Induction or Ceramic hob

[ruston]

ps, only downside of an electric hob is that you can't cook on it in a power cut. So I bought a camping gas burner for £12 for use as a backup.

I had one too , I used to carry one when I was working in the sticks to get a decent cup of tea, hot snacks , etc.
Any ---- can rough it lol.

 

[ruston]

Scrap that last question, just tested and there is continuity between the cooker switch and the fused spur so it looks like its all ok. Now before I do anything, would it be acceptable to just get rid of the 13a fused spur and put in a normal junction box and hard wire the new hob to that?

Put in what is shown and suggested by Richard in post 5.

 

[Steviecuk]

Put in what is shown and suggested by Richard in post 5.

So just to be 100% clear, cut a hole above the socket switch, take the second wire out of the existing cooker switch and fit it inline with the splitter in post 5 with the cable still wired to the switch? That way the splitting is done external to the switch.

I'm not questioning you as I don't know myself, but why is it better to do it that way than to just leave the two cables coming directly out of the switch?

 

[ruston]

Do it as shown in the pic . One wire from the outlet to the hob and the other one to the oven .
Looking at your pic the wires are suitable , testing will confirm this.
It is a neater job than just having the cables coming out of the cooker switch; if that is what you are asking.

 

[Rpa07]

I had one too , I used to carry one when I was working in the sticks to get a decent cup of tea, hot snacks , etc.
Any ---- can rough it lol.

All the chippies I've met so far all have one on their hi top vans, I can imagine them whittling a rudimentary shack for their lunch times. Strange bunch, chippies!

 

[Steviecuk]

Hi Rpa, I don't know if I was describing it well enough. At the moment there is one common going into the cooker switch, then there is two load cables coming out, one to the oven and one to a fused spur. ALL wires hidden behind the wall.

My options from what I can see are...

A) Leave the cooker switch as it is with the two load cables splitting at the point of the cooker switch and just replace the fused spur with a junction box so that I can wire the flex from the hob into.

_______ COOKIER SWITCH _________ OVEN
................................l_____________ JUNCTION BOX _____ HOB


OR

B) Take the fused spur cable out of the back of the cooker switch, splice the OVEN lead that is still coming out of the switch and put the splitter in as per post 5, and then run the cables to the oven and hob respectively.

_______ COOKIER SWITCH _____ SPLITTER ____ OVEN
....................................................l_____________ JUNCTION BOX _____ HOB

 

[Rpa07]

Yes, as you do have the two feeds coming from the cooker switch, which is your isolation, you can put single cable outlets for the two separate appliances. Do you know the size of the feed into the cooker switch and the size of the two out from the switch. If they are substantial enough, in this case 4mm to 6 mm as was mentioned earlier (post #15) then that'll make your life easier.

 

[Taylortwocities]

B is better.

Also, make sure that the cables that you use are 6mm2.

 

[telectrix]

to me it looks like a case of just changing the hob socket for a 45A cooker outlet, leaving al the rest as is. just a quick check of tightness of connections. with moving them, they occasionally need a tweak.

 

[Risteard]

I would have a gas hob over a ceramic/induction hob. I have an induction hob at home and cant stand it.

I love my induction hob. I replaced the gas hob after the gas tank froze solid a number of times in the bad winters. (Mains gas wasn't available until more recently and still isn't that common.) In my opinion the induction hob is every bit as controllable as gas and you can heat a pan of water in no time with boost.

 

[ruston]

They look like 6mm and 4mm to me .
The outlet shown in post 5 can easily take 10mm . option B if I am understanding you correctly.
Click 45a Easyfit Dual Cooker Appliance Outlet Plate - https://www.alertelectrical.com/click-45a-easyfit-dual-cooker-appliance-outlet-plate.html

 

[Steviecuk]

option B if I am understanding you correctly.

I need to measure the size of the cables exactly, but I have drawn a diagram by hand of what it's like now (A) of which I would like to just be able to change the '13a fuse' to an oven outlet thing and wire the flex from the new job into that.

And option B using the splitter/dual outlet. However that one will involve cutting into the plasterboard wall, unwiring the socket completely and hiding the splitter box into the wall. Basically a bit more work so I'm hoping that I can just use the spur thatbis already there. Especially as it's already wired to the 32A line and just needs a change of fuse spur to an outlet.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Personally, I don't like unnecessary junctions, especially where higher-currents are involved.
Better to cable direct from the dual outlet directly to the oven and hob.

 

[Rpa07]

Personally, I don't like unnecessary junctions, especially where higher-currents are involved.
Better to cable direct from the dual outlet directly to the oven and hob.

To the OP - as quote above. The double outlet is designed to give your feed strait to the appliance or socket outlet so if designed well with measurements, provide enough cable of the right CSA to terminate direct.

 

[ruston]

As both above , still B but direct from dual outlet , no further junctions needed.
Sorry didn't reply sooner , Just got back from Mexico lol.

 

[Steviecuk]

Thanks for your replies. Please don't think I'm questioning you, I just want to learn, but why is it better to have that's dual splitter and not just keep it as it is with two twin and earth cables coming straight out of the cooker switch? Is there a reason or is it just how you like to do things?

 

[ruston]

Nothing to stop you keeping it as it is if it compliant .
It depends on the situation in your kitchen . Usually the oven and hob are in close proximity so directly below the cooker circuit isolator switch you would usually have an outlet the same as, or similar to the one shown.
As you can see wired from an outlet allows you to replace an appliance without disturbing the fixed wiring.
As long as it is compliant , and preferably neat , really it is fine either way you do it.

 

[Steviecuk]

Thanks Ruston. I mean I'm guessing it's compliant as it's from the original install when the house was built (only 8 years ago).

My issue is that the oven is about 3 meters away from where the hob will be. It's in a tall larder unit as it's a double oven so not next to the hob. If I was to put the dual splitter in I would have to rip the wall apart to find the original wiring behind it just to put the dual splitter in. Then hide it all behind the wall again. Thats why I was hoping to leave it as is and just change the 13A fused spur at the end of the current hob spur.

 

[Midwest]

First off, I would recommend the employment of a competent electrician, to carry out this work.

Either way is suitable, just make sure you have sufficient depth box behind cooker outlet, 47mm minimum and that the faceplate can accept the cables you are going to terminate inside it. If this is a new kitchen, then the cables can be run in the service void behind the units, I normally use the plinth area. The only bit that would need flushing in, is between worktop and faceplate, unless your going for the rustic look!

By the by, the glass surface of a ceramic/induction hobs are a real nightmare to keep clean, even with propriety cleaners!

 

[Rpa07]

"By the by, the glass surface of a ceramic/induction hobs are a real nightmare to keep clean, even with propriety cleaners!"

Way to bring the party down @Midwest - bummer! Parties over everyone, go home -and take your special magnetic saucepans with you!