Discuss FLUKE 1652 Continuity Test in the Periodic Inspection Reporting & Certification area at ElectriciansForums.net

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J

jon one

Hello people.

I'm a gold card holding spark with a commercial background (metal munchin'). Recently I've got a job 2nd fixing flats, no problems except i didn't have a test rig so i bought a Fluke 1652 one 2nd hand, had it calibrated and changed the batteries.

The problem is with the continuity test, i get wildly different and deeply unlikely results. Now i know how to test ('cos i'm a spark) so i'm hoping that someone with a 1652 will give me some hints as to how to get readings i can trust, particularly with the croc clips which seem to be taunting me. I hope its a technique thing. Stupid things that will be bread and butter to someone that uses this sort of meter everyday, but which are costing me time and therefore money.

So if you think you can help i would greatly appreciate it, don't tell me to buy something else though. This tester must work, How can it not?
 
You could be suffering from what I call contact error.
Grind them crocs onto the cables with various degrees of severity and you'll get various readings.
If your readings are within the required limits, I tend not to worry about it.
I doubt if anyone actually reads a schedule of results in any depth.
As long as it says 'Satisfactory'....
 
Stupid answer but just in case, make sure you zero the leads out every time you turn on the mft.
 
As a long standing Fluke user, I'd say Archy and Hawk are on the money. The croc clips (as with any MFT) need to be put on then pressed on to make good contact, and if you buy an MFT second hand, buy some new leads as they don't last especially if they're not looked after (pulled off/out of connections by the lead, stretched, tangled etc etc). It's also worth getting some compressed air in a can and blowing out the connector hole in the tester now and again.
 
Ive just repaired one for a chap at work.
Pull it apart the 4 black screws (after removing the bat) then unclip the yellow tags where the bat goes and pull the top and bottom apart. there are 3 ribon cables that need unplugging and then remove the 2 black screws that clamp the bat box to a pcb. This will allow you to the plug connections where you push the leads in, and im almost sure you will find a crapy solderd joint where the post goes.

There are 2 parts to these and the L and E need to be kept apart so the meter knows when a lead is missing, the N dosent. Resolder the posts and rebuild in reverse order. Good luck

Ed
 
Few years back had problem with cheap leads from ebay, I now get mine from Fluke Norwich and all has been good. As previously said make sure you zero leads first.
 
Hello people.

I'm a gold card holding spark with a commercial background (metal munchin'). Recently I've got a job 2nd fixing flats, no problems except i didn't have a test rig so i bought a Fluke 1652 one 2nd hand, had it calibrated and changed the batteries.

The problem is with the continuity test, i get wildly different and deeply unlikely results. Now i know how to test ('cos i'm a spark) so i'm hoping that someone with a 1652 will give me some hints as to how to get readings i can trust, particularly with the croc clips which seem to be taunting me. I hope its a technique thing. Stupid things that will be bread and butter to someone that uses this sort of meter everyday, but which are costing me time and therefore money.

So if you think you can help i would greatly appreciate it, don't tell me to buy something else though. This tester must work, How can it not?
I'm getting unexpected continuity results from my 1652B as well, on alternator windings 2 Fluke 177s give an expected 1.48 Ohm reading, my bought new 1652 says open circuit - how can that be? - It was calibrated not long ago, I've tested continuity using a 'cal-card', results are as expected, but on the windings it shows >2000 Ohm, no matter how tight I clamp the (6 month old) croc clips.
 
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I'm getting unexpected continuity results from my 1652B as well, on alternator windings 2 Fluke 177s give an expected 1.48 Ohm reading, my bought new 1652 says open circuit - how can that be? - It was calibrated not long ago, I've tested continuity using a 'cal-card', results are as expected, but on the windings it shows >2000 Ohm, no matter how tight I clamp the (6 month old) croc clips.
An interesting one.
Logically, if the CalCard is giving the right numbers, the tester and leads are ok. I'm guessing you used probes for the cal card. So my money is on the croc clips even though they are not that old.
Can you try the same leads and clips on another tester to prove the point?
 
An interesting one.
Logically, if the CalCard is giving the right numbers, the tester and leads are ok. I'm guessing you used probes for the cal card. So my money is on the croc clips even though they are not that old.
Can you try the same leads and clips on another tester to prove the point?
agreed I used clips on the winding and probes on the cal card - but I've just tried it again on another motor winding - same clips/leads on test resistance, 177 showed 10.6 Ohm, removd leads from 177, plugged them into1652b - it showed ERR
 

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