Discuss Old Consumer Unit / Fuse Box in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

Thanks all for your help - @davesparks I might have removed the lid, but my common sense did prevail and prevent me from touching anything, hence I'm still here! I told you above, I apply a mixture of a tiny bit of knowledge (which in this case let me down), a heap of common sense (which is why I didn't touch anything) and a reasonable measure of overkill (which is why I was wearing gloves and not alone at the time) - that way I know if one of the three lets me down, the other two are likely to pick up the slack and keep me breathing.

Regarding the tester, I'm missing something I'm sure, but in terms of testing whether a wire is live or not, I can't see what that device does that a multimeter doesn't. I'm happy to spend ÂŁ100 on something which will keep me alive, but since my multimeter already cost nearly that, what am I missing before I shell out?

GS38 says my device must:

conform to the requirements of BS EN 61010-031 or in the case of a 2-pole voltage detector to BS EN 61243-3 (see Further reading); <fishkake:BS61010 complicance is noted on my meter, but I don't know what -031 is>
■ be marked with the rated installation category – CAT II, III, or IV; <fishkake:check>
■ be marked with the manufacturer’s name or identifying mark; and have the following:
â–  probes, and clips, which:
o have finger barriers or are shaped to guard against inadvertent hand contact with the live conductors under test; <fishkake:check>
o are insulated to leave an exposed metal tip not exceeding 4 mm measured across any surface of the tip. Where practicable it is strongly recommended that this is reduced to 2 mm or less, or that springloaded retractable screened probes are used; <fishkake:check>
o when used with a multimeter, should have suitable high-breaking capacity (hbc), sometimes known as hrc, fuse, or fuses,† with a suitable current rating (usually not exceeding 500 mA), except when used with a loop impedance or RCD tester where a value of 10 A is typically used or a current-limiting resistor and a fuse.** <fishkake: not certain about this, I couldn't find the data>

Do I need to shell out another ÂŁ100 to safely test if a wire is carrying a live voltage or not? Jeez, I thought most DIYers did this with a ÂŁ1 screwdriver!
 
:eek: I think OP your one of those DIY's whose like to go too far with things. Stop messing around with things, before you kill yourself or someone else. In ten years time you might not own this house, and put the new owners in danger.

What? What have I done that's going too far? I have literally removed a fuse and tried to test the current on a wire. Both things that I thought were both legal and safe for a DIYer to do - the only purpose of this post was to ask if I should get the fuse box replaced, I haven't done a thing!
 
Apologies, I missed that this post had developed a page 2 when I posted the above - thanks @snowhead for that info. I've never trusted those ÂŁ1 screwdrivers, but it seems they're not even legal to test for the presence of voltage. And it seems that the selling page on Amazon for my multimeter makes various claims that it is suitable for use when it legally isn't.

I should point out this isn't why I bought my multimeter. I tinker with electronics - and when working with 3-5V, I really don't have to care about electrical safety :)
 
Do I need to shell out another ÂŁ100 to safely test if a wire is carrying a live voltage or not? Jeez, I thought most DIYers did this with a ÂŁ1 screwdriver!

You need knowledge and correct training above all else.

Most multimeters have a very high input impedance and don't present enough, if any, load onto the item being tested. This leads to the meter measuring phantom voltages and falsely giving the impression that something is live when it is not.
 
If that's old cabling I spy on the right it's rewiring you should be looking at also
 

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