Discuss RCD Tripping on RCD 2 side NOT RCD 1 side in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi Folks;

Installed a cooker (oven only) in a property on 6mm T+E, tests fine, but RCD keeps tripping out when connected.

If I connect on RCD1 side it’s fine but if it is moved to RCD2 side it trips out constantly.

Any thoughts are appreciated? Thank you.
 
RCD2 may be near its tripping threshold already from other connected loads, or there may be an existing N-E fault on another circuit.
 
Thank you.

I have RCD1 Ring 32, Lights 6, Smoke Alarm 6,

RCD 2 Ring 32, Central Heating 16, Lights 6, cooker 50, Radial Socket on 16 (customer request as renovating kitchen in 3 months)
 
I assume it is an electric oven.

:

1. Does the RCD trip if all control knobs are at the off position and you then energise the cooker circuit?

2. Does the RCD trip if all control knobs are off, you energise the cooker circuit and then you turn on one of the control knobs for convection oven, fan oven or grill?

3. Does RCD2 trip if all other mcbs it supplies are off and then you energise the oven? And then turn on the control knobs?

3. Does RCD2 trip if all other circuits it supplies have their L and N disconnected and then you energise the oven? And then turn on the control knobs?

Is it a new oven? What the earthing system? What is state of EP bonding?
 
Hi Folks;

Installed a cooker (oven only) in a property on 6mm T+E, tests fine, but RCD keeps tripping out when connected.

If I connect on RCD1 side it’s fine but if it is moved to RCD2 side it trips out constantly.

Any thoughts are appreciated? Thank you.
Just a thought I have a council house and the council put the smoke on a mcb not on rcd having just looked up on internet aswell
Hi Folks;

Installed a cooker (oven only) in a property on 6mm T+E, tests fine, but RCD keeps tripping out when connected.

If I connect on RCD1 side it’s fine but if it is moved to RCD2 side it trips out constantly.

Any thoughts are appreciated? Thank you.
Just a thought try diconecting your smoke from rcd safely see what happens I read this quite a few times now on internet due to other circuits been on same side as the rcd or even on the other side noted in my house the council have 1 lighting circuit and 1 smoke not on rcd ???? On mcb s
 
Hi Folks;

Installed a cooker (oven only) in a property on 6mm T+E, tests fine, but RCD keeps tripping out when connected.

If I connect on RCD1 side it’s fine but if it is moved to RCD2 side it trips out constantly.

Any thoughts are appreciated? Thank you.
When you swapped the cooker Live from 1 RCD to another, did you also swap the Neutrals from the cooker to the correct RCD N bar in the CU?
 
What I have read about and seen at my brother-in-law's home is that new oven's often have this RCD trip problem, and also ovens which have not been used for some time or cleaned. There is earth leakage because the material around the electric heating element absorbs moisture. The trick is first to confirm the oven is earthed and then supply it via its mcb fed temporarily from ahead of the RCD. Run all the elements for 20 minutes to thoroughly dry them and then connect back to the RCD2 busbar.

PS: Which jogs my memory about MICC cable - in the old days (may be now too) a low voltage high current was sometimes passed through the MICC conductors to warm them over a few hours to dry out the insulating mineral material.
 
Last edited:
What I have read about and seen at my brother-in-law's home is that new oven's often have this RCD trip problem, and also ovens which have not been used for some time or cleaned. There is earth leakage because the material around the electric heating element absorbs moisture. The trick is first to confirm the oven is earthed and then supply it via its mcb fed temporarily from ahead of the RCD. Run all the elements for 20 minutes to thoroughly dry them and then connect back to the RCD2 busbar.

PS: Which jogs my memory about MICC cable - in the old days (may be now too) a low voltage high current was sometimes passed through the MICC conductors to warm them over a few hours to dry out the insulating mineral material.
Or you could just check that the L and N feeding the cooker circuit are correctly connected see post10
 
Re #12: My # 11 in no way obviates the sensible visual checks you describe, rather it provides some more advice on what to try next if #10 checks (and earlier advice) indicate all is correct.
 
Re #12: My # 11 in no way obviates the sensible visual checks you describe, rather it provides some more advice on what to try next if #10 checks (and earlier advice) indicate all is correct.
Point taken
 

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