Discuss Loft wiring advice please in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Andyx

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I am fitting a Nuaire Drymaster PIV into my loft space. I had it fitted in another house and it as it is max 15.3W and protected by a 1 Amp fuse was wired into the lighting circuit. I don't feel confident to do this through a junction box etc but there is loft light which I could use the wiring from easily - I just wanted to check is there a way I can do this without loosing the use of the light. As the the Drymaster has to stay on I assume I couldn't have both (without wiring direct from a junction box)?
cheers
 
OK to wire to light circuit, but check if your neutral is at the light or at the switch.
 
If there's a live and neutral supply at the loft light switch you simply take a supply from the live side then connect via the fused connection unit - if they've supplied an unswitched one swap it for a switched unit to provide a means of isolation for the fan. This will have no effect on the light at all.
 
Simple answer - check to see where the permanent-line is located, at the switch or at the lamp (advice below):

Common Wiring (Loft Lamps)
In a loft, the permanent-line will often go to the switch first, with the lamp connected directly to the switch.
- Common way to tell: the neutral conductors (between supply cable & lamp cable) are usually joined in a connector-block inside the switch.

Alternative Wiring (Loft Lamps)
Sometimes the permanent-line goes to the lamp first, with a switch-wire run between the switch and the lamp.
- Common way to tell: The lamp will have a 'loop' connection which the permanent-line is connected to. There should also be visible brown-sleeving seen on some neutral-conductors in both the switch and lamp to indicate they are being used as line-conductors.

Side Note (Considerations)
- Make sure the circuit Ib (design current) is suitable for the additional equipment, small current-demands can add up quickly and result in potentially dangerous over-currents (and the circuit may have been modified in the past).
- Check the cable-calculations and voltage drops to be sure.
- Find the breaker you're using for the new equipment connection and label it in the consumer-unit for future reference.
- Carry out the necessary inspection & testing before going live.
- Remember that although the new equipment current-demand is low meaning that small-conductor sizes would be ok (under normal conditions), the protective device is calculated to protect the cables under fault-conditions and a small conductor size would not satisfy the requirements. Consider installing a FCU (Fused Connection Unit) in this case.

I hope this has helped. I've explained things simplistically just in case you're unsure but don't mean to seem rude (if it comes across that way). Always happy to answer any questions as best I can.
 
Simple answer - check to see where the permanent-line is located, at the switch or at the lamp (advice below):

Common Wiring (Loft Lamps)
In a loft, the permanent-line will often go to the switch first, with the lamp connected directly to the switch.
- Common way to tell: the neutral conductors (between supply cable & lamp cable) are usually joined in a connector-block inside the switch.

Alternative Wiring (Loft Lamps)
Sometimes the permanent-line goes to the lamp first, with a switch-wire run between the switch and the lamp.
- Common way to tell: The lamp will have a 'loop' connection which the permanent-line is connected to. There should also be visible brown-sleeving seen on some neutral-conductors in both the switch and lamp to indicate they are being used as line-conductors.

Side Note (Considerations)
- Make sure the circuit Ib (design current) is suitable for the additional equipment, small current-demands can add up quickly and result in potentially dangerous over-currents (and the circuit may have been modified in the past).
- Check the cable-calculations and voltage drops to be sure.
- Find the breaker you're using for the new equipment connection and label it in the consumer-unit for future reference.
- Carry out the necessary inspection & testing before going live.
- Remember that although the new equipment current-demand is low meaning that small-conductor sizes would be ok (under normal conditions), the protective device is calculated to protect the cables under fault-conditions and a small conductor size would not satisfy the requirements. Consider installing a FCU (Fused Connection Unit) in this case.

I hope this has helped. I've explained things simplistically just in case you're unsure but don't mean to seem rude (if it comes across that way). Always happy to answer any questions as best I can.
 
thanks much appreciated - I have checked the switch - here is a pic - there is sleeving on the blue so assume its the Alternative wiring described - does that mean I need to wire the drymaster to the lamp and not the switch?
switch.jpg
 
You will find the permanent live wherever that cable comes from either a light fitting, ceiling rose or junction box.
 
the brown is permanent live. the blue with brown sleeve is switched live. neutrals will be blue with no sleeving.
 
light.jpg light.jpg junction.jpg

For more certainty the left pic is the light - the cable from the switch goes to the junction box on the right (top) and the light to one on left?
Would it be easiest if I just remove the light and wire connect the drymaster ? I can always use a torch in future...
 
no.in the junction box you will find the connections you need. perm.L and N will be there along with switched L. you need the perm.L and N. ( not forgetting the cpc (earth).
 
Don't lose the light - that would be silly. I would call a sparky in ensure you get the job done correctly - no offence intended but you don't seem to have enough knowledge to carry out this task.

Out of interest what does that junction box supply that has 8 T&Es going to/from it?
 
cheers - no offence taken DPG the reason I was asking was I realise my limitations and thats why I was originally thinking I would sacrifice the light unless it was easy for me to do it another way, without going into the junction box. So I will go back to sacrificing the light unless that's unsafe too) as it gets little use anyway.
 

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