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Currently pricing up new electrics for a new kitchen. I am not a spark nor do I intend on doing the work - I am simply saving some time and money by speccing exactly what I want prior to getting quotes.

I have the following appliances on dedicated circuits:
  • Fridge freezer (fed from B20 MCB on dedicated 2.5mm radial)
  • Microwave/oven + Induction hob (fed via B32 MCB on dedicated 10mm radial, split with 2 x 4mm spurs + 45A DP isolator on counter.
I then have the following appliances to deal with:
  • Boiler
  • Dishwasher
  • Washer/dryer
  • Extractor
  • Water softener
  • Dyson charging station
Would I be best off:
1) Running a 4mm radial to a series of wall mounted switched single sockets positioned behind appliances (fed from B20 MCB).
2) Running a 4mm radial to a MK grid switch with 6 x 20AMP switches. Running individual 2.5mm spurs off to wall mounted unswitched single sockets behind appliances (fed from B20 MCB.

Whilst I see option 2 offers better accessibility to switches, it also means x6 the number of cable runs (each ranging from 2m to 4m). All MCBs are RCD protected. I also know 4mm might be unnecessary for a 20MCB but I was going for better safe than sorry.

What would you do?
 
I am simply saving some time and money by speccing exactly what I want prior to getting quotes.

Just detail what appliances you are having, the exact positions, the number and positions of general use sockets etc and detail it all on a plan with exact measurements for the electrician.
By all means specify a brand of accessory and that you would like grid switches, but leave the circuit design to the electrician who will be doing the job.
 
Would I be best off:
1) Running a 4mm radial to a series of wall mounted switched single sockets positioned behind appliances (fed from B20 MCB).
2) Running a 4mm radial to a MK grid switch with 6 x 20AMP switches. Running individual 2.5mm spurs off to wall mounted unswitched single sockets behind appliances (fed from B20 MCB.
say no more .
 
If putting sockets directly behind appliances, ensure there is enough room.
 
10mm cable on a 32a MCB? 4mm cable on a 20a MCB?
Do you own a copper mine?

On a 32 a MCB 4mm cable is OK. On a 20a MCB 2.5mm is PK.

Induction and oven have a theoretical max draw of 46a. Whilst this is unlikely to be drawn at the same time it seems a safer bet to install 10mm cable rated for 40-70a as this is a permanent addition. The MCB can always be swapped out for a 50a if tripping becomes an issue. I suspect it won't but better than having to upgrade the cable in the future.
 
Induction and oven have a theoretical max draw of 46a. Whilst this is unlikely to be drawn at the same time it seems a safer bet to install 10mm cable rated for 40-70a as this is a permanent addition. The MCB can always be swapped out for a 50a if tripping becomes an issue. I suspect it won't but better than having to upgrade the cable in the future.

As said, leave the circuit design to the installing electrician. They sign a section on the certificate which makes them responsible for the design of the installation. They need to design it. You will not save any money or time doing this. All it is likely to achieve is you getting off on the wrong foot with any electrician.
 
You will not save anything cost wise by dictating cable sizes to an electrician.
A 32A rfc in 2.5mm will probably suffice, as it does for the majority of homes in the uk.
Dedicated radial for cooker, and maybe for w/m and another for freezer.

Personally, don’t do a grid switch. Too fiddly to work with, but I would have a 20A dp switch controlling unswitched sockets in adjacent cupboards, not behind appliances.

If your electrician designs the circuits, any comeback will be on his head, not yours.
 
You will not save anything cost wise by dictating cable sizes to an electrician.
A 32A rfc in 2.5mm will probably suffice, as it does for the majority of homes in the uk.
Dedicated radial for cooker, and maybe for w/m and another for freezer.

Personally, don’t do a grid switch. Too fiddly to work with, but I would have a 20A dp switch controlling unswitched sockets in adjacent cupboards, not behind appliances.

If your electrician designs the circuits, any comeback will be on his head, not yours.
now you have design it for him you as well go and do the job has well.
 
You will not save anything cost wise by dictating cable sizes to an electrician.
A 32A rfc in 2.5mm will probably suffice, as it does for the majority of homes in the uk.
Dedicated radial for cooker, and maybe for w/m and another for freezer.

Personally, don’t do a grid switch. Too fiddly to work with, but I would have a 20A dp switch controlling unswitched sockets in adjacent cupboards, not behind appliances.

If your electrician designs the circuits, any comeback will be on his head, not yours.
now you have design it for him you as well go and do the job has well.
 

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