Discuss Plasterboard Back boxes 1st fix or 2nd fix in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Mid fix..Once 1st fix and boarded cut them out, plaster does his job then put your boxes in. If the plasterer does his job properly he might clean the holes (wishful thinking).

TBTH I wouldn't be using plasterboard boxes on a job that's not boarded/plastered....I'd use metal KO boxes on noggins. IMO plasterboard boxes are only really for jobs where you have no choice like where its already boarded etc and you need to add an extra in.
 
Mid fix..Once 1st fix and boarded cut them out, plaster does his job then put your boxes in. If the plasterer does his job properly he might clean the holes (wishful thinking).

TBTH I wouldn't be using plasterboard boxes on a job that's not boarded/plastered....I'd use metal KO boxes on noggins. IMO plasterboard boxes are only really for jobs where you have no choice like where its already boarded etc and you need to add an extra in.

My thoughts exactly.
 
TBTH I wouldn't be using plasterboard boxes on a job that's not boarded/plastered....I'd use metal KO boxes on noggins. IMO plasterboard boxes are only really for jobs where you have no choice like where its already boarded etc and you need to add an extra in.

Would that be the sort of job where the nice Mr Dry Liner, cuts nice little holes accurately around you metal back box, or at least shoves the cables through the plasterboard, so it gives some clue to where the box should be :mad:

Last time I did some subbying on house bashing, the builder told my boss, I hadn't wired the loft conversion lights. I was told to back on the weekend and sort out my balls -up. Yeah right, same builder ----, had shoved every single cable behind the plasterboard. Few hammer blows later, revealed the missing cables. Plasterboard looked like Swiss cheese when I left :cool:
 
I think it can be 1st or 2nd fix depending on the professional and adult chit chat you've had with the builder before any walls or ceilings go up.

With my builder I tend to have the cable in place in the void for plasterboard walls, then the builder puts the walls up, then I cut my box holes. the builder is decent and he makes sure the cable is not knocked out of position so I just pop my hand in and fish it out.

For downlights it's a similar process. I leave the cables above where they will need to be pulled through, builder puts up the ceiling, I drill the hole and pull them through. I draw a rough plan of the joists so that I don't cut too near them. Again the builder thinks of his fellow tradesman and doesn't dislodge the cables out of position.

In the most recent example, there are too many cables above and I may not be able to find them through a downlight hole, or rather I'll be pulling the wrong cables, so the builder said he'd drill the tiniest hole possible and pull them through. He'll keep it really tiny so that my hole saw arbour can still get a grip.

I have worked with only 2 other builders but both of them were open to chatting about the way forward on the job and not too set in there ways.

Sensible, professional, adult communication whilst thinking ahead for your fellow tradesman be it the builder, plasterer or even....... dare I say it....... the plumber! :D
 
1st fix, get them in pre plaster, nice and level and tight so they can't be moved up or down, let plasterer plaster right up level with the box so it doesn't protrude, job done, love fast fix boxes lol.
 
1st fix, get them in pre plaster, nice and level and tight so they can't be moved up or down, let plasterer plaster right up level with the box so it doesn't protrude, job done, love fast fix boxes lol.

This is how I do it. Problem with metal boxes on noggings is the tackers often don't cut them out very well and you end up with a big gap round the side, which is an absolute pig to fill. Or they cut the board out wrong and try to fix with a layer of scrim tape before they plaster. This is normally covering at least one fixing lug so you have to try and cut it out carefully. The whole thing normally disintegrates at this point! Bloody plasterers.
 
I did a job recently where the idiots removed all the carefully fitted metal boxes, plasterboarded and brought the cables through small holes ! So I too have a preference for dry lining boxes these days, never seen one pull out or cause any problems in 30+ years. :)
 
This is how I do it. Problem with metal boxes on noggings is the tackers often don't cut them out very well and you end up with a big gap round the side, which is an absolute pig to fill. Or they cut the board out wrong and try to fix with a layer of scrim tape before they plaster. This is normally covering at least one fixing lug so you have to try and cut it out carefully. The whole thing normally disintegrates at this point! Bloody plasterers.

True, but if you make sure the metal box is slightly forward from the joists, they can push the board against the back box, cut it away carefully and hey presto, you and the plasterer are happy!
 
For light switches, when used with splashback and where there might be more than 1 accessorie between studs I use fastfix, only ever one brand as I've found all others useless. Everything else I use metal boxes. Plastering isn't prevalent up here except with English settlers.locally painters just tape and fill. Can't even think of a local plasterer.
 
For light switches, when used with splashback and where there might be more than 1 accessorie between studs I use fastfix, only ever one brand as I've found all others useless. Everything else I use metal boxes. Plastering isn't prevalent up here except with English settlers.locally painters just tape and fill. Can't even think of a local plasterer.

I only use Appleby, the lugs on the rest are sh1te. :)
 
Appleby all the way, the worst I ever used was knights something or other I like Appleby for the smooth slide I hate the ratcheting ones. And when I've only got room for a side fix and no metal box I shave off the grip part and screw in through the side of the lug. Never found any that come close.
 

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