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Is it from a feasible and regs point of view ok to put the 45amp cooker isolation switch and a number of FSU's (to a number of appliances from the kitchen) in a cupboard in the utility room 10-15 feet away? Other than fuse protection, these switches are for maintenance only and will be easily accessed.
 
isolation switches should be in close proximity to the appliances. scenario could be a chip pan fire. you can't get close to the hob to turn off: accessible isolation switch within a couple of yards is advisable. then get the wet towels on the job. N.B. if the hob is gas, the above is irrelevant. (apart from the wet towels).
 
isolation switches should be in close proximity to the appliances. scenario could be a chip pan fire. you can't get close to the hob to turn off: accessible isolation switch within a couple of yards is advisable. then get the wet towels on the job. N.B. if the hob is gas, the above is irrelevant. (apart from the wet towels).
Unless some idiot put the isolation switch in too close proximity in which case you'd get burnt before you could isolate.
 
if it's too close, it would be melted and unswitchable, maybe a case for a regs.amendment. cooker isolators must be metal.
 
interesting comments, the regs even for you qualified Sparks can be interpreted slightly differently, so are these switches for isolation (cooker switch, eg maintenance) or clearly for an emergency, therefore must be reasonably close to the appliance? is there a given distance in the regs?
 
Thanks guys, I will use the trays, so much neater and the insulation can run under them, reducing rating problems as mentioned, going to order some from TLC today, if you know of a cheaper supplier, please let me know.


What does your spark say about all this?
 
Have not hired a Spark yet, but the reason for this me joining this forum was to engage with a huge range of Spark's, like yourself, to get an impartial and broad view regarding my questions and concerns, also to gain additional ideas, rather than rely on the "one" hired spark to suggest the design of my electrical layout, which could be constrained due to his ability or limited views. Sensible in my mind... and I have received really constructive feedback so far, which is appreciated.
 
Its seems unlikely that you have any intention of hiring an electrician. But the point of this forum isnt really to enable homeowners to do their own electrical work (which, in your case is probably notifiable).

I suggest you hire an electrician to design your circuits for you. If you want to share the design on here you will get plenty of feedback on it. Alternatively you could buy the books and figure it all out for yourself.
 
I am sorry to have to say this.... but there is always the one, on any Forum!!! Trainee Access, It's amazing, how long have you this sixth sense?..... knowing what I am planning, you should be on stage, waisted as a Spark. I have come on here as I have an interest in the subject and to discuss my thoughts and to get a general view before I take on a Spark, a little bit of info for you, I chatted to David last night and David is an electrician from Ponty, but I thought you would have known this and... he is calling me on Monday evening. Clue in my previous thread "not hired one yet"... assumptions!
 
lol. not really an assumption when your first post states "I am not a qualified sparky, but I will notify building control" or when you're asking multiple basic questions about all aspects of an installation. how many electricians have you "consulted" at this stage anyway? lets just hope you're not wasting poor Davids time.
 
I have mentioned SPD's to some sparky's locally and I see the sense of them with the amount of electronics within households today, but one sparky told me SPD's are a pain in the ar** to install due to the complicated risk assessment paperwork involved, but reading the regs as a DIyer that I am, this is now compulsory on a single dwelling if you do not complete a risk assessment, am I correct Midwest.
I believe this to be correct.. there has to be a risk assessment in order to confirm whether thete are any life threatening implications.. if no risk assessment then an SPD must be fitted.
 
Intoelectrics... agree, I'm not a sparky, but feel that RCBO's can fit into design alongside RCD protected circuits for discrimination as you stated, especially the kitchen. Also agree with calling in an electrician to assess my install and signing off before energising system. Doing this for the enjoyment and knowledge...but safety is paramount!
Not worth the expense.
 
Oven and Induction Hob - DB 32A RCBO
Appliance's Total = 10.89kW- 47.34A using diversity and if maths correct

Diversity is an excuse to downrate a calculated cable size. Fundamentally it ----u-me-s that you don't use all of the appliances all of the time. But when you are cooking, in all likelihood that's exactly what you do.

I've seen newer 5-ring induction hobs rated up to 11kW, but ovens rated low enough to run off a 13A socket (if nothing else was using the same circuit). So if anything, I would uprate more than you have suggested, and consider putting the hob and oven on different circuits.

But I'm not an electrician, so read in conjunction with other posts.
 
4 pages of utter nonsense. The original post asking for lots of advice and then keeps referencing electricians he knows. Ask them these questions, not us.

Screwfix and toolstation sell junk mainly. Cheap nasty carp that’s why they are cheap. BG, LAP etc. If their sooo into turning into a proper electrical wholesaler how come they don’t sell Hager? I’m guessing it’s because Hager don’t want to be associated with them?

My local Screwedfix told me I could have an Electrifried account if I was part P qualified. Looked at me totally blank when I pointed out it isn’t a qualification and in any event doesn’t exist in Scotland.

I can buy cable cheaper than screwedfix prices from REXEL, YESSS, CEF et al. I’m only a small business. If you’re not supporting and negotiating your prices with these wholesalers then something’s wrong.
 
I believe this to be correct.. there has to be a risk assessment in order to confirm whether thete are any life threatening implications.. if no risk assessment then an SPD must be fitted.
However... the risk assessment is just a simple equation that takes a few minutes to calculate... and for domestic dwellings in an urban environment with underground cables, will most likely result in no SPD.
 
More Sparks transferring to Screwfix and Toolstation daily, that's why the likes of Denman's and other Electrical wholesalers are closing branches. Quicker service, Guaranteed more items available in stock, most rates compare with wholesalers and all at the touch of an iPad.

Now I know you really don't know what you're talking about and shouldn't be allowed near the kitchen wiring and especially the CU change/upgrade. You're not qualified, don't know how to do this safely, aren't allowed to (but think it's OK because others do it), won't be testing, won't understand the results, can't have TPC, getting your 'Part P' won't make you competent or this any better.

I've fitted 1,000's of SWA glands, never had one with a 'copper compression gland', sure you're not mixing this your with your expertise of plumbing (glands), or what your Plumber told you'?
 
Hi Guys
New to forum and enjoying reading the threads, all interesting, so..
Looking to re-wire my kitchen due to re-fit and some of you will be unhappy (understandibly) as I am not a qualified sparky, but I will notify building control and get the work certified and passed. This is simply an interest of mine and I enjoy it, I certainly don't intend killing myself or anyone else in the process and will get in local authorities for cert...so here goes, lot's of reading, bear with me, as I really can do with the help to clarify if I am wrong alltogether or on the right track being a diy'er.

I am now installing at home a built in oven 3.39kW, microwave 900w, induction hob 7.5kW, Fridgefreezer, under counter freezer, washing machine and Cooker hood 250w.

All appliances with 4 meters of DB and Clipped direct to wall behind open cavity, not insulated, 75mm cavity to address 50mm depth regs, don't intend to mechanically protect wiring, due to 75mm deep and RCD protected. Walls plasterboard lined for convenience, all wiring within prescribed zones!

So, would this be correct for regs... I have a
Wylex,14way Split Load DB, 2x 80A/30ma RCD's with the addition of potential seperated RCBO's below:

Oven and Induction Hob - DB 32A RCBO
Appliance's Total = 10.89kW- 47.34A using diversity and if maths correct:-
30% = 11.2A, 11.2A+10A= 21.2A total, so from DB using 6mm cable via 45A CCU down to Dual Cooker Outlet using 6mm cable, seperated and terminated at both appliance's using 6mm cable.

Fridgefreezer and Freezer - on separate 20A RCBO dedicated radials using 2.5mm cable via Switched FCU's down to flex outlet plates.

Washing Machine - I'm sure read somewhere regarding Nusiance tripping, not sure if 17th Edition about putting the likes of the washing machine again, on a dedicated curcuit, 20A RCBO using the usual method mentioned or, I could spur off rfc with Switched FCU down to flex outlet plate. This was when I was told I was over the top and pointless by a Sparky, always learning, even at 50.

Finally Microwave(900watt) and Hood(250watt) total 5A
Could these both appliances be powered via a junction box to separate FCU's and outlet plates, on 10A RCBO dedicated radial curcuit.

I have room for these dedicated radials and can keep the RCD protected Split Loads seperate, would this then be the making of a High Integrity Unit?
DP RCBO's or SP RCBO's, so many views on this, not sure.

If you have read this far, I commend you for your patients and appologise if my terminology is not adequate and certainly look forward to your comments and would really appreciate the feedback.
Ffc frightening
 

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