Power cable for 2.8kW immersion heater

[ndl]

Hello good people,

I will be wiring a 2.8kW immersion heater in a 50L stainless steel pot (homebrewer here). The whole thing will be controlled by a small computer + a solid state relay. I've got a 12g (2mm) 50cm cable running to the heating element from the SSR. Now I would like to get a power cable from the mains to the SSR. The length of that cable will be 1.5-2.5 meters. Could anyone please suggest what kind of cable should I get? Would 1.5mm be enough? The heater will be on for short periods of time (no longer than 1.5 hours).

Thank you.

Paul.

 

[rhys1]

Personally I would do it in 2.5mm

 

[telectrix]

me too. for the sake of a few pence.

 

[Midwest]

Is the desired cable going to be flexible, and utilise plug & socket?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is the desired cable going to be flexible, and utilise plug & socket?

And be heat resistant

 

[telectrix]

and beer resistant?

 

[ndl]

Thank you for quick replies, everyone.

2.5mm it is then. Better have beer than be sorry.

Is the desired cable going to be flexible, and utilise plug & socket?

Yes, the cable is going to be flexible and will have a plug and a socket. I am thinking (having the suggestions in mind) about something like this:
1. NAC3MPA-1 | Neutrik Power Connector, 20A Plug, Panel Mount, 250 V ac | Neutrik - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mains-plus-sockets/2468290/ (on the control box)
2. NAC3FCA | Neutrik Power Connector, 20A Socket, Cable Mount, 250 V | Neutrik - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mains-plus-sockets/2468278/
3. | RS Pro BS 1363, 13A UK Plug, Cable Mount, 250 V ac | - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mains-plus-sockets/3236268/ I assume this is not fused. I will be getting something with a 13A fuse.
4. | RS Pro 3 Core Black Stranded PVC Mains Power Cable H05VV-F, 2.5 mm² CSA | - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mains-power-cable/0491954/ 2 meters, not the whole reel http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mains-power-cable/0491954/

Links above are just an example. I will be getting these things from a different place.

Would these work well?

Paul.

 

[Midwest]

Bit of old, well new, 1.5mm heat resistant flex would suffice IMO

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Personally I would use 1.5mm² cable too as it is a better fit in a 13A plug and quite sufficient for your approx 12A load. It is jst possible to fit 2.5mm² in some brands of plug but others are simply not designed for it. As per Midwest, the leg of cable to the immersion heater itself should be heat-resisting, although the one to the plug need not be.

The Neutrik Powercon pair are ideal for the duty. Be sure to use the A-type (blue colour, flex feeds power into unit) and B-type (grey colour, flex takes power out of unit) versions appropriately. There is a new improved version 'Powercon True 1' that is rated to break load and has a backshell that cannot be opened without a tool (a marginal concern with original Powercon in a domestic setting).

I am not sure how you made '12g' into 2mm². I would read '12g' as AWG in which case it's 3.3mm² but if you meant SWG it's 5.4mm².

E2A - as you made a reference to cable gauge, please just confirm you are in the UK as per your profile and the heater is to run on 230V AC?

 

[ndl]

[...]
I am not sure how you made '12g' into 2mm². I would read '12g' as AWG in which case it's 3.3mm² but if you meant SWG it's 5.4mm².

E2A - as you made a reference to cable gauge, please just confirm you are in the UK as per your profile and the heater is to run on 230V AC?

As you know, 12awg = 2mm (diameter) = 3.3 (cross sectional area). Sorry for not being clear.

Yes, I am in UK. Just checked the voltage in a socket - 242V.

Paul.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Ah OK, I read it as 2mm² because cable sizes for electrical work are never quoted in millimetres diameter, only CSA, and some people omit the ² for speed. Also very few people in the UK know or use gauge sizes, so any mention of gauge / gage tends to indicate a writer in the US / Far East where 100 or 120V supplies are usual and the heater current double what we have been assuming.

 

[Midwest]

Personally I would use 1.5mm² cable too as it is a better fit in a 13A plug and quite sufficient for your approx 12A load. It is jst possible to fit 2.5mm² in some brands of plug but others are simply not designed for it. As per Midwest, the leg of cable to the immersion heater itself should be heat-resisting, although the one to the plug need not be.

The Neutrik Powercon pair are ideal for the duty. Be sure to use the A-type (blue colour, flex feeds power into unit) and B-type (grey colour, flex takes power out of unit) versions appropriately. There is a new improved version 'Powercon True 1' that is rated to break load and has a backshell that cannot be opened without a tool (a marginal concern with original Powercon in a domestic setting).

I am not sure how you made '12g' into 2mm². I would read '12g' as AWG in which case it's 3.3mm² but if you meant SWG it's 5.4mm².

E2A - as you made a reference to cable gauge, please just confirm you are in the UK as per your profile and the heater is to run on 230V AC?

Lucien, can you give me a hand finding my gin bottle

 

[ndl]

Ah OK, I read it as 2mm² because cable sizes for electrical work are never quoted in millimetres diameter, only CSA, and some people omit the ² for speed. Also very few people in the UK know or use gauge sizes, so any mention of gauge / gage tends to indicate a writer in the US / Far East where 100 or 120V supplies are usual and the heater current double what we have been assuming.

My fault

Would you say using something like this would be more appropriate: http://www.neutrik.com/website/uplo...rio-powercon-true-1-chassis-connector.jpg?v=6 (internal rewiring would be required to incorporate an SSR). The other end of NAC3FX-W would go into mains and the other end on NAC3MX-W to the heating element.

These can accommodate wires in diameter from 1 to 2.5mm². To be on the safe side, I could go for 2mm².

Paul.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

You'd have to cut the link between input line and output line contacts, I would use separate NAC3-FPX and MPX chassis connectors so as to avoid modifying safety-approved products. For 2.8kW load 1.5mm² will be fine, it's what a commercial 3kW product would have. I'd be surprised if you could buy 2.0mm² 3-core mains flex in the UK anyway, most cables of that CSA would be 28/0.30 automotive types for ELV only.

Hey that's weird, where did half my previous post go? It must have been there because it's been quoted. It might be in the same place as the bottle of gin, try looking behind the abracadiodularservosystem...

 

[westward10]

You'd have to cut the link between input line and output line contacts, I would use separate NAC3-FPX and MPX chassis connectors so as to avoid modifying safety-approved products. For 2.8kW load 1.5mm² will be fine, it's what a commercial 3kW product would have. I'd be surprised if you could buy 2.0mm² 3-core mains flex in the UK anyway, most cables of that CSA would be 28/0.30 automotive types for ELV only.

Hey that's weird, where did half my previous post go? It must have been there because it's been quoted. It might be in the same place as the bottle of gin, try looking behind the abracadiodularservosystem...

Think you can unknowingly get 2.0mm mains flex from China

 

[ndl]

Thank you guys for clarifying things I wanted to know. This bit of the whole build is most probably the easiest part as everything else will look kind of like this :

and

and

and

Thanks!

Paul.

 

[Wilko]

Maybe it's just my warped sense of things, but I haven't laughed so much in years. Cheers

 

[ndl]

there is a compilation of this guy as well:

sorry for the off topic.

 

[Silly Sausage]

there is a compilation as well:

I love that guy, total nutter!

 

[LeeH]

I use 1.5 on my home brew 3kW elements. It's sufficient.