you I would have to check with ESF whether your tumble dryer is subject to recall, have you done that? Tumble dryers have a terrible safety record and quite often burn out cabling. Anyway to answer your question, usually SWA is used to supply outbuildings. Terminating SWA is a skill you would have to master to install it. It would need to be buried circa 18 inches underground and properly marked and the correct gradient of stone laid around it. You could use 2.5mm² or 4 mm ² on a 32a MCB. You have not asked about RCD which is rather worrying as it may indicate you are starting from a point of knowledge which is inadequate. Where are you going to use the conduit just in the utility room? because outside you need to use the right colour. Now, again I am all for you doing this, but this is what it involves. Quite apart from BC signing it off all these points will have to be addressed and of course you are the person who will rely on the safety of the design and of course your family. Now...do you want to call an electrician? or are you going to brave it?

The building is joined to the house. All conduit is internal, no part of the installation will run external.

Main CU has RCD protection, as does the mini CU which I bought for the utility. I didn't ask about RCD as I'm well aware of it.

Dryer hasn't been bought yet.

I really don't see the problem in me doing this if a professional is going to check it, test it and sign it off? I'm just doing the labour really.

Is it really this complex? The other jobs we've had done were as simple as anything, hence why I thought I'd do this one this way.
 

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