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N

ngoodson1969

Hi All,

I just wondered whether the circuit below will work:
A 2 gang switch, 1 switch does the pendant, the other does the 4 down-lighters and a separate single switch for the under-cupboard lights? Thanks.


Kitchen Light Circuit???? {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net
 
Hi.

Seems like it would be easier for you to take the live and neutral feed direct to your switch, and run twin and earths from there to the relevant light fittings.

EDIT- I've just spied an error on your drawing. Have a look and see if you can spot it.;)
 
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2 out of 10 for your artwork but only the first light will work as the central top wire has no neutral connected to jb1, im sure its just an oversite while drawing i hope your wiring is neater than your drawing and i assume their is no earthing to simplify the drawing.
 
Ha ha, yes, just an oversight, thanks for that. Also, yes I did omit cpc's for clarity.
I was told the problem with going through a switch first was that you would then have to put all the neutrals into a conn. block and stuff that somewhere behind the switch.
Thanks for looking guys.

Nick

Hi Lenny, how would that circuit look that you described (going via the switch first)
I don't suppose it's possible you could draw it????

Nick
 
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First proper reply to a thread......

T+E from consumer unit to 3 gang switch, all neutrals in a connector block, Line or live w/e you like to call it, in the relevant 'common' connections, link between these to carry the feed. Switch wires out to each light. Easier in my book for fancy fittings and for downlights due to only being 1 twin and earth.

Could someone double check the above Im sure its correct. :)
 
Apart from the missed neutral , that's the proper way to wire (3 plate) , I've been sparking for 35 years and I don't wire neutrals to switches,!
 
I'm sorry, but would you care to enlighten all of us as to why you deem looping in and out of a switch as so poor?? Particularly when you have a multitude of recessed lights / chandeliers etc on a circuit.

I'd be very interested to hear.
 
I'm sorry, but would you care to enlighten all of us as to why you deem looping in and out of a switch as so poor?? Particularly when you have a multitude of recessed lights / chandeliers etc on a circuit.

I'd be very interested to hear.

Me too.
 
There are no regs against it, Iwas taught no neutrals at switches unless double pole switches are used.
I know it's easier sometimes but I always try to avoid it,plus I don't like connector blocks at sw's especially when you have dimmers (heat ). If you want to extend the circuit later ,you have get feed from switch rather than lift a couple of floorboards.
I don't know what they teach at college now,I suppose it's all this european harmony.

I've come across switch boxes with 5 t+e's and 1 3c+e all crammed into a single box, I just think it's a bit of a DIY'er method. On the guys original drawing the 1st light is a pendant (no problem), the next one is a downlight ( no problem,JB fits in hole ) the last one is under cupboard light (JB fixed to under side if cbd, no problems !!:p
 
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I agree with everyone else, this would seem a lot easier.

Soz your drawing for was an 8 out of 10 mine is a 2 :(
 

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In commercial installs with singles in conduit ect, I can think of many reasons why taking the neutral feeds through the switch route would be a must, cost wise, and practicability of application. How about heat build up caused by eddy currents and emf's with metalics between line and neutrals. All need to be considered.
 
Apart from the missed neutral , that's the proper way to wire (3 plate) , I've been sparking for 35 years and I don't wire neutrals to switches, leave that for the Poles.!

Sorry, but I do lot a work in new build extensions with flat roofs.The easist method without leaving unaccesable JBs in the roof space, is to take the neutrals down to the light switch. Also how can a JB be deemed accesable under a laminate/ solid oak floor for inspection and testing. I'ts never been a problem for me on an NIC assesment either.
 

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