Discuss PVC Door alarm contacts in the Security Alarms, Door Entry and CCTV (Public) area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi Guys, Burglar alarm question regarding fitting surface door contacts onto PVC doors. I've fitted a few surface standard everyday type contacts on timber doors and PVC doors before. The doors when in the closed position have been flush with the door frame. Therefor,the contacts are side by side with minimal distance between the two. I have a job to do, whereby the door is actually proud of the door frame when closed. It would appear I require something like a deep stand off contact on the door frame to line up with door contact.
Hope makes sense, I'm sure it's an everyday problem for those in the industry. Any pointers please?
 
what i usually do is fit the magnet to the top of the door, not the vertical, then align the contact to suit. alternative is to stand the contact off the frame on a piece if 16mm mini-trunking.
 
what i usually do is fit the magnet to the top of the door, not the vertical, then align the contact to suit. alternative is to stand the contact off the frame on a piece if 16mm mini-trunking.

Just been trying to Google other peoples QA. Yes I'm thinking somehow stand it off. I'm thinking that there must be a product on the market for an everyday problem
 
Not to long ago, I had some composite doors fitted to front and back. Got Mrs to ask the manufactures (not the installers) if they would drill holes in the frame and door whilst being manufactured for those pencil type door contacts. They said NO! If I was at home I would of said OK, no order for you.
I know it's not a good idea to drill yourself re warranties etc. I've heard of some horrendous stories on here and elsewhere when electricians etc have drilled holes and messed up costing loads of dosh!
 
what i usually do is fit the magnet to the top of the door, not the vertical, then align the contact to suit. alternative is to stand the contact off the frame on a piece if 16mm mini-trunking.
we do the same as tel, fit to the very top, put some paper between them when you fix the second one so they dont bang against each other

(surely the secure side of the door would be the one that isnt proud usually, thats the case with out door access anyway)
 
The magnet does not have to be side by side with the contact.......fit the magnet on top of the protruding door section, so it is srewed from the top of the door...then fit the contact to the frame were this is screwed on straight on. Hope this makes sense
 
The magnet does not have to be side by side with the contact.......fit the magnet on top of the protruding door section, so it is srewed from the top of the door...then fit the contact to the frame were this is screwed on straight on. Hope this makes sense

errmmm trying to picture what you mean. are we talking about bog standard surface door contacts? Do you mean that the actual door contact fit onto the top of the door ie the narrow part depth of door?
 
errmmm trying to picture what you mean. are we talking about bog standard surface door contacts? Do you mean that the actual door contact fit onto the top of the door ie the narrow part depth of door?
the one with the cable goes on the frame and the one thats just a magnet goes on the door

we are talking normal rectangle door contacts here
 
errmmm trying to picture what you mean. are we talking about bog standard surface door contacts? Do you mean that the actual door contact fit onto the top of the door ie the narrow part depth of door?

fit magnet to the top face of the door, usually 10mm wide, so magnet just fits. if the door opens outwards, you can't use this method. then you'd fit the contact to the bottom horizontal surface of the door frame, as the contact has to be inside the door when closed.
 
fit magnet to the top face of the door, usually 10mm wide, so magnet just fits. if the door opens outwards, you can't use this method. then you'd fit the contact to the bottom horizontal surface of the door frame, as the contact has to be inside the door when closed.

Good point made there, but yes it opens inwards, so all OK there
 
I had this issue on a rewire a few months ago, i connected my continuity meter up at the alarm panel and tested if the magnet was making contact even though the contacts weren't perfectly level. It did.

The alarms been operational for 6 months and they haven't had any nuisance tripping. Might save you some time and arseing about.
 
I had this issue on a rewire a few months ago, i connected my continuity meter up at the alarm panel and tested if the magnet was making contact even though the contacts weren't perfectly level. It did.

The alarms been operational for 6 months and they haven't had any nuisance tripping. Might save you some time and arseing about.
hold them together in the same position they would be on the door.

if you can feel the magnet pushing/pulling on the other one then it will be fine
 
thecontact allows a separation distance from magnet of up to 10mm. so a 5mm gap is ideal. going back to OP, fit like this, but with a clearance gap

DSC_0109.jpg

a picture tells a thousand words, but it can't read!!!

could equally be fitted to side or at bottom of door. whatever makes the aesthetically most pleasing.
 
thecontact allows a separation distance from magnet of up to 10mm. so a 5mm gap is ideal. going back to OP, fit like this, but with a clearance gap

View attachment 27475
bassically a gap like this is ideal, crap alarm though

f4bb3ef077aff592eceaf07669993107.jpg
 
TBH, i'd prefer to fit a shock sensor to the frame.
 
is that one of those stand-alone squeakers? about as useful as a fart in a thunderstorm.
 

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