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I was hoping to replace a 4-gang light switch with 2 Koogeek smart 2-gang switches.

I removed the front of my existing light switch and discovered there are 7 wires coming into it and what google tells me might be a 'loop in switch'? o_O
I drew a picture:
Help with replacing light switch please {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net


The two new light switches have fewer holes :( :

Help with replacing light switch please {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net

Is it possible to connect my lights to these?

Thanks!
 
I doubt there is a neutral present for your existing wiring, the blue conductor is almost certainly a switch live conductor so it is not going to function.
 
How are you gonna fit 2 x 1 gang switch plates onto a 2 gang back box? Neat drawing btw
 
I doubt there is a neutral present for your existing wiring, the blue conductor is almost certainly a switch live conductor so it is not going to function.
Bugger. I was hoping the blue wire was a neutral.
How are you gonna fit 2 x 1 gang switch plates onto a 2 gang back box? Neat drawing btw
Enlarging the hole in the wall I can manage, but the wiring behind the switch is too complicated for me :0
 
Yes, all the black wires from Wires 1-6 are joined together.
 
Ok thanks again guys, I've been doing more reading.

I could use two Xiaomi Aqara switches instead, they have no neutral.

How would I wire my existing 7 wires to two of these?

Help with replacing light switch please {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net
 
if you have several black conductors giong into a choc block and not connected to the switches, then they will be neutrals.the backbox can be replaced with one that allows for 2 single faceplates. however, i recommend getting a local sparks to fit this for you.less chance of it going bang. whereaboults are you one of us may be close. it's not a wallet emptying cost to have it done professionally.
 
“Blacks are connected together”... read the small print.

Cable 2 appears to be a live feed. 1 and 3 are switch wires to lights.

The other side is a little more complicated, and appears to be using a different live feed? Can you confirm? (Did you have to isolate 2 circuits to make all this safe?)
If so, then all your blacks connected together from both circuits is what is known as a “borrowed” neutral and needs to be fixed.

Agree that you may need professional help with this.
 
“Blacks are connected together”... read the small print.

Cable 2 appears to be a live feed. 1 and 3 are switch wires to lights.

The other side is a little more complicated, and appears to be using a different live feed? Can you confirm? (Did you have to isolate 2 circuits to make all this safe?)
If so, then all your blacks connected together from both circuits is what is known as a “borrowed” neutral and needs to be fixed.

Agree that you may need professional help with this.

Yes, I have to turn off two circuit breakers to disable all the lights on this switch. (It's a kitchen, which was extended before I bought the house).

So I might have neutral wires? That's encouraging! I just packed up the Koogeek switches for return yesterday but I haven't posted them yet! Also haven't yet ordered the Aqara switches although they are sitting in my shopping basket.

Thanks for all the help. I was hoping to be able to do this myself but looking at the existing switch I just don't understand how the circuit works. It looks like it should just catch fire! I will take everyone's advice and find an electrician. I will ask here first! (I'm a few miles outside Cambridge)

I'll have a think about it. I was going to go with Koogeek for Apple's HomeKit but yesterday I set up some extra hardware which means I can now use non-Homekit stuff as well.
 
Not between L1 and L2, no.

I checked again, I made an omission earlier. The 6 black wires from Wires 1-6 are connected together in bunches of 3. The 6 yellow/green wires are all connected together.

I took a photo this time:

Help with replacing light switch please {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net
 
Can you confirm which if any of those switches is or was a 2 way?
The wiring on the 3rd switch is wired as though it were once a 2 way but has since been changed, the 4th switch has strange wiring, it looks like those 2 wires on L1 could have gone to Common, so no need for the strap.
 

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