Discuss New electric cooker causing power to trip at fuse. The fuse is reluctant to flick back on after. in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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When it trips, do you leave everything on and just turn it back on?

If so, the next time it trips, turn everything off in the fuse box except the RCDs, turn the big RCD that trips back on and then turn them back on one at a time... do the cooker last.

It's possible the fault is in the element and as it cools down it goes away and allows you to reset the RCD, but following this procedure above should (if the fault is only on the cooker) allow you to get the power back on quicker.

You shouldn't really keep turning it on under load either as it will damage the contacts.
I will do that and I agree it isn't ideal.

The cooker rarely gets up to temperature when it trips.

Also I have used the cooker for 10 days with no trips.... seems sporadic.
 
I will do that and I agree it isn't ideal.

The cooker rarely gets up to temperature when it trips.

Also I have used the cooker for 10 days with no trips.... seems sporadic.

It's not just faults that can trip RCDs. It could be cumulative leakage, where under a certain set of circumstances there is over 30mA of leakage, could be sometimes there is leakage in the junction box and others not.

Loose connections can also trip RCDs.
 
Hi what do you mean my this please? I tried googling the acronyms to no joy. Appreciate your help

TT is an earthing system, you'll have an earth rod (the cable that disappears through the wall most likely). Because TT doesn't allow much current to flow under some fault conditions, RCDs were added upfront to improve safety.

Now you have RCDs in your consumer unit, it's not needed. If the CU was metal, we might install a 100mA time delayed RCD to protect the connections between the consumer unit and the meter, but for all intents and purposes you don't need it. It should have been removed when the consumer unit was upgraded.
 
TT is an earthing system, you'll have an earth rod (the cable that disappears through the wall most likely). Because TT doesn't allow much current to flow under some fault conditions, RCDs were added upfront to improve safety.

Now you have RCDs in your consumer unit, it's not needed. If the CU was metal, we might install a 100mA time delayed RCD to protect the connections between the consumer unit and the meter, but for all intents and purposes you don't need it. It should have been removed when the consumer unit was upgraded.


Thank you so much for all your help.

Really appreciate all your help.

Thanks
 
I’ve just seen exactly the same thing. Cooker supply cable jointed in the old 45A switch box and tiled over.
Joint made in a J401 spur box which I believe is only rated 30A
Luckily there was enough spare cable in attic to reroute and move to where it needed to be.
Also needed to rewire the rfc in kitchen where I found a spur off a spur off a spur off the rfc.
 
Unfortunately in Wales, electrical work in your kitchen is covered under Part P of the building regulations. There should be at least a Minor Electrical Installation Works certificate and your local authority building control department should have been notified that the work has been carried out.

You're technically responsible for the notification or lack of.

It can be corrected, but you'd need to employee an electrician to carry out an Electrical Installation Condition Report and probably pay your LABC a fee to have the work regularised.
 
I should add, if you wanted to get it regularised, you would need to discuss it with your LABC as some are fussy and only allow this kind of thing to be done by certain scheme members or certain companies.
 
I’ve just seen exactly the same thing. Cooker supply cable jointed in the old 45A switch box and tiled over.
Joint made in a J401 spur box which I believe is only rated 30A
Luckily there was enough spare cable in attic to reroute and move to where it needed to be.
Also needed to rewire the rfc in kitchen where I found a spur off a spur off a spur off the rfc.
Yeah ... sounds similar to my cooker.. the one we used was 30amp

Axiom Junction Box 30A 3 Terminal White - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p28404
 
You disagree with MF connections when buried?

Personally I disagree with anything buried in the wall if there is no indication at all that it's there. It's a disaster waiting to happen if there's cables floating around and no accessories to give even a hint they exist.

Jointing method doesn't come into it.
 
We've all seen this done before, I think, but it dont make it correct, not just for the reasons already mentioned.

It's one of those things that could be fine and last years but now the OP has a fault these are the things you really wish you hadn't done.

It can be proved that this junction is not the cause of the fault, if that's the case, but it will never be correct and it will always be a potential hazard.
 

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