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dazz84

Hi all

Been racking my brains all day... Had a customer replace a PIR after it was damaged by roofer. He says he replaced it like for lie and merely took one wire out and one in to knew PIR.

I thought he may have got the wires the wrong way so have had a look but does not seem to be the case. the PIR clicks but does not turn lights on. Could it be faulty PIR?

What we have is 2 outside lights, a switch within the kitchen and the PIR. Now im told when the switch is closed the lights turn on as required (which is does) and when the switch is open, the PIR takes over.

Whoever fitted these lights has made all connections in the loft in a junction box which i cannot get to with ease.

At the PIR i have a red wire, black wire and un insulated wire. It was connected Red to L, black to L1 and un insulated to N. This is when it clicks....

I have drawn a diagram to how i think it should be.. if so... would this work and could the PIR just be faulty *ignore the blue and brown wiring diag.*


View attachment JC2.bmp

Cheers Dazz
 
Is the uninsulated wire sleeved and identified as a neutral? Does the PIR require a CPC to be connected?

The best thing with this kind of dogs breakfast is to use your tester to identify the live and neutral into the PIR and the switched live wire back out. It's quite possible the uninsulated wire could have been the switched live if it was sleeved accordingly although it might not be legal to have it this way. It's all guesswork without seeing the mess first hand.
 
He says he replaced it like for lie and merely took one wire out and one in to knew PIR.

I thought he may have got the wires the wrong way

The words in red are true, any other words uttered by the customer are not.
 
Not being funny, but when you were checking it out was it still daylight? The PIR will still click as it is sensing you, but will not switch if it's still light and the daylight adjuster has been set to dark!
And using the CPC for the neutral? FFS!
 
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It was still daylight and considered the darkness but had adjusted the sensor fully..

Was a bit of a dogs breakfast the wiring in the place..

Think will be doing that circuit from scratch.
 
Oh and the I insulated wire was wrapped in black insulation tape, that's it!! PIR cover is plastic and has no CPC terminal?
 
Sorry guys.... got this job tmrow.. would this diag work?? Am trying new sensor 1st just incase...




Pir help {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net
 
Hi Daz..

The above diagram will work but the PIR and switch have nothing to do with each other. The PIR has its own Permanant Live (PL) as does the switch, so the PIR will be working when the kitchen switch is open or closed. The kitchen switch has been wired as a manual overide for when someone wants to switch the lights on all the time.

But, as Marvo said, without seeing it its difficult as the above is completely dependant on your diagram being accurate.

Lastly there doesn't seem to be any form of local isolation mentioned, the kitchen switch is just a manual overide. Does it have any local isolation?
 
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