Discuss Problem...too much electricity! in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

Floating neutral? Isn't that to do with the Swiss navy?

Have disembowelled the LED thing so I now have a spare screwdriver...and some mercury cells!

Here comes Plan B...

1: Go to Scroofix.

2: Get 1x double switch and 1x single one.

3: Switch off consumer unit.

4: Fit switches, wiring like for like, seeking any strays.

5: Fire up and see.

6: Rejoice in the knowledge that the bits with moving parts are new.

7: Wait for sparky chum to arrive to do planned inspection for holiday accommodation safety.

By the way, the dimmer switch is earthed.

No other changes save for putting 12v LED GU10s in kitchen a while ago.

Talk me down, tower...
Why you may be completely wasting your money on something that is not broke the problem needs to be found first.
 
You underestimate a man of my calibre...
That's .177
my Air Arms TX200 .22 with laser sight trumps your miserable .177 :rolleyes:
 
I'll see your TX200 with the .22 LR Anschutz Supermatch I shoot at the club and I'll raise you the BSA Martini International MK II on which I have a deposit, (FAC-dependent).
 
well if we're getting serious, my WW1 lee enfield .303 beats any .22. :)
 
Well done Doody, I didn't know how far that was going and with that many 'trumps' I tend to exit the room!
 
I just got a new shotgun at the weekend - my gun safe is now full, so I guess I'd better get another for when my FAC comes through
 
'Well if we're getting serious, my WW1 lee enfield .303 beats any .22.

One of my archery club compadres has a short magazine Lee Enfield and a Dublin Castle Brown Bess musket. Bessie's flintlock still sparks but both this and the SMLE are decativated - not sure wallpieces count.

A fellow rifle club member has a Sharps rifle that was made in 1872 (from the serial number). It takes 45 cal cartridges(he rolls his own), 125 grains of black powder = 1,000 yards' range - it's a downspout with a trigger.

Back on topic, I got two switches so I can play tomorrow. Watch this space. I don't feel it's ÂŁ6-odd wasted - the original switches are pushing 3 decades old.
 
OK folks, it's update time.

Some of you can go into smug mode now. I changed the upstairs switch (actually a 2 gang) and little has changed. A neon shows power at one pin in the bulbholder but the bulb remains unlit. Here's the original switch...


As far as I can tell by feel, the bundle of earth-coloured insulting tape contains a chochblock. There appear to be two cables going into the switchbox.

Here's another weirdness.


This is my brand new, shiny 2-gang switch but that common connector (bot right)
is screwed in as far as possible. Screwing it up tight takes only 1.5 turns from fully unscrewed and there's no way it'll grip a wire core. The second switch is exactly the same and the L1 and L2 connectors work fine. It's an MK item and the two will be going back.

In practice, I had to poke the red wire (bent to suit) into the connector hole. Result as above.

Meanwhile, I've called Charles the Sparky and asked him to arrive equipped.

It's all rather odd and it isn't rocket surgery, is it?

SWITCH1.jpg

SWITCH2.jpg
 
The existing switch is a 1 gang 1 way switch however the new switch is a 2 gang 2 way which if I correct of your post is a incorrect switch. Unless and forgive me if I've mist something posted here but you are changing this switch is this the cause of the light not working ?
 
Thank you Anthony,

You're quite right and the erroneous bit is my doing. I bought two 2-gang switches, not realising the upstairs one is 1-gang.

I'm changing the switch because the stair head light stopped working. It wasn't the bulb and an LRD probe showed both lampholder pins had current, as did the earth.
A neon now shows that on pin in the lampholder has power but there's still no light (I tried two bulbs).
 
@davhill

I believe most MK accessories come with the screws undone ready to just be tightened up.

They are manufactured in a manner so the screws don't shake out during transport, but this has the effect that quite substantial force can be required to tighten them past their original as shipped positions. So you may need to give them (technical term coming up) a bit of welly!
 
Good advice, Sparkychick! I found a really well fitting screwdriver and ran the screws fully in and out with it. It took quie a bit of thrutch (Derbyshire word) to achieve this.
It would appear there's some sort of threadlock compound on the threads.
 
Good advice, Sparkychick! I found a really well fitting screwdriver and ran the screws fully in and out with it. It took quie a bit of thrutch (Derbyshire word) to achieve this.
It would appear there's some sort of threadlock compound on the threads.

I am familiar with the term thrutch although I wasn't aware that it's from Derbyshire (I'm from Leicestershire originally). I was introduced to the word listening to Blaster Bates :)

And glad I could assist.
 
I am familiar with the term thrutch although I wasn't aware that it's from Derbyshire (I'm from Leicestershire originally). I was introduced to the word listening to Blaster Bates :)

And glad I could assist.
bloody'ell. i've still got a couple of blaster's LPs.
 
Blaster is a legend. I wish they'd re-release all his LPs, not strictly PC but a bloody good laugh :)
 

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