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Hi all

I've got a new cooker coming next week and was considering wiring it in myself. It will be replacing our existing similar(ish) cooker and is going in the same spot as the old one. But it turns out I might have to get in an electrician to do some checks (see my other post today!) and so I might pay the extra to have them install it for me. In case I don't though, and because I'm a curious sod, I wondered if anyone could answer the things I was unsure about....

1. What cable will I need? I'm thinking 6mm but wanted to double check. The cooker is a Belling FS50EDOPC. The specs are as follows:
- Top Oven. Top heating element 500w... Bottom heating element 600w.... Grill heating element 1400w.
- Main Oven. Top element 1000w.... Bottom element 1000w.... And the circular element 2000w.
- Ceramic hobs.... 145mm Radian 1200W.... 180mm Radiant 1700W

2. The manual says that "‘Twin and Earth 6242Y’ type cable should be used. Is that standard cokoer type cable?

3. Should there be a fuse at isolator switch (there isn't) or just at the consumer unit (there is - 32A). I'm pretty sure that's right but just wanted to check.

4. Do I need to know what wiring there is going from the consumer unit to the isolator, and from the isolator to the cooker connection unit? All of that cable is in the walls. The only externally visible cable is from the CCU to the cooker.

5. The manual says I have to use the anti-tilt part that comes with it. Out existing cooker doesn't have one and is rock solid. Do you use the anti-tilts when you install cookers and do you think they are essential.

Cheers!

Max
 
Hi all

I've got a new cooker coming next week and was considering wiring it in myself. It will be replacing our existing similar(ish) cooker and is going in the same spot as the old one. But it turns out I might have to get in an electrician to do some checks (see my other post today!) and so I might pay the extra to have them install it for me. In case I don't though, and because I'm a curious sod, I wondered if anyone could answer the things I was unsure about....

1. What cable will I need? I'm thinking 6mm but wanted to double check. The cooker is a Belling FS50EDOPC. The specs are as follows:
- Top Oven. Top heating element 500w... Bottom heating element 600w.... Grill heating element 1400w.
- Main Oven. Top element 1000w.... Bottom element 1000w.... And the circular element 2000w.
- Ceramic hobs.... 145mm Radian 1200W.... 180mm Radiant 1700W

2. The manual says that "‘Twin and Earth 6242Y’ type cable should be used. Is that standard cokoer type cable?

3. Should there be a fuse at isolator switch (there isn't) or just at the consumer unit (there is - 32A). I'm pretty sure that's right but just wanted to check.

4. Do I need to know what wiring there is going from the consumer unit to the isolator, and from the isolator to the cooker connection unit? All of that cable is in the walls. The only externally visible cable is from the CCU to the cooker.

5. The manual says I have to use the anti-tilt part that comes with it. Out existing cooker doesn't have one and is rock solid. Do you use the anti-tilts when you install cookers and do you think they are essential.

Cheers!

Max
Does the manual say what size 6242y cable should be used, I'm sure it would
 
Unfortunately not. It's one of those manuals that covers several models and so it depends on what the nameplate says (which I won't know until it gets here).

All it says RE cables is: The following diameters of the supply cables must be used in the case of a one phase connection:

3 x 2.5 mm2 for 5000W - 9500W at 240V
3 x 4.0 mm2 for > 9500W at 240V.
 
The manufacturers rating for this cooker is 45amp, there are too many unknowns in your post to answer you accurately, how far away is the cooker to the consumer unit, what cable is there already etc etc. For these reasons and the fact that you state there is a 32amp fuse in your CU this is a job for an electrician.
 
Hi rolyberkin.

Where did you find the 45amp rating please?

Also, not sure what you mean when you say "you state you intimate there is a 32amp fuse in your CU". There is definitely a 32amp fuse for the cooker in the CU. But perhaps I misunderstood you?

Yeah, I think I will get someone to hook it up, but I'm still curious to know. I like to learn :)
 
Hi snowhead

Yep, page 12 is where I was quoting from above when I gave the power ratings of the various parts.

I'm a vegan ( :) ) but fair point re the anti tilt. Do electricians tend to put the anti tilt part in place as part of a fit?
 
not a great expense for an electrician to check it for you and, if the installation of youyr wiring is sound and adequate, connect it up. post your location. 1 of us may be close.
 
unless the cable runs through insulation, 6mm on a 32A breaker is usually adequate., allowing for diversity. that cooker will never pull average of > 22A.
 
Does the manual really say use t&e........ That's a Carp solution if you ask me

Yes and it also says suitable for use by 8 year olds although I doubt they'd be able to lift a 90lb turkey, so the anti tilt may not be required when oven is used by an 8 year old.;

General Safety Warnings
-
This appliance can be used by children aged
from 8 years and above and persons with
reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities
or lack of experience and knowledge if they have
been given supervision or instruction concerning
use of the appliance in a safe way and
understand the hazards involved. Children shall
not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user
maintenance shall not be made by children
without supervision.
 
Does the manual really say use t&e........ That's a Carp solution if you ask me
Never understood why cooker outlet plates have clamps clearly designed for T&E cables which are clearly not suitable for purpose.
 
Never understood why cooker outlet plates have clamps clearly designed for T&E cables which are clearly not suitable for purpose.
then there's thousands of cooker installations which should have blown up/caught fire/comitted hari-kiri, just because they have T/E from the CCU to the cooker.
 
I was under the impression that modern cookers are so well insulated that they give off relatively little heat, as do induction hobs. Can't see the problem really, I've never gone to disconnect either and found the T&E cable damaged.
 
I've now read the instructions and the reference to "6242Y" I believe is a mistake because if you look at the table above this reference it states that all 3 cores should be the same size!

Just saying.......
 
I was under the impression that modern cookers are so well insulated that they give off relatively little heat, as do induction hobs. Can't see the problem really, I've never gone to disconnect either and found the T&E cable damaged.
It isn't designed for use as a flexible cable for use as a final connection.
 

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