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Mazza78

Hi.Im a new apprentice electrician and was after some advice on fixings please!? I today's had to fit an emergency exit sign in stud wall but it had double layered plasterboard. I thought plasterboard fixings(pig tails) would work but they never gripped and kept spinning out! Am I using wrong fixing or doing something wrong!?
Thanks
 

Thanks for that. Can't understand why the plasterboard fixing doesn't work at all. I took my time screwing it in but as soon as put screw in it spins and comes out!? Confused
 
Did you use the screw that come with the fixing , if you use differnt screws you can easy over tighten the fixing and it will come out, and if you try and un screw it it will pull it out, these types of fixings are not the best and will only hold small loads

Lee beat me to it :)
 
Thanks for that. Can't understand why the plasterboard fixing doesn't work at all. I took my time screwing it in but as soon as put screw in it spins and comes out!? Confused
Hi Mazza- plaster is only strong in compression which is why the toggle fitting can work better. A screw thread will always tend to expand plasterboard and cause it to fail locally. Likewise, a plug will tend to expand the plaster and not grip when a screw is driven in.
 
Did you use the screw that come with the fixing , if you use differnt screws you can easy over tighten the fixing and it will come out, and if you try and un screw it it will pull it out, these types of fixings are not the best and will only hold small loads

Lee beat me to it :)

Hi Lee

Yes mate I used the ones that came with it in the trade tubs. They got 3/4 the way in the went really tight then twisted out. What difference does the 4mm pilot hole do which was suggested earlier!? Thanks
 
The pilot hole enables the course thread of the plasterboard fixing to bite into the plasterboard rather than tear its way in if that makes sense. by drilling a clean 4mm hole the board has a clean hole for the fixing to pass into.
 
For the plasterboard fixings that have tight threads I tend to hold the grip in pliers and run the screw in and out of the fixing to free up the screw threads before screwing it into the plasterboard, then you do not get the pull out but can still screw the fixture in tightly. Just be careful of those that snap off the drill end when the screw is fully home.
 
I hate plasterboard walls but I guess they are now accepted as one of life's necessities and I'm just a grumpy old g*t. :rolleyes:
 
For the plasterboard fixings that have tight threads I tend to hold the grip in pliers and run the screw in and out of the fixing to free up the screw threads before screwing it into the plasterboard, then you do not get the pull out but can still screw the fixture in tightly. Just be careful of those that snap off the drill end when the screw is fully home.
Funny you mention that i have had to do that with a batch i brought from screwfix they were branded rawlplug so I thought they were a good quality. The screws are pan head and i tried to screw them into the galvanised board fixings and not one will screw in easily they just dont match the thread inside the fixing. I used your method to rethread the fixings so to speak so I know that the screw wont tear out the board fixing but its just poor quality fixings from a so called well known brand.
 
For fixing lightweight things to plasterboard the Rawlplug 'Uno' plugs work well, tap them in to a 6mm hole and the screws tighten in really nicely.
 
It's quite obvious that well known retailers are selling products that are not fit for purpose. You would have thought they would have at least carried out some basic checks.
 
I gave up using supplied screws with cavity fixings years ago. They are usually longer than needed and need to break off the end off the anchor to get right through, this is where they can spin. PZ2 driver as a starter hole and 1" twinthread woodscrew does the job every time. I save the panhead screws for small SWA cleats.

I have found Thorsman to be my favourite cavity screw anchor.
 

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