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Hi

I was just after some pricing help/advice as I’ve been asked to price up for a kitchen rewire and as I’ve just gone on my own so is one of the bigger jobs I’ve quoted so want to get it right.

The kitchen will be empty and they’ve asked for a CU change (requested Schneider easy9 12 way), 10 new double sockets (using existing ring but they want existing sockets moving) 12 downlights (8 in kitchen 4 in utility) separately switched wall light, separately switched under cabinet lights and plinth lighting. A new cooker circuit and cooker connection point (20m in total)
Obviously will be tested/notified etc

All work to be carried out from below and patching ceiling before plastering.

They will be provide socket fronts and cabinet/plinth lighting

Do you guys generally quote per point and work it out that way?

What would be a very rough price in your guys opinions?

All help and guidance greatly appreciated

Thanks
 
I would price the job est £1,500.00, if they are providing some materials ,you are running a business.
had a customer rings up to day ,what is you daily rate .answer .
need to see the job .me to customer are you a builder ,yes.
I will be supplying the materials., me .on your bike.
 
The Wylex and Crabtree compact RCBOs are DP can't wait until they are a decent price - all that room!
 
What if it's TT? I usually fit Dual RCD board with up front 100mA time delayed RCD. 95% of my work is with TT, lost interest in trying to source DP RCBO's or SP Switched Neutral RCBO's at reasonable money.

Nothing wrong with a 100mA time delay on a RCBO board on TT IMHO
 
I'm generally in agreement with the price estimates.

As you are doing a kitchen.
Rule number 1. Do not start ANY work until you have a 100% confirmed and signed by the customer FINAL LAYOUT with exact dimensions of every thing. This will include the EXACT name, model numnber and specification of each and every electrical appliance that will be connecting to your electrical points.
Get confirmation as to who will be making the final connections, otherwise you'll be on your hands and knees trying to connect up a Quooker or a waste disposal unit long after you thought you had finished (these things dont go in until after the worktop is installed).

Think long and hard about how the cable runs will work.
Example: The customer specifies colour changing LED plinth lights all round the kitchen. How are you going to get the 4-core cable to leap over the doorway, past the hob, to the island unit.
Example: Customer wants under cupboard lights to be controlled by separate switch by the kitchen door. How you going to do that?

And I absolutely agree with this comment
<customer says>I will be supplying the materials., me .on your bike.
 
Thanks for all the replies so far, regarding the pricing I’m very similar to the prices you guys have mentioned.

The switches for the lighting are going back the existing light, the plinth lighting are all in one run, and 2 runs for the cabinet lighting
 
I do/did kitchens regularly. Helps if you know & get on with the kitchen installer.

Invariably, as seems the fashion these days, the kitchen ceiling is getting skimmed, so normally drill access holes or take down small sections of plasterboard, and re-instate (catered for in quotation), to facilitate any rewiring etc.

Quote specifies whats included, anything else is on day rate as an extra.

Normally include the connecting up of appliances. I also allow some extra time, to factor in the time when the painter or floor layer etc etc, overruns.

Personally, I would quote separately for the kitchen & CU replacement, even if the former is dependant on the latter. My quote would probably be slightly higher, than quoted. CU & bits is £200ish, other materials say £200, that leaves £1100. Which with my maths is not quite two days labour :eek:

Edit: hang on I got that wrong, recalculating!

Alright 5 1/2 days, still allow bit more for buggeration :)
 
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I would put in a rcbo board, they can be picked up relatively cheaply now even double pole rcbo boards. If not a massive kitchen/utility, I would suggest that the client takes out the ceiling out completely, makes things far easier and less chance of hitting pipes etc, The cost of slapping up a few boards of plasterboard is usually saved on labour and faffing about by plasterer,electrician, decorator. Build a loom in with lighting plugs to plug the down lights in after plastering and painting, draw a decent drawing of where the cables are to be found. The client will change their mind halfway through so build in some extra labour to cater for this.
 
Nothing wrong with a 100mA time delay on a RCBO board on TT IMHO
If RCBO's are single pole that's a pointless exercise, it's a terrible design idea. Most RCBO's on UK market are Single Pole Solid Neutral and manufacturers state not to use on a TT system.

That's why I generally fit Dual RCD Boards, and dump the Main Switch for a 100mA Time Delayed RCD.
 

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