Discuss [Q] Potentiometer for controlling audio volume in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

It's in post 7 Tazz:
Exactly... feeding the amplifier(s) from the audio line.
One of the amps is built into some stereo speakers
.
The other is in some wireless headphones.

I haven't followed the links because my internet connection is a piece of wet string that takes 5 minutes to load a page, but I can take a punt on the input specs of those items because most consumer products have similar specs to ensure compatibility.

I would also say that in my 25 years experience designing and building professional audio gear, I have hardly ever met a situation where a 10k pot didn't work tolerably well as an unbalanced line level volume control in solid-state equipment. Not always the best, but it will work. Here, I've suggested 1k, elsewhere I might say 47k, but they will all usually work. Valve equipment is different, impedances are higher, 100k - 1MΩ will tend to be more suitable. But I guess it's not a valve laptop.
 
So Lucien....how many line outputs are you feeding....are you going to use a line pre amp and mixer to feed the unknown amount of outputs....will all the said amount of inputs be the same impedance ...?
 
Unless I've misread it, the OP wants to feed only one device, either the speakers or the phones, at a time. I don't know where you are seeing that there are many destinations in parallel.
 
Exactly.....no mention of how many...nor information...A diagram might help us all...???????
This is just a total guessing game.....give the info, or forget wasting our time
 
Unless I've misread it, the OP wants to feed only one device, either the speakers or the phones, at a time. I don't know where you are seeing that there are many destinations in parallel.

Thank you Lucien. You seem to understand my question perfectly.

As you say, consumer line level seems very standardised and the required spec of the pot will not vary much. I have taken your advice (which mirrors other sites) and ordered a 10k pot. I will let you know the outcome.

Exactly.....no mention of how many...nor information...A diagram might help us all...???????
This is just a total guessing game.....give the info, or forget wasting our time

Tazz I believe I have described my setup in it's entirety already.

PC line level output >>> POT >>> pc speakers OR headphones (controlled via 3PDT switch).
All of this will be connected via 1/8 jacks.
I have included the exact details of the speakers, headphones and switch via links.

What other details do you require? If I am being slow, I apologise. Repeating the question and getting hostile is a poor way to go about things. A smarter man might try rephrasing the question.

Tazz, the concept of forums is that people making positive contributions when they can. No one is forcing you to waste your time. You can leave the discussion to more contributing members. As you are a moderator I am surprised by your attitude.
 
Just a suggestion, forget the pot and control the levels via your pc and switch between speakers and cans via a switched jack socket?

HTH...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry you feel that way, but you post is basic with no explanation on what you are trying to achieve, all we know is you want to connect speakers and headphones to a pc....how may, why and what for is anyones guess.
 
Tazz why are you treating the OP like this? You are a moderator and should know better. He has said what he is trying to do. It is a not a full blown PA system so why try and over-complicate it. Well done Lucien for a decent answer. Daz
 
Just a suggestion, forget the pot and control the levels via your pc and switch between speakers and cans via a switched jack socket?

I did think of using Windows for level control but I often turn off the monitor while doing paper based work which makes this awkward. Also I have ordered the bits. If I don't get a good result with the pot this may be exactly what I do. Thanks for the suggestion!

Tazz why are you treating the OP like this? You are a moderator and should know better. He has said what he is trying to do. It is a not a full blown PA system so why try and over-complicate it. Well done Lucien for a decent answer. Daz

This is my first thread in this forum. My voice is small but "DPG for moderator!"
 
A lot of people get put off by the very frosty responses they get
 
I did think of using Windows for level control but I often turn off the monitor while doing paper based work which makes this awkward. Also I have ordered the bits. If I don't get a good result with the pot this may be exactly what I do. Thanks for the suggestion!

Are you looking to make a small enclosure to sit by your pc and adjust the level there? If so, think about using 1/4 inch
jacks and 'made-up' leads/adapters, much less fiddly soldering wise...
 
I did think of using Windows for level control but I often turn off the monitor while doing paper based work which makes this awkward. Also I have ordered the bits. If I don't get a good result with the pot this may be exactly what I do. Thanks for the suggestion!

Are you looking to make a small enclosure to sit by your pc and adjust the level there? If so, think about using 1/4 inch
jacks and 'made-up' leads/adapters, much less fiddly soldering wise...

Don't forget the small jacks are 1/8" rather than 1/4". Daz
 
Exactly... a small enclosure is already in the post!

I am hoping to mount it via a 35mm tube clamp to my monitor stand and maintain precious desk space.

The idea is to have just an output switch and a volume control on the front of the box.

Bearing in mind the boxes planned positioning I am going for the smaller 1/8 over 1/4 components.

As a dental student I like to think I can handle the fiddliness. Although i've just jinxed myself horribly! :p
 
Exactly... a small enclosure is already in the post!

I am hoping to mount it via a 35mm tube clamp to my monitor stand and maintain precious desk space.

The idea is to have just an output switch and a volume control on the front of the box.

Bearing in mind the boxes planned positioning I am going for the smaller 1/8 over 1/4 components.

As a dental student I like to think I can handle the fiddliness. Although i've just jinxed myself horribly! :p

Sorry premature posting, hope it works out :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry I haven't read through all the posts in this thread, but many other people have overcome the same problem without having to resort to soldering components together in adaptable boxes.
Personally I have an old disco mixer on top of my CPU which allows me to switch between or mix the audio signal from my PC or TV to play through speakers, or listen through headphones, or both.
Alternatively, unless I've missed something, most PC speakers come with a headphone output.
 

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