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We have mentioned on here before the perils of buying a new build property!

Downstairs before any carpets go down get yourself one of these saws... set to the right depth you can easily cut out the floorboards if they are the tongue and groove click ones.

Not all new builds are the same, mine been built by quality tradesperson, so get stuffed.

As for lifting glued chipboard, I'd rather go to the dentist and have all me teeth pulled; there's at least two left.
 
new build lofts are the spawn of the devil. trusses that will just about support the roof with not enough room for a pigmy to crawl through. and that's before the 3ft. of itchy-poo goes in.
 
new build lofts are the spawn of the devil. trusses that will just about support the roof with not enough room for a pigmy to crawl through. and that's before the 3ft. of itchy-poo goes in.

Well actually, I could hold a complete orchestra up in mine.
 
Makes me chuckle when customers hear a price like £300 per room to install downlights on on a 'finished/second hand/old' building and think your trying to Rob them. "I could save loads if I did it myself" go ahead... Your life not mine. I mean really.. It's not that much and if you can't afford it, tough it's not a necessity is it.
 
I know that I need IP65 rated down lights in the wet areas as well as making sure all down lights are fire rated. I plan to wire each light in a radial circuit within each room and take the feed
Unless your house is very unusual, you do not need either of those attributes in the downlight.
 
Thank you for all the responses everyone.

I do agree that it would definitely be easier to get the building company to install the down lights however I have done research on the installation of them and it is definitely within my capabilities.

I work with electrics on a day to day basis so I am fully aware of the safety around them, I just don't have the capability to sign my own work off etc.

I know a lot of the responses have been to just pay the building company to install but all I am mainly looking for is, if I wanted to do the work myself, can I in theory? If it goes wrong, I will hire an electrician to come in and resolve it, which I think will still work out cheaper than the £65 per light quoted.
 
Thank you for the response.

I admit it will be easier to get the builder to do it but my logic is to save a fair amount money (around £35/£40 per down light) if possible.

I also won't have any carpets or flooring initially so there won't be any issues in lifting floor boards.
Good luck chances are it won’t be floorboards it will be sheets of osb or chipboard and they were probably put down before the partitions went in
 
I've emailed the sales executive to get an answer from the builder about whether it will be possible to lift the floor up. Sales Exec seems to think it is just screwed in and is a case of unscrewing them but I'd rather have a professional stance on it.

Worst case scenario, I'll saw along the edge of the joist and install new batons when re-fitting the board.
 
I've emailed the sales executive to get an answer from the builder about whether it will be possible to lift the floor up. Sales Exec seems to think it is just screwed in and is a case of unscrewing them but I'd rather have a professional stance on it.

Worst case scenario, I'll saw along the edge of the joist and install new batons when re-fitting the board.

Think you'll find, they are not only screwed down, the joints are also glued and they form part of the integrity of the composite joist system, which most new builds have. I would suggest lifting a complete section almost impossible, sections or holes more appropriate, as already suggested.

As a sparks & new home owner, I would really suggest you re think your strategy, and pay for the cabling etc installed as the place is built.
 
taking the feed from an existing central light position, using wagos in a wagobox , then daisy chaining the downlights is fine. forget 1.5mm use 1.0mm. do the usual tests and complete a MWC for each circuit. as long as you are competent to do the work, then no need to get anyone else involved.
Why forget about 1.5mm?
 

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