Discuss Is oven socket too close to back of oven? in the The Welcome Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Why Would that be @123? - you would have less jointing terminations and less metallic contacts.
 
Hmm.. a new build?
Shot in the dark, but would the developers name be P..RS..M..N by any chance?

It does seem strange that a rewirable plugtop (see, I do it too) has been used. Normally if an oven can run off a 13A socket, the plugtop is moulded onto the flex. (cannot be removed)
Somewhere on the oven there will be a rating plate or sticker. Look for kW, and let us know what it says.
The plate could be on the back of the oven, and the sticker possibly inside the cavity.
Will also be listed on the instruction manual, but if all else fails.... the make and model number of the oven. We can google the rating.
 
Hmm.. a new build?
Shot in the dark, but would the developers name be P..RS..M..N by any chance?

It does seem strange that a rewirable plugtop (see, I do it too) has been used. Normally if an oven can run off a 13A socket, the plugtop is moulded onto the flex. (cannot be removed)
Somewhere on the oven there will be a rating plate or sticker. Look for kW, and let us know what it says.
The plate could be on the back of the oven, and the sticker possibly inside the cavity.
Will also be listed on the instruction manual, but if all else fails.... the make and model number of the oven. We can google the rating.

Is this the info your looking for?

I'm really concerned that if it's been installed incorrectly and dangerously that it won't just be my property!! and with the socket being directly next to gas pipe feel that we were lucky and the outcome of this could of been a lot worse.

The builder is sending out an electrician on Tue but its great just to get another opinion on it.

20180930_121657.jpg
 
Is this the info your looking for?

I'm really concerned that if it's been installed incorrectly and dangerously that it won't just be my property!! and with the socket being directly next to gas pipe feel that we were lucky and the outcome of this could of been a lot worse.

The builder is sending out an electrician on Tue but its great just to get another opinion on it.

View attachment 44576
that rating shows that the oven is a 10A load, but the 10A will not be continuous due to the stat cutting out on temperature. should be fine on a 13A BS1363 plug/socket as long as both are of good quality and the terminations are sound.
 
Is this the info your looking for?

I'm really concerned that if it's been installed incorrectly and dangerously that it won't just be my property!! and with the socket being directly next to gas pipe feel that we were lucky and the outcome of this could of been a lot worse.

The builder is sending out an electrician on Tue but its great just to get another opinion on it.

View attachment 44576
There's nothing glaringly unsafe about the arrangement you have but I think getting a sparky to cast his beady eye over it is a good thing. Replacing the plug is easy but replacing the socket is more difficult, the wiring behind it might need minor repairs as well so not really a DIY job. It would also be good to have a quick test done on the circuit and a quick inspect of the general installation.
 
See my #19 - OP could you confirm whether the cable into the plug and oven is 'stiff' or flexible like on an say electric kettle. I suspect the wrong type of cable has been used - stiff.

Could you take off the top of the plug and send us a picture of the innards? (I guess the cpc will not be sleeved/insulated).
 
Last edited:
Why Would that be @123? - you would have less jointing terminations and less metallic contacts.
I'm never done replacing FCU's that have gone faulty. Burnt out at the fuse part, always seems to be the case if it's running anywhere near 2kW or over they don't last.
 

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